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Miller350z

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Posts posted by Miller350z

  1. I guess any excuse to spend money on something new is good lol, just wanna make sure what part it is. So I just got home and started it in my garage, the drivers side fan came on fairly soon. I left it a while and the second fan came on. I unscrewed the bleed screw and coolant did actually come out this time, along with a load of bubbles. (aa man tried this on the roadside, however he left both rad cap and bleed screw off And nothing came out of the bleed pipe). At this point the heater did not work. I left it a little longer and did the same thing to the bleed screw and I repeated this 4 times in total. I never tool the bleed screw totally out....should I have done??? Now heater is working great. The top left rad pipe was really hot (about 75°c, however the bottom right rad pipe was still cold around 35°C. I used a laser thermometer to get the temp. So in a way I'm no better off, do I still have air in the system?

    Should I just bite the bullet, empty the rad, remove the thermostat and stick it in some boiling water and see if it opens?

  2. Hi, hoping for a bit of advice/help. Car has never overheated whilst I have owned it. It was 27°c yesterday, may car had been sat for 8 hours. I got in to drive home. Going through town at 30-40mph. Got approximately 5 miles, around 12 mins driving and the engine management light came on, it juddered like hell and had no power. I pulled up and it smelt hot. I could hear a hissing/whinning noise. Opened the bonnet and coolant was coming from the header tank. Header tank was now empty. Waited for it to cool down. Topped rad up with water and nothing came from bleed screw. Topped up bleed screw and water came from rad cap filler hole. Drove home and left it.

    I'm thinking....

    1) blocked rad

    2) thermostat

    3) water pump

    4) air in system

    5) head gasket!!!

    I had a p1217 code 

    Any help would be good.

    Thanks

     

  3. Hi, hoping for a bit of advice/help. Car has never overheated whilst I have owned it. It was 27°c yesterday, may car had been sat for 8 hours. I got in to drive home. Going through town at 30-40mph. Got approximately 5 miles, around 12 mins driving and the engine management light came on, it juddered like hell and had no power. I pulled up and it smelt hot. I could hear a hissing/whinning noise. Opened the bonnet and coolant was coming from the header tank. Header tank was now empty. Waited for it to cool down. Topped rad up with water and nothing came from bleed screw. Topped up bleed screw and water came from rad cap filler hole. Drove home and left it.

    I'm thinking....

    1) blocked rad

    2) thermostat

    3) water pump

    4) air in system

    5) head gasket!!!

    I had a p1217 code 

    Any help would be good.

    Thanks

     

  4. Yeah I'm certain it's got to be something to do with the throttle body or Induction. It only ever happens when the accelerator pedal has very little pressure. Like I said put the pedal down a bit more the noise goes, take you're foot off the pedal the noise goes. I had a new bank 1 sensor fitted and he smoke tested for leaks so I don't think it'll be induction or exhaust really. I commented on a post about this 3 years ago when someone had a similar issue. He didn't find the cause then and I've reached for ages and not found an answer. You would've thought this problem would've come up before on other people's cars and the depth of knowledge on here someone must know. If I ever get to the bottom of it I'll post the answer 

  5. Afternoon all, as I was going to japfest and had a 135 mile journey there o decided to change the rear whining wheel bearing. Pain in the backside but it was sorted. However I have another whine and it's just when you press the accelerator. So basically when the throttle is only just open. So floor it no whine. Let off no whine. It's only when the throttle is very slightly open. Also happens on cruise control again when the throttle is slightly open. So that was annoying on the journey down. So what is the problem and how do I fix it????? Is it a throttle body bearing? Is it a common problem? I know the noise has always been there but just want it sorted now.

