codders

I'm guessing that's to check the head gasket?

Indeed. If the head gasket goes you can be burning oil and water. Water can also mix with the oil and create the white gunk. White smoke is normally water.

I would suggest a leak down test to find out the exact problem before spending any money.

Oh and

Need a bit more info ...

White or Blue smoke?

Are you certainly using oil?

Are you using coolant?

Have you checked in the filler cap to see if there is white gunk?

Vee power is in November (2nd). October has hot hatch Sunday.

I've been on the grid a few times with my MR2 Roadster (soft top sunday) and I've never registered.

Just another Volvo clone.

Give me one of these any day ...

http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/jaguar-mark-2-revealed-2014-08-28

My FTO had a lock in the mapping that wouldn't let you go over certain RPM until the engine was up to temperature.

My MR2 2zz engine was the same. The engine normally has the rev limiter at 8.2k but if the temp was below 65 ish it was limited to 5k.

All car ownership manuals I've had say set off after about 1-2 minutes but don't load the engine until normal operating temp.

I've also heard many times that worst engine wear is at cold start up.

Does this one work with the 350Z DE, as its not listed. ?

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item48588191d1

All OBDII readers work with all EU cars after 1998(?). It works fine on my 350Z.

Just make sure it's at least version 1.5

I diagnosed 1147 with it using Torque app on my Android phone.

http://www.350z-uk.c...ed-o2-sensor-2/

EDIT:

OBD Compliance

In 1996 in the United States, a Federal Law came into force requiring all US-sold cars to be OBD2 compliant. Most OBD2 vehicle diagnostic tools are therefore advertised as working with all cars from 1996 (OBD2).

The OBD2 Federal Law applied only to cars sold in the US.

 

In the UK and the rest of Europe, our equivalent law (European On-Board Diagnostics, or EOBD) did not come into force, and more importantly, was not fully implemented by our car manufacturers, until 2001 for petrol cars (2003/4 for diesels).

 

Due to this it is difficult to know exactly what European vehicles are OBD2 compliant before the above dates and we recommend checking with your dealer before purchasing equipment for cars manufactured before 2001 Petrol and 2004 Diesel.

Even where a seemingly identical car may have been sold in Europe and the US before 2001, from our own testing and research, it is rarely the case that the European model will be OBD2 / EOBD compliant.

All Cars sold from 2008 use the CAN-Bus protocol.

http://www.talktomyc...mpatability.htm

I have a manual one like this ...

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item233d68f27a

but I prefer the Bluetooth one like this (Requires free android Torque app) ...

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3ce6a24847

I have this Bluetooth reader ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Interface-V1-5-ELM327-OBDII-OBD2-Diagnose-Bluetooth-Auto-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-/310722531793?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item48588191d1

Looks like a Volvo. Doesn't have the nice Jaguar lines. Bad move IMO.

Off the line the TT RS is awesome ... especially if it's been chipped ...

Still don't want one though. It just doesn't look special.

I'm so glad I was brought up from the age of 4 to handle an accident in the correct way ...laugh, cheer and say "Let's do it again!"

Plus with the Batman car you could fire rockets at the buggers. Now if I could only fit them to the Zed.

Great idea, I barely use the boot, may as well put something useful in there! I also want frickin' lasers.

I'm so glad I was brought up from the age of 4 to handle an accident in the correct way ...laugh, cheer and say "Let's do it again!"

^^ I had the Batman car too once ~ remember using the flip out front thing to ram my other toy cars & used to fire fake rockets.

 

F**k knows where that went?!!

I used to use the Batmobile for car-he in the playground. Then I moved on to these ...

I think I had the one with the green bonnet.

or maybe ...

Always wanted an Alfasud but never got round to owning one.

For me it has to be either my MR2 Roadster 2zz or my old Renault 5 GT Turbo.

Happy with my Nokian zlines for £430 fitted (using tyreleader as a supplier)

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre-Size/18-Inch-Tyres/245-45-18-Tyres.htm

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Nokian/zLine.htm

I just booted my Z with Nokian zlines for £420 fitted. Very happy with them. Can't praise tyreleader enough.

Tyrereview

Comparison

Blowing exhaust? Get someone to rev the engine while you have your head under the car. See if you can hear it blowing anywhere. Maybe there is a bad exhaust connection point.

Certainly looks cleaner ... but too high.

It would be staying on the drive rather than in a garage, I was thinking about a cover but not sure if that would exacerbate the issue or make it better?

Not sure but car covers can flap about in the wind and wear the paintwork on the corners from what I've heard.

Unfortunately, extended periods of no use is not good for cars ... unless you have a garage like Jay Leno.

Moisture is your biggest enemy.

My previous car (MR2 Roadster) was off the road for a year and certain painted metal parts in the interior corroded. It was kept in a garage and driven every 2-3 weeks.

My 350z has slight bubble on the bonnet lip (moisture getting under the paint) and the headlights have had moisture inside and left marks. All due to lack of use from previous owners.

A dehumidifier in a garage would be ideal IMO.

if it re occurs it logs it again as pending next time (or whatever the count for that code) you get the light on.

That is the point where I would expect the code to be logged in the verified fault codes area ... but it wasn't, it was only in pending (unverified). I'll keep my eye on it and see what happens.

I'm using an ELM327 and the torque app.

That is what I use. Never had a problem on my Toyota and I had to clear a P420 everyday for a year due to a high flow cat ... should've just bought an O2 spacer

Also your code is saying that the heater element isn't working.

 

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but the heated element is only used on a cold start to bring the lambda prob up to temperature.

 

Once up to running speed you shouldn't notice any difference in performance

I'm a bit confused why the code was just a 'pending' and why the EML came on. Toyota only display the code when it is a verified code. I guess Nissan and Toyota work a little bit differently.

If there was an open or short I would have thought the code would be continually brought up but I've cleared it and it hasn't come back. Time will tell I suppose.

Thanks for confirming the specific sensor and it's importance (or lack of)

Welcome to the club. I'm new myself

As for UpRev ...

Better throttle response - the standard ECU reduces throttle response in the lower gears. By tuning the throttle pedal to throttle plate map we can make the car feel more lively. Also, fuel and ignition timing map optimisation is carried out leading to further improvements

Doesn't the ECU limit 1st gear to 60% throttle, 2nd to 75% and third to 80%? This is the main reason I'm thinking of an UpRev.

Planning on an uprev next year. Want to do a few mods before hand.

If the rear O2 sensors are used in the same way as my previous car (MR2 Roadster) then all they do is monitor the efficiency of the cat.