martinh55

I'm just changing my spark plugs. Had a search about and read Through a few guilds on here. No body seems to mention a torque setting for the new plugs. I found on 350z tech that is bitween 15 and 21ft-pounds. Does this sound right? Also I'm fitting ngk laser platinum spark plugs so I assume they are pre gapped already?

Thanks for the help in advanced because in balls deep in the engine bay! Haha

I personally prefer the OEM inboard springs setup.

It works, and have a lot less thing to worry about such as turret reinforcement.

 

The only reason from what I hear of a "true" coilovers is if you are going to replace all the rear arms with adjustable arms.

That way you have a stronger arms controlling the toe, which mean it won't lose it's spec as easy as the OEM bolt.

 

I still prefer the OEM design, but then at least I can understand why they would want that if it is primary a drift car.

Just giving both side of the story.

 

Jerrick

I am planning on putting adjustable rear camber and traction/ toe arms on at the same time as coilovers. So am I right in thinking I need to run a true coilover set up at the rear to do this? So if I fit In bound rear springs set up I can't fit the adjustable arms?

There isnt really a great deal of difference in the prices. Is there any advantage of having the rear as a full coil over set up in comparison with an rear on board spring? The car is more for drift/ track than a long journey daily. Does the monopro vastly perform better than the dual tech set up?

thanks

martin

Yeah I've been running a welded diff for over a year now with just shy of 500hp and no breakages as I heard they could split the diff case and break drives shafts etc but nothing yet. It is pretty brutal tbh for daily driving but you get used to it. Just make sure your other bushes are ok or you probably will start breaking things. I've destroyed a gearbox and a good clutch but the diffs still soldiering on haha

When you say brutal do you mean it makes the car a bit of a handful?

500hp and a paddle clutch? Could this have been what killed the gear box?

I ran a welder for 2 years on mine as a daily, never had any issues, supposedly hard mounting the diff is what causes so many breakages. Had regular track sessions too, I toasted two clutches in that time, no diffs or shafts

 

Great news then. When you say hard mounting the diff you mean solid diff mounts, so just stick to the stock rubber diff mounts when running a welder? Also how low are you running the car?

cheers

 

Yeah, leave the rubber mounts I'd say. I had BC coilovers and the rears were as low as they'd go down.

 

looking good nice duck tail spoiler.

I cant run that low due to my drive i can probably got 10mm lower than stock at the front and probably match the rears to have the car sitting level.

Is there any think linked to how low the car sits to the stress the welded diff puts on the half shafts??

I have one for sale if anyone wants. Came on my Z and wasn't for me so changed it but had some fun with it while it was still fitted.

where are you based and how much? am i right in assuming the diff is still in the pumpkin

If your going to bin it then give me a heads up im a dab hand with the old cable ties!

Due to using my 350 for drifting/ track use i would like to disable the srs system completely. I don't fancy air bags being deployed should i stuck it in to a Tyre wall or get a bit overzealous chasing a fellow drifter down. I'm full aware of the risks of not having a airbag.

Having to repair/ replace panels is bad enough with out having to deal with the airbag can of worms on top of that should they get set off.

I'm not too fused about airbag lights on the dash. Ideally i would like to be able to rest it for MOTs ect. But like most bods i know a guy who knows a guy

cheers martin

i have search google for hours and cant find jack on it!

pull the 50amp VDC fuse kills abs tcs and stability control. Nothink worse than being sideways and trying to use your brakes and they do naff all

I ran a welder for 2 years on mine as a daily, never had any issues, supposedly hard mounting the diff is what causes so many breakages. Had regular track sessions too, I toasted two clutches in that time, no diffs or shafts

Great news then. When you say hard mounting the diff you mean solid diff mounts, so just stick to the stock rubber diff mounts when running a welder? Also how low are you running the car?

cheers

Right i know the hate on a welded diff in a 350 is most probably very strong! But who's managed to run a welder without eating a drive shaft or diff for a considerable amount of time?

Im using my z for drifting i have always drifted a welder before. But i wasnt drifting in a 350. I will be doing a drift day in jan on the stock vlsd as the car is bone stock at the moment. I will just be running an alloy rad and tein tie rods and lock spacers with the lock stop removed.

The plan would be to run coil overs, rear adjustable arms and solid diff mounts for when/ if a welder is ago a head.

Cheers

Martin

Thanks for the welcome.

I did some research from what i found on 350z tech that pulling the 50amp vdc fuse will kill the abs and traction in one go. So will test it at the weekend.

Hi Im the new guy.

Just purchased a 350z. Purely for a weekend drifter. The MK1 MX5 was lacking power and after 18 months of skidding it i upgraded. Much to the excitement of lad i go to drift days with!

Got a 53 plate gun metal grey full gt pack for just under 4k with just over 100k on the clock, happy days.

I apologize for any regularly asked questions. I will try the search bar before posting. But i know there is some how to totally is disable the abs & traction control questions coming up! As i have read many 350z drift car build threads and people always glaze over these details!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Martin