blunderus

For those interested to know. 5 cylinders show 70-90 psi first beat and 205-210 psi on 8th beat. Cylinder with rod knock showing 60 psi first beat and 185 psi on 8th beat. Strip down starts from now.

I believe I have identified the cause of my engine woes. I have removed my lower sump and in it I found what appears to be a piece of oil galley gasket! I believe this would have dropped oil pressure hence the rod bearing failure and I am pretty sure this would have been causing my lumpy idle also.

Okay gents. Thanks for the input. I will be testing some point tomorrow so will let you know the readings i get.

I was thinking that without engine spark just before tdc to keep the rod pressed against the crank the upward momentum of the crank would throw the rod up closing the gap on the underside of the crank. That would allow the piston to lift higher increasing compression. I was assuming this is one of the reasons rod knock sounds worse with ht lead removed? Not sure though. That was just my theory.

Hi all Just wanted to ask a couple of question of those with knowledge where mine ends. This is a long story but I will try and condense as much as poss. Right, I have a 370z 2011 with 68k miles on the clock. I have owned it since new so just over 7 years. It is totally stock and always serviced at main dealer. It has rod knock! Big end bearing is non existent. I have taken engine and gearbox out myself and stripped all the Gubbins off etc. I am going to compression test it on the bench before I strip the motor using battery and starter motor. I am doing compression test as there appears to be more issues i will get to shortly. First question. Will I see a difference on compression on the cylinder with rod knock and if so higher or lower? I was thinking high as the play would allow the piston to lift higher on the compression stroke? On to the other issues. Related possibly? This all started with one of my catalysts falling apart whilst driving home one evening, puff of blue smoke and lose of power. The Off side cat was in a multitude of bits. I replaced the cat, as Nissan wanted 1200 quid, assuming that would be job done. Once the horrendously loud Cat rattle was gone it became obvious there was more to it. Still no power and obvious rod knock noise. For a few months previous I was have a lot of engine flooding issues and low hunting idle. Car wouldn't have flooding for a couple of weeks then the next 4 or 5 starts it would be flooded even after long drives and I would have to plant the throttle to fire up! Lumpy idle was pretty constant. No engine warning lights and Nissan failed to find the issue. When removing engine the plugs on the off side appeared fouled with, I believe, fuel. Further info. Destroyed cat and fouled plug on off side bank. Cylinder with rod knock on near side but plugs nearside looked spot on! Thoughts ???!!!???

Drove the car on an 80 mile round trip last night at 70mph cruise and no major issue. However drove across town to work this morning and the fine vibration I'm getting off the gas seems to be worse. It is especially noticeable between 3500 and 3000 rpm when lifting off the gas in second or third gear. Are the propshaft UJ's replaceable and what about the bearings in the LSD?

I'll keep that in mind zman. Anyone know at what service interval the diff oil should be changed?

Had the the car back for nissan today. Does this sound odd or is it just me. Bearing in mind they have had the car 2 days this is what they said. " The joint from the propshaft into the diff was stiff, nearly seized so we have freed it up and rotated the propshaft 180 degrees because it could be causing an imbalance. also the oil in the diff was very black but no swarf was present so we have changed the diff oil. Customer to monitor. " They have put 60 miles on the car, removed and rotated the propshaft and replaced the diff oil. Total cost including VAT? £91 (ninety one) What I can say is what ever they have done, the car feels twice as bad as it did before off the gas in town traffic! Time for a long run after rush hour tonight I think.

Yeah I know hence the fuse pull. Bring back my 200sx no TC to worry about in the first place

The fault would have been present with the TC/ESP switched off as that's the first thing I do every time I get in and drive. ESP/TC is way way way too intrusive for my liking on the Z. If I get it in the future I'll pull the fuse and try that.

Would the speed sensor cause a specific issue with the brake its related to or would the whole ABS system go into melt down?

Hey all thanks for the input. Took the car into nissan today. Without going into a story of how useless most main dealers are the story is as follows so far. Mechanic took car for a drive and replicated the fault but had no clue what would cause the problem. Head technician/mechanic then also took the car out and replicated the fault and said "I have never felt anything like it before!". So they have kept the car for another day to do "more extensive tests" I'll keep you posted with the out come tomorrow.

Nissan said the same to me that there was lots of brake dust build up etc. Only had the discs and pads change on all four corners two weeks ago. I'll have to get the wheels off at the weekend and check it for build up.

That's why I was thinking about it having to do with something getting hot maybe. Dragging hand brake getting hot and binding? Not sure if that would explain the small vibrations I'm getting at lower speeds though.

If it was balancing then it would alway be present at say 70 but it isn't, it develops over a period of driving.