350_Jer

1. andy james
2. Adrian @ TORQEN

3.ShortPaul

4.Ben350

5. Rhysos 

6. 350_Jer

Parts still for sale and open to offers

On 09/11/2023 at 15:55, davey_83 said:

My first year with my Z found Hastings the cheapest. 

Same here

Throttle controller sold, let me know if you want to offer on any of the other bits

Induction kit sold

Selling these parts, mainly bits I didn't need from the bundle of parts I bought when I supercharged my Z. Can post if need to, or collection from near J19 on M5. Open to near offers on the prices

Stillen engine damper, brand new in box, £90

Mishimoto induction kit, bit of surface rust/scratches but all complete, £100

Drive belt for (I think) Rev-up Vortech conversion, brand new, £15

AAM sump spacer kit, brand new, £90

Double DIN fitting kit, with Kenwood apapter and steering wheel control, £40

Vortech Rev-Up supercharger bracket, comes with everything in the pic, not quite complete, missing a couple of parts, new never fitted £500

D1 throttle controller, new, never fitted £50

Stillen oil cooler bracket with fittings, £15

I've got one similar to this

Fits really well, but not got it connected to the screen just yet

Do the Helmz pipes lower the db at all Coz, or are they more about altering the tone of the exhaust note?

Filter sold, throttle controller still available

PM on it's way

Been looking at both of these gearshifters, is the CAE worth the (large) difference in price over the Coolerworx? Coolerworx seem to have good reviews from what I can see?

Was a brilliant day, best show I've been to for a long time Thanks for organising the stand Andy

Anyone got a pair of rear Rays 18" wheels they want to sell? For a track car so don't need to be mint, just straight with no cracks. I've asked Zmanalex but he's not got any in at the moment. Near Bristol or able to post, Thanks

Had another go at this the other day, and it worked first time!

Here's a good explanation of the method I found in the link that Stu posted above in case it helps anyone else out:

Quote

Car MUST be unlocked either with a functioning key fob or by switching the ignition on to defeat the alarm via onboard transponder using the key fob you need to program. Then leave that key in the ignition.

 

BOTH doors must be unlocked, either by blipping the unlock button twice or reaching over and unlocking the passenger side manually.

 

Then do the ignition switch LOCK to ON and back trick six times in ten seconds - the ignition will be OFF at the end of the sequence.

 

Leave the key in the ignition, the indicators WILL flash twice. If they don't you aren't in Register Mode. Take the key out, lock and unlock the car, set the alarm off, turn on the ignition, unlock the passenger door.

 

Start again. Don't despair.

 

After the indicators have flashed twice ( or you hear the relay click twice if it's daylight ) press AND HOLD the UNLOCK button on the keyfob, press and release the LOCK button three times THEN ( and ONLY then ) release the UNLOCK button.

 

It doesn't always work first time!

 

If you DON'T see/hear the indicators flash once, simply start again from press and hold, there's no need to go right back to square one.

 

When you eventually DO see the single flash, you've programmed your key fob 😀

You have also UNPROGRAMMED any other keyfob you might have...👿

 

REMOVE the key you have just programmed from the ignition - DO NOT switch the ignition on or move the key from the O/LOCK position.

 

Put your next key into the ignition, DO NOT turn the ignition on ( as that would restart the registration process and unregister the keyfob you've just registered! ) simply do the HOLD/PRESS X 3/RELEASE routine as often as you need to to see the single flash that confirms that your second keyfob has been accepted.

 

THEN switch the ignition on with the last key you programmed.

 

You WILL see two indicator flashes if you have succeeded.

 

If you don't, or all the keys don't work when you try them, then it's back to the top of the page 😕

Mines a UK one, that's the other method I printed out and tried before I found out it was for a JDM! Thanks for the reply though

Think I know where I'm going wrong, I haven't left the key in the ignition after turning it on to cancel the alarm before I start the programming procedure. Got home late today so will give it try tomorrow if I'm home earlier.

Forgot about these, I've still got them!

Any offers?

Thanks for the reply

Yes that's one of the methods that I found online, I haven't managed to get it into programming mode yet where the indicators flash twice, so guess my speed on the key turning is at fault!

I'll have another try tomorrow, and will double check the batteries in the fobs although I was very careful when replacing them.

Evening all, I'm just sorting the last bits on my car after it's been off the road for a couple of years.

As the battery was disconnected, both my keyfobs have lost their link with my car.

I've put a new battery in each, and tried both the re-programming procedures that have been linked to on here, one is where you start off by putting the key in and out the ignition barrel 6 times, and the other starts where you turn from lock to on 6 times and I can't get either to work.

Is there another method to try before I call in a mobile locksmith to re-program for me? I can use the key to lock the car, but when I unlock it and open the door, the alarm goes off, which then stops once the ignition is turned on. Car starts fine so immobiliser is still working, just can't lock and unlock with either fob.

Thanks

(55 plate DE)

Anyone else booked track time?

1. andy James Paid

2. Andrew_Muxlow Paid.

3.martin harry  Paid

4. Callum Stocker Paid
5. SHEZZA Paid
6. Azurez33 paid 

7. Justthejedi paid
8. Monkey1983 - Paid

9. 350_Jer - Paid

I'm up for this

1. andy james 

2. Monkey1983

3. Azurez33

4. Humpy

5. ShortPaul

6. SHEZZA

7, Andy_Muxlow

8. JustTheJedi

9. Liam Hopson

10. 350_Jer

Prices reduced

Hi, just got your PM

Hi, yes it's still available, will send you a PM

Any offers before ebay?