blobbish

Some years back when I was running Toyo T1R's on a modded skoda fabia. They were great for the car, I got told by my tunners (Jabba Sport) that the litreture on the Toyo Proxy 4 ( or something like it) were a performance tyre of the same caibre.

I had a quaife fitted at the same time and went out for a test drive. I thought I was driving a barge. Steering input felt like seconds and the car just wallowed.

I contacted Toyo and threatened  them under the Sales of goods act, as the tyres were listed on their site as high performance but they were anything but. Anyway, they sent me 4 new T1R's and I told the garage fitting them to keep the proxies (only covered 300 miles).

Coincidentally I wouldn't put them on the Zed. There are two things I dont thing you should be cheap on. Brakes and tyres.

I have a large wing on the back so use the seasucker talon. No issues there.

I pulley my fuse last year on my 40th as I didn't want to risk the confrontation with Nissan. However over the weekend the key light came on, although the car would cycle through Lock>ACC>ON but not fire.

Initially thought it was the switch on the brake pedal, but I disconnected the battery, made sure the ECU was depleted and reconnected the battery and all is good again.

Nice Idea, but I'd be cautious of the placement of those drain pipes. A small leak would impair the front tyres.....

20 hours ago, davidv10 said:

Thanks for the info guys.
 

 

 

Thanks, thats really helpful. Sorry for the silly question, but where is that light module?

If you have a guide that would be so helpful! I did have a search but couldnt find the wiring to the lights/light module.

The wires are all part of the centre roof light. 

I have this i my Zed.

White when the door is opened and red when the the Lights come on.

For the White light I connected to the passenger map light  and for the red lighting I soldered to the light module (green and black wire) i connected a dimmer switch so I could set how bright they are. I also used flat pre wired LEDs.

I have a guide somewhere I'll see if I can dig it out, but there is information on this if you search for  370z footwell lighting in a search engine.

14 hours ago, Payco said:

And read the t&cs about crashing on the track, it can be very expensive.

 

BASE FEE FOR ATTENDANCE OF ARMCO TRUCK – €150

REMOVING DAMAGED ARMCO – €10/METRE (X2 OR X3 OR X4 FOR MULTIPLE-HEIGHT SECTIONS)

REPLACEMENT ARMCO – €31/METRE (X2 OR X3 FOR DOUBLE/TRIPLE HEIGHT)

REMOVING DAMAGED ARMCO POSTS – €5.10 EACH

REPLACING ARMCO POST – €39 EACH

SAFETY CAR ATTENDANCE – €82 PER 30 MINS (CAR AND TWO PEOPLE)

CIRCUIT CLOSURE FROM – €1,350 PER HOUR

RECOVERY TRUCK FROM – €600 (INC VAT)

 

And those are some of the reasons why I only go to the ring on track days.

Be careful. I have updated twice. First was a set of disks that installed without issue, second instillation was tied to the VIN of the vehicle an couldnt be used be anyone else.

I now use WAZE or GOOGLE Maps.

Headlights are expensive, circa £1300 each. I saved a fortune on parts buying from amayama but you need to know the part numbers. should you decide to buy back and fix.

22 hours ago, Ekona said:

Looks sh*t.

Yes. I would agree that it looks like something that you'd get from Mothercare.

I think they've taken design hints from whom ever created those cupboard corner protectors.

Replaced by SHOFT. Not sure what its like though.

1 hour ago, dave_7 said:

no you will need a buy a proper harness bar but they aren't cheap.

 

A CG lock isn't as good a full harnesses but its the next best thing for keeping you pinned in your seat on track

This is what I decided to do. Great little device

I changed my brace to a Zele brace with the holes predrilled. However, I can say that if you were to use the brace and have a front impact you would not be protected as it has no strength. I also dont think that the bar is far enough back to give the 30 degree needed to project your spine.

The bar itself doesn't go all the way across the width of the car. Instead it is sandwiched between 2x 2mm plates ( fitted a long time ago so recollection may be approximated) that attach on the top and bottom leaving a gap at the front and rear.

I fear the bar would just rip out very easy. 

That said. I would potentially use with a harness to hold me in the seat but also use the seat belt.

I dont have a manual presently, but having driven many in the past I can say that if the clutch is depressed smoothly and gentle the car will pull away under idle revs. If your very gentle you can even change gear and go faster and faster depending on what gear I got too. Anti stall will also help.

In an S2000 sat in traffic I have slowly moved through the gears in this way past 20MPH in 4th. Now if I were to aggressively press the it would splutter. I mean 70mph at around 2k revs, and your doing just under half, the car will move.

This sounds somewhat normal. Are you depressing the clutch aggressively?

Really this is poor advertising and can be read both ways. Its not explicit.

Hit the satellite option, bottom left corner or under the options left of the text field.

4 minutes ago, Jay84 said:

Another question (aimed at the group), if we re-voted, and remain won this time, would Europe keep us? Or would they say its too late now, wheels are in motion plates are spinning? 

I think that the EU have already stated that they would allow us to remain. But I don't think that legally it can be revoked. 

Although I have just read that the CJEU is allowing a hearing to go ahead to see if it can.

26 minutes ago, Maggz said:

I agree with all, even the last part. But by UK law, referendum is NOT legally binding. It can stand, sure, but parliament shouldn't enact it, now that we know what all went down.

I'm still talking about laws not feelings or wishes

Maggz. I think your missing the whole point here. It doesn't matter if it was legal or not, the referendum was only advisory.  The Government didn't have to act upon it, they could have stayed in the EU. They made the choice to accept the vote, and they would have been aware of what was real and what wasn't.

It'd an expensive job, but not as expensive sieve as a new engine. I had mine completed as part of a SC install. 

I couldn't agree more with the above. Used clay bars and there a pain but the new clay mitts are fantastic.

I've got 285s on the rears which gives a sidewall of 85.5. Your 305s will give a sidewall of 91.5.

Speed difference at 30 MPH over stock 275 is 1mph using a calculator on the Internet. So you should be safe as my GPS still shows about 2mph lower than the speedo with 285

These are the part numbers I gave to Rich when I replaced mine. Be warned I got mine imported from the US as Nissans lead times were to long.

Oil Galley Gasket Part Numbers:

13533-JK21A

13533-JK21B

Can cover oil Seals Part Number:

1042-3HD0A

I have one or two but most are not on my camera.

This is the only one I have of Darksides! Don't flame me

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you may be able to change them from underneath depending. I'm yet to do my first service but will attempt this method first but I have an Amuse bumper

I presume from his profile picture he has a vq35, so the supercharger layout is different from yours.

Well spotted. Didn't even notice it was for a 350z. My bad.

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you may be able to change them from underneath depending. I'm yet to do my first service but will attempt this method first but I have an Amuse bumper