Jump to content

Jay M1988

Members
  • Posts

    424
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Jay M1988

  1. Hey all,

     

    I’ve been a member on here for some time now and loved every minute, the guides are top notch and anything needed which wasn't listed someone was always on hand to help.

     

    I would like to ask you all what you feel my zed is worth.

     

    I purchased it quite some time ago and have spent a large amount of money maintaining it and keeping it to a good standard. Rear arches are solid, paintwork 97% good only negatives is small hairline crack in the bonnet but not through the lacquer and stone chips against the skirts inside the arches. It had a full spray job completed inc rear arches cut out and new metal in its place due to removing rust on the rear arches. The work was carried out by a classic car restoration company whom came highly recommended. This spray job alone cost me over £3,500. It has been on the road 5 times since that date.

     

    Mechanically the car has been serviced every year in my ownership, it comes with stacks of paperwork. The clutch is still the oem clutch but it hasn’t started slipping so this has not been changed as yet but I do have the exedy clutch and Tarmac lightened flywheel of which I am supplying in the deal for when the time comes. As you can tell I was one of those owners who bout everything, ready for the if or when.

    Suspension wise the car has had the banana arms replaced for new inc the bean arms. Oem w brace removed for an ultra racing brace.

     

    In my honest opinion the car is ready for an uprev and add the lightened flywheel wile you’re their, it’s actually booked in at Horsham developments but I’m wanting to see if anyone wanted it before I spend anymore.

     

    car detail:

    53 plate zed

    GT spec

    OE53 reg 

    120k miles (roughly) should not go up too much as car is merely a toy for the summer

    K+N panel filter w/newer zeds airbox designed opening

    Plenum spacer - from trader on here

    Hsd coilovers

    ultra racing w brace - tarmac

    invidia gemini exhaust blue rolled tips - w/test pipes

    carbon rear spoiler

    Rockford + fosgate sub + speakers amp’d

    jvc headunit

    Rota alloys - staggered sizing (bigger to the rear)

    rear tinted windows

    nismo style v2 front bumper - rt performance 

    nismo style skirts and rear spats- from rt

    Vented fibreglass bonnet

    Facelift rear led lights - Clark motorsports

    rear lower led lights - tarmac 

    Front arches modified with 370z indicators added

     

    Id be throwing in the bonnet pins for peace of mind if someone wanted to fit to bonnet, never got round to it as bonnet closed on oem latch. 

     

    Overall I hope you can see the time and effort I have put into this car, for the past year it’s been out once, it hasn’t seen the last three winters and when not in use I start it once a week and allow it to get up-to temp on its own. It is currently and has been when not driven sat on the trickle charger.

     

    No smoke only steam when started due to condensation inside the exhaust as it’s  sat in the garage/ test pipes but once got nothing at all, this will be evident when someone came to buy it after the test drive etc. Genuine sale I’ve tried to be as honest as I can with all this as I want your honest opinions back. I still haven’t decided on the sale but I am thinking about it so thought this was a good place to start.

     

    If you’ve made it this far well done.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    C7061AB4-7CD4-4088-B80D-87DB0EA0CC8E.jpeg

    94959441-F0C2-442B-BC22-67241B1027F7.jpeg

    FD875596-861E-4B92-BAF1-BB7ECAF95530.jpeg

    10561404-671D-4B8E-B8F1-3462BC2DB879.jpeg

    4EB5845E-7C77-46C9-933E-F7A2F6075D91.jpeg

    ED261A78-0674-40AA-9727-64651143E5A4.jpeg

    0CD9242A-2DE8-48B9-B07F-0348C8028A71.jpeg

    D776111F-4AC9-4FAD-BD88-028B140EF1F3.jpeg

    E30BE5D0-F1D6-478E-8EAF-4F20C9BAEF5C.jpeg

    388490D9-A26D-42E4-9EEA-F3EBDB1583BC.jpeg

    282543DD-10BC-423F-8D95-CBB1F8906794.jpeg

    0192DD91-0FFE-421B-A2D7-B48AC5754E27.jpeg

    54596D38-6B81-4854-9879-D00FDE34F158.jpeg

    F96C89EB-A76D-4E41-9BEA-EFFF38E2E30A.jpeg

    ED3E30A1-10BE-4F53-9C7D-952EAE14FB97.jpeg

    BC61CA7A-ED26-4B38-BD2E-6F8467D291EE.jpeg

    271EDE9A-CE16-4D99-8681-864FFFB3EDEC.jpeg

    0F956A70-6740-43B2-943F-D5E40D28DA54.jpeg

    71474A57-5E50-4343-8457-BAE9FC20E412.jpeg

    AD81AA43-E86D-43E8-A02E-A32AA106D9FF.jpeg

    • Like 2
  2. Could be bud but doesn’t get around the spoiler trouble, or is the boot a different shape?

