synolimit

Reread what he wrote. I too thought he said LTH WITH cats but he says over cats. He knows haha I think that's why he said he'll send them for coating. Ceramic coating will keep temps down. Or wrap like I did. Plus hfc keep some power at bay. LTH FTW! Please can you post a link or advise what you used to wrap them? Ta. Sure thing, best wrap is DEI titanium wrap. It's like silk and stretches vs the old fiberglass stuff you had to soak in water before install. Plus you breathed in the fiberglass stuff and it doesn't have as high of a heat as the titanium wrap does. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010130/overview/

^^^^i meant you need long tube intakes! not headers.

Can't say I'm surprised. The short rams hurt power, they don't help it. The Z runs way to hot for them. In traffic youre killing power because the MAF sensor pulls timing the hotter the intake temps get. You need long tube headers or keep the OEM setup but install drop in K&N filters and a smooth silicone post MAF tube.

Reread what he wrote. I too thought he said LTH WITH cats but he says over cats. He knows haha I think that's why he said he'll send them for coating. Ceramic coating will keep temps down. Or wrap like I did. Plus hfc keep some power at bay. LTH FTW!

Mid links- use a 7" spring? OEM style coilover people would know this question. OEM shocks- keep around a 10k rear like I run now till aftermarket coilovers are purchased? FYI, my weight ratio is 57/43 so maybe a softer spring should be used because the azz end is so light.

LTH are the best! But be warned, those and catless test pipes can make the exhaust sound like a raspy piece of crap. I had to make and install Helmholtz resonators in my X pipe right where the LTH bolts to the X pipe because the rasp was so bad. Now it might be the best exhaust ever (I made it all ). Intake I made my own also. About half the cost of the stillen and it's the same thing basically. I can show you how to make one with ease. As for the manifold, a company and i are going to port and polish the OEM one. If you look at z1 motorsports they did it with dyno and the porting is cheaper than a m370 and the mid range is basically identical and you keep your top end where the m370 loses it. The company and I though are going to also port and polish the throttle bodies and lower manifold that's cast aluminium. We will dyno every part. We will tune every part with a before and after, and if all looks good we will start a core exchange program so we get your OEM stuff and sell you already ported ones ready to install. I have high hopes. A tune won't be a 100% must but will give you the best gains with everything. Here is my car with my intake and CBE and light weight rpf1's and then I added LTH's. Pretty nice gain with no tune yet. Everything OEM will be 100% ok. If you want to run ethanol then you need a new pump and injectors. Not sure if you have e85 there. Clutch will last as long as you don't smoke it. 200 some TQ won't kill it. But drifting, racing etc all the time will. Don't worry about it. The clutch slave cylinder on the other hand fails all the time with any Z no matter whats done. It will or won't happen.

If I buy the spl mid links I can no longer use my swift spec-r rear springs or OEM. What do you all suggest that is a good replacement from swift? I see most are 2.5" in diameter but length are all different. When I talked to Fortune Auto about their 510's and I told them what the car was for and they suggested I buy their coilovers with 15k front and 13k rear. The swift spec-r now I believe are 10k front and 10.5k rear but obviously on OEM shocks. I don't have money to do the coilovers now and the mid links if I go OEM coilovers or true coilovers and SPL rear toe arms. I need rear toe adjustment at the moment and it's all I care about!!. So the cheapest plan is mid links with new rear springs. Should be under $1000. But do I buy the 13k spring now or buy a softer spring until I can get the front coilover to match with it plus a new rear shock that can handle that rate? Also the 13k spring might be bad with the OEM shock plus 10k front and 13k rear might handle like ****. So let's say I go with a 8k, 9k, 10k, rear...do I buy 6" spring, 7", 8"??? The mid link can obviously adjust height so maybe it doesn't matter? But if it didn't, why does swift make a 5,6,7,8,9,10,11" spring in a 65mm ID?

Got to be honest this was my initial thought. Surely anything with mechanical metal contact is going to create some 'sediment' to form. I guess it's how you interpret the word shavings but I reckon he just means the usual stuff. I wouldn't sweat it until you actually feel or hear a problem to be honest. Exactly! Here's mine at like 1k or something. That black is like microscopic powder. Big chuck of it on the lower right of the magnetic plug shows a normal amount. If you start to see bright silver...you have issues.

On my 370 I did redline fluid at 1000 miles and have drained and refilled at least 5 times in the last 1000 miles as I've made and installed a diff oil temp gauge and custom diff cooler. Every time the bottom of the jug has lots of shavings. I currently have 8k on the car. The shavings I'm talking about and are normal are like 10 times smaller than a grain of sand. But you will have a million of them.

It's actually normal. I've done diff fluid changes in jeeps, subis, nissans etc. all from 200 miles to over 100k miles, all have shavings every single change. That's why almost all cars have a magnetic drain plugs. They don't want the shavings always getting back in between the gears. The tranny also gets lots of shavings. Trannys also have magnetic drain plugs. If you install a magnetic drain plug in your oil pan, you will see shavings in there also after every oil change. PS, there is a big difference from shavings to chunks.

I have this same issue on my 370z. If drive at say 35mph, the road has a slight curve right where I need to turn the wheel maybe 16*, the yaw light flashes but does not stay on (and yes, it's the yaw light that flashes, not the traction control light) and the brakes are pumped automatically causing me to plow left. I got an alignment after a right front tire hit and after recalibration of the system this is happening now. Alignment looked good after a few tweaks, and I can't see anything bent, even measuring the bow in the tie rod end. I reset the ecu by pulling the battery and now it DOESNT happen. All seems good right? Well now I'm scared to turn right because I'm afraid the system will kick the brakes on and I'll plow into another driver (USA). FYI, after hit steering wheel was 16* turned to the right and I went straight. Now its maybe less then 5* but turned left when going straight.