Zalas

Used this guide during the last few days. Spot on! Done in about 1h10.

One thing very useful - PH3 screw driver bit in a impact driver makes very short work of the three motor/regulator screws without destroying them (Step 4, bolts in blue)

My support bar next to the skin was surface rusted, took the time to spray some Dynax onto the skin, bottom of door inner and the support bar. Well worth doing.

Al

Thanks - I've also seen the Tein H-tech springs (not the S-Tech) from Torqen and the US: 

Front Drop - 0.3"
Rear Drop - 0.2"

Are Kilen good? The blurb on their site seems to tell a good tale but ...

Al.

Still for sale? Does it need any modifications to wiring harness/ecu etc.?

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/623685-stiffer-springs-but-not-lowered.html

Seems to be OEM Nismo (2k8?) springs do the job - I have the bilstein b6 waiting to go on. Thoughts?

It seems that the majority of the aftermarket springs are lowering. GIven my driveway I cannot have the car any lower than it is already - what are the recommendations for replacement 18 year old springs with over 130k on them? OEM/low-mileage second hand? Or are there aftermarkets that don't drop the front at all?

Al.

Pics are good! Makes me not feel so bad about the ongoing state of mine 😂

BiltHamber Dynax UC/UB is great stuff.

So holy thread revival batman, an update.

It passed its MOT finally, I just need the clips for the sill cover.

Been to the paint shop, stone chipped/Bilt Hamber UB50 applied, had the rear arch filled as well where it went through outer and inner skin. Now to start on the front!

Great to hear, I'm in exactly the same boat: passed last week with minor advisories (rust underneath front of car).

Had to replace the y-pipe with a second-hand Cobra I got ages ago in order to get the lambda reading low enough due to splits around the flexi areas.

Al.

Which mastic epoxy did you use?

Al.

Agreed, unless rear shock bolt is seized in which case a bit longer and a PM and parts from your good self 🤣

Including shocks?

However they do look nice once done.

Also: if you do try to fit a new whiteline bush dont whatever you do heat the casing up first - not only does it warp the aluminium it also melts the bush - bt,gtts

My experience from last few months: nightmare. Bolt so rusted in it snapped the weld on the captive nut on the shock body and then was rusted into the bush itself which needed to be cut out (bolt and bush).

Had a new whiteline bush to press in and three shops failed to press. Ended up getting a second hand knuckle and top support arm from zmanalex for less than the price of a whiteline bush!

Bilstein b6 also highly rated and due to my pestering they're running a production batch at the moment 👍

6 hours ago, Osakakev said:

Thanks Zalas.

 

So either still a small airlock or thermostat. Would upgrading the radiator and leaving stock (assume from 2006) thermostat cause this? 

No, shouldn't do. Tstat opens and closes regardless of rad unless you've got something dislodged and stuck in the tstat from the flushing and refilling?

Panic over on that one then You'd notice.

Full expansion tank? Full to line/marker or full to brim? Expansion tank should expand when hot and then reduce when cool/cold - if it's staying pressurised it would suggest head gasket (pressurised by exhaust gasses).

Wow, thanks Alex... Another reason you're a legend 👍

Indeed.

Could you PM me a price?

🫣🤣

Hopefully a quick hive-mind question.
I've measured the 14mm rear subframe pin as a 1.5" thread pitch (standard M14 fine) but my lovely shiny titanium replacement nuts (cheaper than OEM from Torqen once you include shipping) do not fit after three or four threads. 

Not wanting to cross-thread I was wondering - does anyone know whether they are "non-standard" bolt thread and whether or not aftermarkets should fit? I could always use an M14 die but hestitant in-case pitch is "special".

The "correct" OEM subframe nut for the other side slips straight on which leads me to question my replacement nut thread pitch; none of my other "replaced" front nuts (replaced when swapped kidney brackets) seem to fit either?

This is looking at the wheel arch lining closest to the front of the car, and removed sill cover

So the pin is replaced and I've started on a rust and recovery job as I thought I might.

Wheel well fun and games: structural or non structural?

Answer with long old followwup. You don't need to do those steps if not dropping the subframe-just jack up car, leave jack under diff, add axle stands, swear and curse at the 19mm bastard that moves but has very heavily corroded thread on the bolt 

Hi all,

2004 JDM has some rust worm going on... Including flaking dog eared transmission sump.

Any spares going?

Thanks, Zal.