  6. Holiday approved so thats 100 ENTRIES :D 

    1. Andy James + Kat. PAID,Tracktime 10.20,12.40

    2. Shezza - PAID

    3. Valy   -   PAID

    4. Keyser +1 - PAID

    5. Paul k + Dawn - PAID

    6. Nso93- PAID

    7. Humpy - PAID

    8. G1en - PAID

    9. Rickdon - PAID

    10. VeilsideZ

    11. Beb + Colombia. PAID. Tracktime 10:20, 12:40

    12. Bob94+1 PAID

    13. Buster  - PAID

    14. Lumby101+1 PAID

    15. Teejay+1 PAID 

    16. Flashback PAID

    17. Modo +1

    18. TT350 (try)

    19. Papa PAID

    20. Olly350z - PAID

    21. Louis350z (not on here) - PAID

    22. alexclabbs

    23. Jay84 - PAID

    24. jackf + 1 - PAID

    25. Dillydot82 +1 PAID

    26. retro_al PAID

    27. 350z South West

    28. EzeePzee - PAID

    29. cs2000 - PAID + Tracktime @ 13:40

    30. chippychip123 +1 - PAID

    31. Mark123

    32. DrMurderDeath +1

    33. N1ck- PAID

    34. Nismoandy +1PAID

    35. Conlonl

    36. Apoc124 - PAID

    37. LewisH - PAID

    38. pintopete58 PAID

    39. KG350z PAID

    40. SUPRAWOOKIE +1 PAID

    41. LMStaples + 1

    42. BenHz33 + 1 PAID

    43. ShortPaul +1

    44. Zero:One +1 PAID

    45. wvSTUwv +1 PAID Tracktime @ 13:40

    46. Mr.szarvas +1 PAID

    47. Kingsley + 1 - PAID

    48. V1H

    49. Cob1980 (+1) - PAID

    50. Mattrwebb +1

    51. Jake.Lowther +1 (PAID 2 Tickets)

    52. 14N - PAID

    53. 350gottwins +1 (paid2tickets) 

    54. Jonnymonno +1 PAID x2

    55. KBAD + 1

    56. Matt V6Z +1 Paid Track time @ 9:40

    57. Yorkie +1 PAID

    58. GracieB + 1 PAID

    59. Sebastian PAID , Tracktime 10.40

    60. Zebedy + 1

    61. RoxZ + 1

    62. Stephanie 

    63. MatthewThain

    64. Kostask +1 PAID

    65. Chris141084 +1 PAID

    66. Stocker11 +1 PAID

    68. Finners PAID

    69. bam350z +1 PAID

    70. AbiiPow +1 PAID

    71. MattRwebb +1 paying on 23rd Feb

    72. N15GTE (Richard James + Sharon James) PAID

    73. eroll_350z - Plus 1 (2 Adult Tickets) - PAID

    74. Coops1958 + 1 PAID 

    75. Cloud1440 paid

    76. Shire350z + 1 PAID

    77. MarkSt PAID

    78. Stevod
    79. Mambofever PAID

    80. Gorbash (Ian + Gen) PAID

    81. kayjay0_7 - PAID

    82.  Harry-HR PAID

    83. WwZed, Track time 10:20 PAID

    84. Sisson18 +1  PAID

    85. Andy_Muxlow.  PAID
    86. Mark350Z +1 PAID

    87.Liviu Broscoi  PAID

    88. scottdky +1 PAID

    89. Longsh07 +1 PAID

    90. Matt89  PAID

    91. Aus10 PAID

    92. Dans3403 +1 -PAID

    93. bluesimmo +1 -PAID

    94. slates  -PAID

    95. Hypnosis + 1 - PAID

    96. griff_350 -PAID

    97. Kayla +1 PAID

    98. Adam46z33 +1 PAID

    99. Pattzed +1 PAID

    100. Redsky +1 PAID

    101. Svothe +1 PAID

    102. Miller350z +1 PAID

    • Like 1
  7. Hi, I was hoping someone could advise me what to change. About 10 months ago I had a scorpion y piece fitted. A month later p1147 came on. I reset it and it didn't come back for about 4 months. It came on again so I reset it again. The light came on again mid January and I just thought it would be p1147 (rear o2 sensor 2) however it was p1273 (air/fuel sensor 1, although that code says loads it could be?). So I reset it on the 19th jan. The light came on again today reading the original p1147 code. I've reset it again but it'll probably come back on............so which sensor do I change?? And is there a difference between sensors? I've seen the o2 sensor from £50-£150

  8. I have decided to get some coilovers for my 350. I have got my choice down to these 2. Has anyone got any experience with the 2? Is one better then the other? I do 95% of my driving to work so I don't want a really harsh ride. I'd like to do 1 or 2 track days a year. To be honest I won't probably fit them until April so the salt and cold weather don't get to to them. As far as lowering the car, I'm not that bothered about going really low even 10mm lower would be fine. I have 20/25mm spacers on, how low can you go with no rubbing what so ever? The reason I'm asking now is because demon tweeks have the tein for £704 delivered at the moment. Meister crd would be £759 with forum discount. Only other thing I thought is if I went for the tein I could get the edfc at a later date if I wanted. Which is not something you really need bit is a nice toy. Ultimately though I really want the best coilovers. What's people's thoughts?

