AP350GT

I've just taken these off my Skyline 350GT, OEM Nissan R35 GTR magnesium alloy wheels with tyres.

Sizes are 20x9.5 ET40 and 20x10.5 ET20, PCD 5x114.3, with original centre caps.

Front tyres are 235/30/20 Vredestein Ultrac Vorti, approx 6-7mm tread left, bought new a few weeks ago.

Rear tyres are 285/30/20 Toyo Proxes, again around 6mm tread remain.

Balanced and ready to bolt on.

One front and one rear wheel had hairline cracks on the inner lip when I bought them off the original owner, apparently a common fault with these wheels due to the GTR being heavy, so he had them professionally welded using mag rod, smoothed on the tyre seat and a small amount left on the inside lip for added strength - hence the lower than usual price.

There are a few small marks and a few areas of touch up paint here and there.

Collection from Cornwall, or 24hr courier included.

£1150 or sensible offers.

I haven't updated this for a bit, the white is now gone, spent 4 days stripping off all the white vinyl, utterly tedious job.

Then spent a day sorting the paintwork out.

Then two 12 hour days wrapping it the new colour.

The 5 spokes are back on, they're being kept as winter wheels, and the GTR wheels are up for sale to make way for the Leon Hardiritt Ordens which should be here at the beginning of august!

I have two sets of decats for DE engines, the first is brand unknown with silencers. £65 posted within mainland UK.

Berk decats SOLD.

Paypal or bank transfer accepted, I always split paypal fees 50/50 with buyer to keep things fair.

Ecu fitted, now running perfectly. Solved!

Another update if anyone's interested, vtc solenoids were fine, cleared codes and they didn't come back. Bought a replacement ecu, sent to H-Dev for nats removal, moment of truth when it comes back tomorrow!

Cool cheers I'll take them off, check for any signs of clogging and give them a clean up and do a 12v op test first.

I've been trying to buy one for mine to work with NDSii ( www.nissandatascan.com ) this last week, and that only works with a v1.5 adaptor, not a v2.1. Can't say for sure about other apps but it definitely needs a v1.5 for that... saying that it wouldn't talk to the Torque app either.

Another little update; binned off the bluetooth idea, received another wrong version adaptor, so installed windows on my macbook, paid for PC based NDSii with a VAG cable I had lying around, and got a couple of codes up, they are:

P0102, MAF SEN/CIRCUIT

P0021, INT/V TIM CONT-B2

New MAF sensor on the way.

Intake valve timing control bank 2 though, not sure on what to do with that.

Will post with results just to help anyone else in the future who might be in the same position as I am.

Thanks Nodge! Yeah hopefully NDS can sort it out! Going to give Jez at H-Dev a call soon, see if he can shed any light on it.

I got a couple of codes up from ABS / SRS with an Autel reader, they are - C1109 - BATTERY VOLTAGE and C1130 - ENGINE SIGNAL 1. Some have had C1130 traced back to the IPDM so I'm wondering if the ecm and throttle motor control relays are buggered, maybe water has got in there and shorted or corroded something, one for the weekend.

Throttle body changed, still the same. Losing the will to live with this thing now!

Bit of an update, got nds just waiting on the Bluetooth interface.

I did a resistance test on both cam position sensors this morning, and both of them had readings of zero across 2 of the 3 pins. I tested the spares I bought and they checked out ok, registering resistance across all 3 pins (1-2, 1-3, 2-3) so swapped them over. Started it up and it's still the same.

Cleaning the maf sensor made no difference either. Double checked for loose anything, split vac lines, all good.

Found the NDS2, ordered a Hudl and bluetooth v1.5 scanner, thanks for the tip Nodge.

Sorry i've not commented for a while, just to pick up on something mopedmark said, you definitely have an intake "suction" noise when you are revving the car. How long have you ahd the car? Take the air filter out and see if the previous owner has drilled holes in the bottom of the air box, I've heard of this before to create the suction noise effect you have. I'd check the WHOLW air in take system for leaks if I were you. Just a thought, anyway hope you get it sorted mate.

Thanks bud. I've had the car a couple of months now. I've had the airbox out already and there's no holes drilled that I could see. It hasn't made that sound before. I'll check the intake system when I get time.

The reason I ask about the ODB is that there's an Android app available which will perform the idle air volume learn at the touch of a button. Much easier and it was the only method which got my idle to normal. Search the forum for Nissan Data Scan or NDS.

 

I think you're right about the 350GT, engine wise it's the same as early Zeds albeit the JDM version.

I have an iPhone, don't think I know anyone with an android phone. I'll look it up though thanks mate.

Nodge, I've ordered a decent OBDii tool, one that can display realtime sensor data. I had the engine up to temp and wheels straight. It just goes straight to erratic revving as soon as it's started. The odd occasion where it's started normally it's around a minute before going mad again as per the video.

Randy, yeah that's a fair point, I got the impression the Z and GT share the same engine, sensors and ecu, all the info I've read on both cars give the same answers.

I've ordered replacement cam position sensors, throttle body, going to give the maf a good spray with maf cleaner, double check pcv hoses.