     

    Now don’t get me wrong, I’m a potential buyer of the 350 spoiler but I’d rather share others experiences than pretend it’s all good and when I read that these purchased may not be getting fitted for a while thought it would be best to advise, give em a check fitment wise.

    • Like 1
  3. Some of you lads might want to get these tested. I’ve heard of two reviews re fitting on a 370z.

     

    Advised it was sold as bolt on job almost and ended up taking a bodyshop 1 week to fit the spoiler alone. Just a heads up for you guys best find out fitment sooner rather than later. Diffuser has had to be chopped up to fit in the 370z.

  4. It really must be swings and roundabouts with these clutches as Im still on the oem clutch at 115k miles and it hasn't once thought about slipping, touch wood. I am prepped and ready for getting a new one fitted however for when that time comes.

  5. Correct on both mate, just get the paint and a dry lacquer gives you that less than gloss finish. Don’t be scared when coating up with the lacquer it looks hazy almost. Once properly dry wash the wheels down and you’ll see the true finish.

     

    its fine, just same steps as you would with any other paint just change the lacquer out.

    • Like 1
  6. Can’t give you a list as it was just from Halfords. Gave them the above code, bought the primer and dry lacquer from there also. I spent a day sanding, a day and half painting and a day and a half lacquering haha.

     

    So to clarify buy the paint above, then a dry finish lacquer to get the same affect.

  7. Rob I don't have a photo of when I did my rota's but can help with a good colour that I used on my GM 350 a year ago.

     

    It's as close as I could get to the Volk bronze. The colour believe it or not was mixed at halfrauds, it's from the fiat colour range.

     

    This may help you - fiat 750 marron volciano

     

    It came out great with the dry finish lacquer.

     

    Hope this helps you and others.

  8. Bought my TK badge a while ago, TK did a short re-run in japan after not producing the items for many years. Keeping a hold of the sodding thing. Mines the z logo with a line through 

     

    Nearly took them up on the gear knob with the turtle badge on but they shot up in money quickly.

  9. Well I’ve refitted the fully barged battery and the squeal was about 1-2 seconds long.

     

    is it possible to have the belts too tight? 

     

    Ive now tightened the ac belt a little more (few turns and both turn 90 degrees no more)

     

    going to wait till tomos morning so the car has sat again overnight and check all again.

     

    thanks for the help guys.

  10. Evening all,

     

    Firstly I have used the search tool and few threads I’ve read through but nothing’s changed on the car and I’ve started to feel like ripping the belts off haha.

     

    So I’m sure a few will read this and go not this again.

     

    I had my car serviced and part of the service was to fit a new alt belt and ac belt of which I bought through a trader I believe they were gates belts.

     

    Now first week cars been absolutely fine, but say three weeks later or so upon every cold start up morning/evening aka cars sat for bit or even a few hours I start the car and within a second or so it squeals like a pig. This stops after say 10 seconds sometimes a little more.

     

    Now what have I done about it. Firstly I’ve checked which belt is causing the above by spraying a bit water on the belts. 

     

    When applied to the alt belt the noise stops but as waters dispersed it comes back until cars ran for over the 10 seconds (roughly)

     

    Secondly I’ve checked the pulleys and there’s not wobbles no play.

     

    Thirdly I’ve no tool to check tension of the longest run of the belt but I heard some talk of turn the belt 90 degrees on longest run, I can just and I mean just do this the belt is very tight. I’d say it gets 80degrees and 90 degrees takes a lil force. Ac belts tight also but turns 90 degrees fine.

     

    People mention deflection but I’ve no tool to understand when I’ve added 98n/10kg. Deflection is easy with a ruler. I’ve tried just pressing down hard on the alt belt and it moves to 5mm under heavy pressing. 

     

    Sorry this is so so long winded.

     

    Next step was to check/see if belts on grooves and honestly I think it is on there.

     

    Just to round up  the belts don’t squeal when cars been used only on cold start up or when cars sat few hours at least. So say I get to garage or work and tried to start it again when got it doesn’t squeal.

     

    ermmmm I’m running out of ideas, I’m going to check torque on the pulley as doubt garage has used torque wrench. 

     

    Im confused, car didn’t do this before the new belts. Any advice on this is truly welcome hate walking to my car knowing it’s going to scream the place down like a child haha. 

     

    Get oem belts? Tighten up more or less? Check deflection using something? Check torque on pulley? Just a few things going round in my head. Cars been driven 6 hours to JAE this year so should be worn in lol. 

     

    Incase its a low battery as cars used one weekend a month that’s on charge now, and will fit tomos and see if any squeal.

×
×
  • Create New...