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MLCMK

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Everything posted by MLCMK

  1. Oops, old habit! Looks like I was lucky then not to damage them. Thanks for the advice, won't be doing that again 😀
  2. They were pretty much clean when removed them but as they were out I gave them a gentle brush with a small wire brush (it's about the size of a toothbrush) to move any deposits on the tip then used some fuel injector cleaner to clean the end and remove any particles of dirt etc). Once they had dried I checked the gap and then put them back in the engine.
  3. Hi all Just an update to this thread Over the weekend I have done the following : 1. Cleaned and oiled the pop filter 2. Spark plugs removed (NGK Iridium) , cleaned and re-fitted (all plugs in good condition so no need to replace at the moment) (great how to guide on the forum, http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/3690-how-to-spark-plug-change-vq35de/page__hl__sparkplug ) Car taken out for a drive to warm everything up 1. ECU reset performed 2. Accelerator Pedal Release Position 3. Throttle Valve closed Position 4. Idle Air Volume Not convinced it's made much difference to the exhaust smell but the car definitely drives a bit better, more acceleration Thanks for all on here who helped with advice etc J
  4. Welcome Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Amazing car, nice one! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. I've had the car about 6 weeks so I don't know when it was cleaned before, do you think from the photo it needs a clean? I wasn't sure..... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk I would give air filter a good clean, at least you can rule that out then. You're right, it will be good to rule it out and to know what it looks like when clean, another job for the weekend then :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. I've had the car about 6 weeks so I don't know when it was cleaned before, do you think from the photo it needs a clean? I wasn't sure..... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. I was concerned about this also but the tape is pretty much odourless (didn't smell it all during the fitting) and if it gets to be a problem then it will be a weekend taking it off in the summer and replacing it with dynamat. I wasn't sure how much difference it would make but I'm very impressed with the sound deadening so went for the cheap option first to make sure it worked I'd read on the web the issues with some flashing tape so went for one that was marketed as odourless (time will tell 😉) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Just saw a white 350z with a black bonnet stripe on Chaffron way MK. Both stuck in slow moving traffic on opposite sides of the road but fair play for waving back while drinking out of a can 😀 Very nice looking Zed Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Spent some time over the weekend reducing the exhaust sound inside the car (at the request of the wife). Working on a budget so covered the boot floor with Wickes Flashing tape and then bought some camping mats from go outdoors, cut them to shape and fitted them under the boot carpet. Can't believe how much difference it's made :-). Road noise reduced, Boom from the exhaust at 60mph about half what it was before Rattle from the boot gone. All in, the materials were £30 so big result with minimal outlay Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Ran some cataclean through it today, no issues seen so I'll keep an eye on it and suspect some cats will be required at some point in the future Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Welcome , nice looking car 😀 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. Just been out for a long run in the car, the intake temp rises when the car is stationary (I saw it go to 49 degrees at the McD's drive through) but as soon as I'm moving again it quickly dropped to 14 degrees C (7 degrees above the ambient temp at the moment) and stayed steady all the time I was driving so I don't think the MAF is the issue. Anyone got any ideas what I need to check next? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. I just took a look at the sensor and to me it looks really clean so I'm not sure if it will need it (I was expecting to see something with dust and oil over it but it's shiny) Can anyone who's seen a dirty one of the these comment? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Thank you SuperStu, I will search around for the guide and take a look at how tricky it is.
