The_Lord

I have the same issue with mine especially in slow traffic. I feel the car hesitate and "jump" sometimes.

So what do you use for gearbox and rear diff GT4 Zed?

So you're saying Fuchs or Comma are better.

So why everybody says never use anything else other than Nissan's original?

Today I got recommended fully synthetic 75w90 GL4 in either Fuchs or Comma from a Japanese performance car specialist.

I read a lot on the forum about not using other than Nissan oils for the transmission and/or rear diff. but how can the specialist recommend these? They also said that the oils are the same grade as you would buy from Nissan, the Fuchs is a slightly higher specification.

What do you think?

Welcome to the club mate

Thanks mate!

It's good to be here

Just so it's very clear, ONLY use genuine Nissan fluids in the gearbox and diff or you will make it worse rather than better.

Moly is a nice touch.

Thanks, I will

2.9 for the gear oil and 1.4 for the diff, we stock and sell the OEM fluids...

What's your website?

OP you from Hayes? Think I've seen you about. I'm in a silver Z with private plates.

 

Japex have a great reputation too, they're in kings Langley and will be able to undertake the work.

Just before you enter Hayes from UXB's side. Haven't seen you about yet mate unfortunately.

Thanks for the tip

OP you from Hayes? Think I've seen you about. I'm in a silver Z with private plates.

 

Japex have a great reputation too, they're in kings Langley and will be able to undertake the work.

Just before you enter Hayes from UXB. Haven't seen you yet mate unfortunately.

Thanks for the tip

Thanks guys. I'll PM Jez to see how much will it all cost.

I hope I am doing the right thing.

I got my oils and moly slip from Jez at horsham Developments about an hour from you if your willing to travel. He sells them as a kit so you get the required amount.

Thanks mate.

Do they do the change as well? Any feedback you can give me aboit them?

Clarkmotorsport sell the oem oil and molyslip

Thank you! The price is very good too.

Any idea how many litres for each?

I also heard about the benefits of molyslip so I am inclined to add it as well.

My previous car was a 320D which had a heavy clutch as well. Definitely not as heavy as the 350z.

I am also thinking of lowering the clutch pedal as it sits a little bit higher than the brake pedal at the moment.

I believe that by changing the oils and lowering the clutch it will be smooth and better to drive.

I read that Alex supplies the oils on here for a good price. Is this still valid?

And also, where can I go to perform all the above? Somewhere close and good.

So I have been driving my new lovely Z for a week or so now and I can definitely feel that the gearbox is a little bit notchy and it sometimes grinds in 2nd gear if I am not careful, especially when cold.

After reading several topics on the forum about this issue, I am thinking an oil change for the gearbox would help.

Since it is going to be up there, why not change the rear diff oil?

I checked the service history and both have never been changed.

What do you think?

Where shall I go? I live in west London (Hillingdon area).

Any recommended garages around here to do this and not break the bank?

Thanks,

Welcome

Welcome

hi. nice car, midwest performance by any chance?

Yes. Why?

I have the same issue with mine. Just got it several days ago and the rev needle is not that smooth but after talking to the guys on here O decided to wait for a month or two before getting into anything.

I don't feel that the acceleration is very smooth between idle and 2-2500 rpm. After that it flies. If I am driving at low rpm (1500) in a low gear I feel that the car has "hick-ups" Also the rpm at idle is not very stable. It stays between 750 and 900 rpm but if you look at the needle it looks like its twitchimg a bit. Maybe I am crazy amd this is how the car is supposed to be.

Ah yes, is it also normal for the sound of the car to be like a plane taking off at high rpm 5-7000?

 

It could need the throttle body or maf cleaning, folowed by the pedal dance BUT I would leave it a while until you get used to driving the car rather than diving in

 

does the service history show a plug change ?

The service history doesn't show a plug change but I will double-check tonight, maybe I missed it.

I read a lot about MAF and throttle body cleaning on the forum and the symptoms fit but I think you are right. I will leave it for a month or two to see if there is any difference.

Maybe the previous owner didn't use proper fuel and with me adding only super it'll get better.

Welcome. What are your mod plans ?.

Standard for a year or so to get used to the car and then probably cat-back, intake and uprev.

after that who knows

I know I may just be paranoid and I still do not know the car that well but should I post the possible issue above in the general section?

Frost leather interior yes but the number plate ends in oul.

Why?

I don't feel that the acceleration is very smooth between idle and 2-2500 rpm. After that it flies. If I am driving at low rpm (1500) in a low gear I feel that the car has "hick-ups" Also the rpm at idle is not very stable. It stays between 750 and 900 rpm but if you look at the needle it looks like its twitchimg a bit. Maybe I am crazy amd this is how the car is supposed to be.

Ah yes, is it also normal for the sound of the car to be like a plane taking off at high rpm 5-7000?

The black widow!