synolimit

Some inspiration... u

Deleted the side curtain air bags awhile ago and had a whole bundle of wires taped up. Decided to delete the center airbag module which made me dig into the the passenger side harness again. Before i knew it only one wire was actually needed for the windows last 1/2" up and down. Now its so clean.

Racing seats in, next roll cage!

Well it's finally time. I'm tired of fuel starve so the gas tanks going to get cut in half. I'm going to have a local shop do it for about $150. It's not only the fuel starve issue though. The main reason I want it cut is to 1. Install a side exit exhaust out the side skirt in front of the rear tires so 2. I now can do a flat bottom and proper rear diffuser. 1. I'm going to have to figure out if I can reinstall the fuel gauge sensor. 2. How loud is it going to be because I wanted to do a fuel cell but the cost just sucks. So I won't be doing dual side exhausts at 2.5" but doing a single drivers side exit at 3" because the drivers side tanks getting the chop and not the passenger. I guess wish me luck and comment with any concerns or ideas we might miss. Ok in less than 45min I unbolted the CBE from the X pipe, removed the W and Y braces, removed the crazy light carbon drive shaft, heat shields and disconnected the E brake. Moving nicely. Ok the tank took about an hour alone. Pretty easy as its only held in by two straps and 3 hoses but the two 17mm strap bolts have zero room to remove from below which are above the subframe. I had to take two nuts and from inside the car, lock them together around the threads sticking up from underneath and then loosen them. Then below I could remove with my fingers holding the tank up with my other arm. So much room! My heads spinning with all the activities we can do! So many activities!!!! Whole body can fit!

Does anyone know them? http://www.driftworks.com/contact-driftworks/ Needing spacers and going to road race so these need to be legit. Work case scenario I replace their studs with 190,000psi APR studs and grade 8 or 10.9 nuts. Anyone know them?

Idk how many of you have GT wings or GTC wings but holy crap is our trunk weak!! If you mount the base screws through more than 1 layer of the inside re-enforcements you're going to bend the deck lid as it gets sucked down in. So I only did the outside skin. Well that's way to weak and thin of aluminium. So I beefed it up a little! Now the trunk has 3 layers. One of which in the middle is really thick metal. The other 2 are just paper thin. I didn't want to cut through all that so the new under mounts are only going to the back 2 screws because I didn't want to cut more. The old method was just aluminium blocks about 2x2. From the vid you can see major flex! Now I have a piece of steel angle iron under the lid. Welded to that is another piece about a foot long so I can unbolt from the inside and still use the trunk. Then more angle iron welded to a 5/8" thick piece of steel then bolted to the trunk floor. I'm still not done with the drivers side and I'm going to bolt both sides together for lateral support on the inside. But over all a major difference! The car now moves vs the deck lid

update 5/13/15, 313HP/266TQ 5th gear SAE Engine---- New single 3" side exit CBE--------$ LTH---------OBX, Done CBE---------Mine/Top Speed, Done CAI---------K&N/Z1/Mine, Done AOS---------Mine, Done PnP TB, upper and lower mani-------Mine, Done Tune----------Covert, Done Engine mounts---------$ Oil cooler---------Mine, Done PS cooler---------$ Drive---- Rear diff cooler--------Mine, Done Clutch--------$ Flywheel--------$ SPL diff bushings--------Done Drop Eng. tranny mount--------Done Redline diff fluid---------Done Redline tranny fluid--------Done Clutch slave cylinder--------$ Suspension---- Stance 2 way coilovers------18k/12k, Done SPL toe links------Done SPL traction arms--------Done SPL rear hcamber arms-------Done Hotckins front sway bar------Done SPL front lower bushing-----$ SPL front impact bushing------$ SPL camber arms front-------Done SPL rear knuckle bushings------Done SPL front end links-------Done Traction and yaw kill switch------Done Brakes----- Z1 SS brake lines------Done Front brake cooling ducts------Done Rear brake cooling ducts------Done Rbf600 fluid-------Done 2 piece front rotors------$ 2 piece rear rotors-------$ Xp10-------$ Xp8-------$ Chassis Roll cage--------$ Aero Front splitter-----Mine, Done Canards------Mine, Done GT wing------APR GT-250, Done Wheels/tires RPF1's 18x10.5 +15/-5 (Z1 20mm spacer), 285/35/18------Done Safety FIA seat------Done brackets-----Planted, Done belt------$ Hans------Done Misc. 11lbs battery------Deka, Done moved washer bottle-------Done

Pics from the porter. unlike the ones on mine, these have a full profiled butterfly shaft and flat head screws!!

