Mike Rosie

Oh dear Matt, I hope not! So it mainly showed itself when changing in to 5th/6th whilst the road speed was low. 30ish mph. It would crunch in to gear. Not your normal speed for 5th/6th I appreciate and it would be ok when going 50mph+ I would also say it was a 'moderate' shift speed. A slower change than if you were trying to do a 1/4 mile but not granny-ing it in! In fact, if I did it slowly, it wouldn't grind at all Hope this helps and good luck!

So, it would appear this has become a thing. Heard back off them and Nissan say the 5th and 6th synchro require a new 6th gear and 5th gear input shaft! Having seen two input shafts and the dates associated with them I assume my 'Box was a crossover version with the old parts. Only reference to any part on the casing is CD8 #1 (trying to see this from a grainy photo so may be wrong!) Info on the input shaft I found from NissanPartsDeal: Input Shaft 32200-CD80C - 2012-2019 Nissan 370Z 32200CD80C Car Production Date: 12/2013-06/2014 Input Shaft 32200-CD80D - I've got this part (I think) but new synchros don’t fit 2008-2013 Nissan 32200CD80D Car Production Date: 09/2010-09/2012 New parts are inbound so I'll update if there are any more turns in this saga!

Hi all, Member for ages but finally got around to getting myself a 370z! Had 2 350s in the past also so it's good to be back. So then, it was found to have synchro problems. It was bought from a trader so it's back with them for a warranty repair of 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th synchro. After waiting weeks for parts from various places in the world they have all the parts are started putting the box back together... that's where the problems start! It would appear the 6th gear synchro (maybe more but we haven't got that far yet!) doesn't fit right and seems to be engaging the cone of the synchro too early and severely restricting the ease of rotation of 6th gear. It's almost like the inner diameter is too small but the p/n is correct. Here's a video of the gear being turned: Anything jump out? Clinging on to the hope it's something simple and I'll get to drive it to Japfest. Fingers crossed! Cheers

Just jacked it up a gave the sensors a wiggle and checked for the light, but nothing. I'll have a garage take a look over the weekend to see if there is any obvious damage. But for now the light is off and stayed off for my 17 mile commute home. Anything else that I could check before the weekend? Cheers

Haha! I'll check that tonight ZMAN, cheers

Hey! So over the weekend I went to get my Z fully Hunter laser aligned only to find the bolts were too tight/ceased to adjust. On my drive back my CEL came on so I pulled over to do a little pedal dance. The codes (flashes) were 1147 and 1167 - heated O2 sensor 2. I cleared them and they returned the following day - but not straight away and drove home without any CELs. Having looked this up it could be numerous things: Electrical issues Fuel pressure issue Injector problems Intake leaks Where would be the most sensible place to start to eliminate the codes? There is no difference in sound, MPG or performance (but I haven't given it a hard drive since the CEL) Could any of the wires for the sensors been damaged by the car lift for the alignment? It had a horizontal cross member (think it was a jack?) roughly near the transmission. Any suggestions on where to begin? Cheers Edit: Sensors...

Sold, please close. Cheers

Hey Folks, This spoiler came with the car when I got it but it just wasn't to my taste. I swapped the entire boot lid instead of repairing/painting the holes. I'd like to shift both the boot lid and the spoiler together but I can split. So consider buying the whole boot lid to save on drilling and risking your current boot lid! The paint on both the boot lid and the spoiler is very good. The previous owner polished it regularly. There is a small section of paint issues on the boot lid just above the Nissan badge (see pic). All the badges are in good condition also. The glass is tinted but has some scratches unfortunately (the tint). I'd rather collection but can advise on a courier cost if required. Located WS7 near Birmingham. Spoiler - £130 + postage Boot lid + spoiler £180 (courier would be problematic with this I imagine...) Any questions drop me a PM or reply here Thanks Mike

Hey Folks A few weeks ago My rear glass shattered due to some wiring issues with the heated screen. Long story short, I now have some glass that is stuck between the welded panels of the boot which I have no access to. It vibrates when I drive, which is pretty annoying and I can tap it to make it move/vibrate also. It seems to be gathered in the corner to the left of the left boot boot strut. Any suggestions on how to free the glass? What about expanding foam in the rubber trim holes?

Yeah, that seems the most plausible at the moment I guess. Dodgy world, part worn tyres....

Ok, so over the weekend I got the tyres changed so I could have a look at the state of the inside. I found that to my (very untrained) eye nothing seemed out of the ordinary on the inside. You can see the ribs/beads continue as normal where the apparent repair is on the other side (outside). However, all 4 tyres were: The rubber did seem a little softer over the 'bad' patches but perhaps I'm imagining it! Can anyone shed some light on this? Cheers

Duplicate post...

So, managed to get to a garage today and he confirmed all the issues are indeed repairs. Crazy. He also highlighted that the speed rating on the fronts was wrong, V not W+. I've ordered a set of MPSS for 518+fitting off Openeo When I swap them I'll post a few pics of the inside. Thanks all!

Ok, thanks for the replies, I've not seen anything like this either. I'll get them to a tyre garage to see what they say today or tomorrow - I'll let you know how that goes. In the meantime I'll get some new tyres on order because whether they're scuffed or pierced/repaired, I'd imagine they are greatly weakened.

Ok guys, thanks. So what do you think the story is with these? Part worns bought on the cheap? Take a look here for the larger photos https://imageshack.com/a/wPvz/1