    Thanks

  9. I had like a tapping/rattling noise when accelerating hard, I was sure it couldn't be the exhaust and I looked into loads of things. In the end I knew the flexi was on its way out as it was an mot advisory so I changed it for a scorpion. Been fine ever since. It may look like that at the bottom of the flexi but what's the top gonna be like?

     

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

     

     

  10. Yeah it was a good day, I was in the first track session but it was hard to go fast at all as people were bunching up on the corners. Was yours the black 350? Stuck mine on the dyno as well. Probably not a lot of point but at least I could see kinda power the engine is making and I got a graph!!!!

     

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

     

     

  11. I'm gonna be going to this. Would be good if there was a club stand.

     

    Do they have many trade stands at japfest?? I went to modified live at Cadwell park on Monday and the was only 3 stands. 2 with cleaning products and 1 superpro. I expected a couple of exhaust, suspension, brake stands at the least

     

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

     

     

  12. I had a clicking/tapping noise on my car only a couple of weeks ago. Wouldn't do it as much in neutral just reving, but when under load accelerating from say 3rd gear from 20mph of 4th gear from day 30mph I got the noise. My exhaust y pipe was blowing but thought this couldn't be it as it sounds like it's coming from the rear..........got my y pipe changed and no more clicking/tapping. I even thought it could be detonation. I even put a video on YouTube "350z possible detonation" you have to turn it up load but you can just about hear it. I honestly wouldn't of thought they blowing y pipe would've been the cause of mine but it was.

     

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

     

     

  13. So I then went out and did a good bedding in procedure. Started 50mph to 20mph and then 70mph to 30mph. I did at least 30 brake applications and it's still the same. So I'm thinking warped discs. I double checked and fitted them on 11th September and they've done less then 2000 miles. What do people think????

    Any advice or opinion would be appreciated.

    Thanks

     

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

     

     

  14. So I then went to the off side and that didn't look that bad. It did have some deposits from the pad but not as much. So cleaned it up as well. However when I was looking at the disc the outer part looked thinner then the inner. So I measured it and it's 1mm thinner. What do people think of this? Aren't both sides supposed to be the same thickness? It's like the outer it a softer metal, it's warped and caused my problems.

    e1909987d8b33f4cfbcc7cf7c68b94f4.jpgdc66927dcf55b1063bf7b7992bf73158.jpg1ce46e4ff01fb0ee0ac3227dc89d4f1b.jpg19cb836c8c5676038f1db33ee16723d3.jpg78616b5f052d932a4af1f79ba6ad55b1.jpg924f5df949f2673a77478420ed33c5fe.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

     

     

  15. Thanks for all the replies. A quick update in this. I had the clicking axle to out today so had a look at the rear discs whilst I was at it. The front side of the near side rear disc looked ok but on the rear there was a fair bit of pad deposits. The groove in the pad was also full of pad gunk. So I cleaned them up by picking the deposits out and giving the disc a good clean.737deab7d1b53912c6ec1dca6ab3f3b0.jpgb756636a6191514d4e49f3f0533d02b8.jpgecff6f25fbe07653aeb0580edfcdbede.jpgbaad0610a2ce2ff201004e4d5c7097de.jpg04ff0d4f396fd7d69a61592e97f75345.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

     

     

  16. Like this one. Did this today but it was really hard to tell as the slightest bit of pressure on the disc and the dial went mad. I did notice that there was about 5mm of pad gunk in some of the grooves so I'll give the hard braking thing a go. I did take it out afterwards and did try the hard braking but only about 5 times. When I pushed them really hard (like emergency stop) I couldn't feel it as much. So I'll be giving this a go. Like was previously said this solution is free.

     

    May possibly be having a quick go around Caldwell in a few weeks. Nothing special just a 20 mins session but wanted good brakes for that!1f17fb6d50a4bca65bbd5a72f5e54f58.jpg79cd3ed392985bd0837159ac85ad3d12.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

     

     

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