  16. I also took another set of readings back on the driveway to see how the intake temperature looked, these are below Coolant Temp Degrees C = 88 S.T Fuel Trim B1 % = -3.9 L.T Fuel Trim B1 % = 3.1 S.T Fuel Trim B2 % = -4.7 L.T Fuel Trim B2 % = 3.2 Engine Speed RPM = 650 Intake Temp degrees C = 50!!!!!!! (the sun is out in Milton Keynes but not to this extent ;-) ) Mass Air Flow g/s = 2.91 Throttle Position %= 0.4 O2S B1,S1 V = 0.285 O2S B1, S1 STF % = -3.9 O2S B1,S2 V = 0.520 O2S B1, S2 STF % = 99.2 O2S B2,S1 V = 0.560 O2S B2, S1 STF % = -4.7 O2S B2,S2 V = 0.70 O2S B2, S2 STF % = 99.2 So by the looks of things the first thing to investigate is the high reading on the Intake Temp but any other assistance would be great! Thanks J
  17. To check the Mass Flow Sensor I just took the car out, pulled away from stationary in 2nd and accelerated until it hit the rev limiter. Graph of this is above. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  18. Thanks for your help both :-) Here are some more data points I have just taken 1. At start up (literally just after the engine starts) Coolant Temp degrees C = 13 S.T Fuel Trim B1 % = -10.2 L.T Fuel Trim B1 % = 6.2 S.T Fuel Trim B2 % = -10.2 L.T Fuel Trim B2 % = 7.0 Engine Speed RPM = 1262 Intake Air Temp degrees C = 14 Mass Air Flow g/s = 9.09 2. I then took the car out for a quick run (5 minutes) and sat at a bus stop and rev'd the car to approx 2,500 rpm and read the readings below Coolant Temp degrees C = 82 S.T Fuel Trim B1 % = -3.2 L.T Fuel Trim B1 % = 7.0 S.T Fuel Trim B2 % = -0.8 L.T Fuel Trim B2 % = 8.6 Engine Speed RPM = 2550 Intake Air Temp degrees C = 16 Mass Air Flow g/s = 11.21 3. The readings below where then taken when I'm parked back on the drive with the engine ticking over Coolant Temp degrees C = 88 S.T Fuel Trim B1 % = -5.5 L.T Fuel Trim B1 % = 3.1 S.T Fuel Trim B2 % = -6.3 L.T Fuel Trim B2 % = 3.1 Engine Speed RPM = 662 Intake Air Temp degrees C = 26 Mass Air Flow g/s = 3.00 The intake air temp seems very different from yesterday when the car had been driven for approx 30 minutes.........
  19. Mine did that briefly, then went back to normal after a MAF clean. Does this mean that I need to do a MAF clean then, I've read about that on this forum
  20. Unfortunately none were shown (I thought the pedal dance had cleared them?)
  21. Re-posted in the 350Z Technical forum Hi all Have a bit of a problem with my 53 Plate 350Z, 83,000 miles on the clock. Its fitted with a pop charger and Cobra exhaust from the Y pipe backwards. The car doesn't noticeably smoke at idle or high revs and seems to drive ok. A couple of weeks ago the orange check engine light was on so i did the pedal dance and managed to clear it first time, the car drove fine but last week but then the light came back on under high revs and didn't clear. Over the past week I've noticed a slight smell of fuel when parked up on the drive so I bought a OBD II wifi plug and connected it up this evening after the car had been out for a 30 min run. At tick over while back on the drive, I got the readings below that I hope someone on here can make sense of :-) S.T Fuel Trim B1 % = 3.9 L.T Fuel Trim B1 % = 3.1 S.T Fuel Trim B2 % = 1.6 L.T Fuel Trim B2 % = 3.1 Intake Air Temp degrees C = 62 Mass Air Flow g/s = 3.08 Throttle Position % = 0.4 O2S Location = O2S11 O2S B1,S1 V = 0.280 O2S B1, S1 STF % = 3.1 O2S B1,S2 V = 0.280 O2S B1, S2 STF % = 99.2 O2S B2,S1 V = 0.560 O2S B2, S1 STF % = 2.3 O2S B2,S2 V = 0.310 O2S B2, S2 STF % = 99.2 I'm guessing that the 99.2% values on both banks are indicative of an issue but I don't know where to start. Any advice greatly appreciated Cheers J
  22. Thought I would add some first impressions on the product, it was delivered today at lunchtime and its very easy to use :-) I tried a couple of free iPad apps, best one IMO was iOBD2 (green engine icon with a spanner on it and "CHECK" down at the bottom) Here's how it works. Plug it in with ignition switched off (fits under the dash near the bonnet release button) Turn ignition to the on position Go to the settings on the iPad and look for the WIFI network associated with the OBD reader and connect to it Open the app, click on settings and under hardware select "ELM327" Under Connection select "WIFI" Under Vehicle model enter the year, model, engine size and fuel Thats it done, it connected first time I then went to "Diagnostic", put a tick by everything I wanted to monitor and it pulled in all the details (these can also be saved.) There is also a function to show a graph of one particular thing you want to monitor for a period of time and you can read any error codes from the OBD and reset the orange engine light on the dashboard if you need to. Thanks for reading J
  23. Even cheaper 😀, can you let me know the model number? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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