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/84438-370z-50-100mph-tread-everyone-post.html#post2642799 So my dyno and 1/4 mile all suck but at least I have some power to prove from all this!! This tells me my dyno reads low and my tires suck for the strip. I'm getting 6.5 seconds on the vid and that's with my tires chirping in 2nd. I figure that's a good tenth or two right there if i can get them hotter. This is ZL1 and C63 AMG territory so woohoo for only 302rwhp. Username, Year, Make, Model, Lbs, L, Cyl, Induction, Boost PSI, Fuel, HP, TQ, 1/4 ET, 1/4MPH, 50-100 synolimit, 2013, Nissan, 370z, 3200*, 3.7, 6 Cyl, All Motor, NA, 93, 302, 244, 14.0, 105.5, 6.5 http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=gDcVViN-n-E

Cars tuned, run, everything. Things a beast

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/84438-370z-50-100mph-tread-everyone-post.html#post2642799 So my dyno and 1/4 mile all suck but at least I have some power to prove from all this!! This tells me my dyno reads low and my tires suck for the strip. I'm getting 6.5 seconds on the vid and that's with my tires chirping in 2nd. I figure that's a good tenth or two right there if i can get them hotter. This is ZL1 and C63 AMG territory so woohoo for only 302rwhp. synolimit, 2013, Nissan, 370z, 3200*, 3.7, 6 Cyl, All Motor, NA, 93, 302, 244, 14.0, 105.5, 6.5 http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=gDcVViN-n-E

2 ways installed

Found some pics online

Ok all done. Instead of running the CAI like the Stillen I had before, I decided to change it up a bit. Since my piping is now bigger I also want it to flow faster and better. So I took out the 90* bend the pipe took to sit behind the bumper and kept my 45* coupling and ran the filter down into the wheel well. Bigger, better, faster, more power!!!! Since I won't be able to drive to the tuner with the new MAF housing I modded the system so I could drive there with the OEM MAF housing and right on the dyno I can swap it out to the new MAF housing. August 8th can't come soon enough! Here's everything I took out. I even re-ran the AOS lines which saved some weight haha

Decided to change out my cai system that uses the OEM MAF section. It's only 2.35" ID which matched the throttle body. Now that my TB is 2.48", I need to have the piping bigger. From the way I understand it, your intake should taper down in size and not up. Tapering down would increase air flow like air going through a compressor on a turbo. I'm going with 2.75" OD pipe or about 2.63" ID. That should have the system bigger than the TB and really help. I bought new MAF housings and they showed up today. Only $40 on ebay. I'm still waiting on the pipe. I'll post pics soon.

I'd only run spl! Your life's worth more than saving money on a Chinese item.

So glossy!!! Not as white as the plasti dip white but like I said, it's the whitest I could find . Once done with no PD left it will look like a really white car. I'll need to find a OEM white Z and compare the two.

Decided to paint my whole car with rattle can paint! :stirthepot: The car was originally metallic silver (I wanted white but hate nissans pearl white! Next to a real white, the pearl looks yellow) but after an accident where I had to replace the passenger quarter panel, it came primered black. so instead of having the quarter panel painted to match the car I decided to just plasti dip matte white. The plasty dip looks good, has held up okay and is easy to fix with dip fix but when you touch up a spot with spray cans the over spray makes fuzz on the car. if you mask off sections to protect from over spray you get a clear raised line. With plasti dip you need to paint a whole panel after a fix and white needs like 100 coats to cover! I'm just tired of fixing spots and the last reason to remove the plasti dip is I just miss smooth gloss of normal paint! If you want to plasti dip a car pick a dark color!!!!!!!!!!! Here's plasti dip matte white Ok to start...red scotch bright pad to scuff the clear coat off of your less than 1 year old car Next, primer after you clean the surface with acetone. I did about 3-4 coats. First ones lighter, then to heavier ones. After several hours I wet sanded with 600 grit paper till it was baby smooth. After 48hrs to harden I then cleaned the primered surface with isopropyl alcohol. Then I sprayed about 3-4 coats, again light to heavy with original Chrysler white from duplicolor. It's the 4th white I tried and whitest white I could find. After another 48hrs I wet sanded with 2000 grit paper. You can see all the orange peel which is why I had to. You want to sand out all the shine till its 100% dull. Still shiny Just right Then I used Maguires rubbing compound with a rough wash cloth. You can already see a night and day difference! Then I used Maguires polishing compound and a micro fiber rag. Looking very clear!! Last I still need to wax it with Maguires carnauba wax after its hardened a few weeks. Not bad if I say so myself. The rest of the panels will be done one at a time.

No still looking for a tuner.

Why's labor so much in the UK? Hand porting the lower and upper manifold here in the US is anywhere from $30-$50 an hour which isn't to bad. The guy who CNC the TB's is only $199 plus $70 if you machine the butterfly shaft with new flat headed screws. Some country over the pond somewhere eviscerated the world's economy so we all have to charge a fortune to make a living now. Lol hey we didn't start it, we just ended it. Blame the guy who loved the VW beetle haha.

Since you can't pull the heads we left the head side alone. When I went to install it I saw a clear 1/16-1/8" of material that could have been removed to port match the lower to the heads. Wish I would have but o well. As far as air going into the cylinder with the injector part, I'm not worried. The air and fuel have lots to go still and mix before the get into the motor. The heads will do this fine.

Why's labor so much in the UK? Hand porting the lower and upper manifold here in the US is anywhere from $30-$50 an hour which isn't to bad. The guy who CNC the TB's is only $199 plus $70 if you machine the butterfly shaft with new flat headed screws.