All this happens a week after selling my other car, gutted!

I've had the battery off, done everything you said above and tried the 3 procedures probably 7-8 times now, a couple of times it started and idled well but within a minute it started doing it again.

It's running very rich whilst it revs it's tits off if that helps.

I'll keep trying the learn procedures.

Lovely thanks bud. Is that disconnect both battery terminals?

And even if it's revving itself silly just let it run?

Hi mate, I've tried the pedal dance a load of times, maybe the engine temp condition wasn't right, I'm getting it trailered home later so will try again this afternoon.

Also when I did the throttle closed position learn, I didn't hear the throttle move at all, tried it a number of times.

Tricky it didn't flag up any fault codes, this is why it's baffling. It's getting trailered home tomorrow so I'll try the dash light fault code method to see if I get anything that way.

Thanks Keyser I'll give that a try, anything is worth a go at the moment.

Jumping350 from what I've read the idle is controlled by the MAF, TB and ECU together, there is no IACV.

Hoping it isn't an ECU fail, what's involved if that's the case? I'm assuming it's not as simple as one-for-one swap going off how complicated everything is so far ha

Well I tried the above numerous times today, cleaned the MAF sensor, had a look at PCV, throttle body looked clean. All vac hoses seem to be ok, plugs and wires seem ok.

I took a video before, you can see in this that it idles ok and then decides to have a fit again. I've had it idling normally but every time I did something that puts load on the engine, a small rev, turning on heaters, even windows up and down it goes into spazz mode again. I'm thinking the ECU might be shot if that controls the idle..?

Excuse the boring bit in the middle, I wasn't expecting it to idle properly, usually each time I start it, it goes straight to erratic idle. Skip to 1:07 for that.

Thanks I'll try again tomorrow, printed that out so I can use my phone as the timer instead of reading off it

Hi all,

I'll keep this as simple as possible - so today I changed the brakes on my 2003 350GT (VQ35DE, automatic transmission) from the peasant-spec single pot calipers to the standard Brembo 350z calipers.

I disconnected the battery at the negative terminal about halfway through the caliper swap (remembered the manual said to do this, too late maybe), and the key was in the ignition (I couldn't remove it with the drive in neutral),

Swapped the calipers, disks and brake lines over, bled them off, refilled the fluid reservoir, wheels on, lowered off the ramp.

When I start it, the revs are jumping between around 1500-2000 constantly. Slip, VDC and ABS lights are on.

Nothing in the engine bay has been touched at all except the brake fluid reservoir and battery.

I had a quick google while I had 3G for all of 30 seconds and found ECU and throttle position reset procedures, tried them (counting seconds in my head, no stopwatch available at the time) and the ecu reset seemed to have it settled for around a minute, but as soon as I touch the accelerator it starts hunting again.

It hasn't moved off the ramp space, I didn't dare try to drive it out in case it started doing it again.

Has anyone experienced this or have a solution?

Thanks in advance

Andrew

Thanks for the feedback all. I have to admit I'm not 100% on the gtr wheels and am still looking around, considering either 19" Leon hardiritt ordens with a nice bit of dish or a couple of different rohana wheels, rc7, rc8 or rf2. Getting rohanas means not having to buy 4 new tyres if I stuck with 20s but the ordens are amazing on these cars.

Open to other ideas too, please feel free to make some suggestions.

Would also agree with put back to standard, I tried selling my heavily modified S15 not so long ago and got no bites at all. Then sold off the mods, and it wasn't even a week before I found a buyer for it, it had a lot more interest, and I also got the money I was after for it. Not many people want to buy a pre-modded car unfortunately.

Figured I may as well start a 'progress' thread. This is my 2003 350GT, it's silver underneath and vinyl wrapped white.

It has usual mods, plenum spacer, panel filter, earthing kit, flappy paddle shifters, told it has been uprev mapped but I'm not convinced after a recent dyno run it only made 240. It has a 'HKS style' exhaust, it's not very good quality (doesn't mate up properly, flanges are practically tin) so that'll be replaced with an Invidia system in the next couple of weeks.

I also have a full set of 350z brembo calipers, disks and braided lines to go on soon.

This is when I picked it up.

The engine bay looked like this:

So cleaned it up.

Then started a few changes. R35 wheels. I didn't dislike the 5 spokes, just wanted to put my own touches on it as you do and I like the oem+ sort of thing.

Couple of engine bay mods, painted both battery covers, fitted a rarejdm loom cover, Injen CAI, Stillen torque damper. Also have a circuit sports alutec brace to fit but need to get a couple of spacers made up due to the plenum spacer. Still needs a lot of TLC.

I've taken the injen intake and engine damper off today, didn't like the noise or added vibration, one thing I love about this car is how smooth and comfortable it is and I don't want to lose that, so the factory intake and apexi filter have gone back in.

Also painted a couple of interior bits.

That's it for now.

This is what it replaced. Would keep both if I could!

I don't think it will have been at Japfest last year, the guy I bought it off wasn't a show-goer. I'll probably change the wheels again at some point but the 5 spokes just weren't quite right for me. Having 'stance' stamped on them really put me off them.