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jep350z

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  1. I bought a Sony head unit in the end and it all works fine. The only niggle is I can't turn it off from the steering wheel controls but I can control everything else.
  2. I've read somewhere (I think on this forum) that it only needs 2 pre-outs if you're still using the Bose amp, as the sub gets its input from the front and rears. James
  3. This is a really useful thread, and I'm about to take the plunge and change the original BOSE head unit - which currently won't play CDs or even eject them :-( BUT the one thing I'm still not clear about is the voltage of the pre-outs. There seems to be plenty of different opinions on this and other forums about whether 2v or 4v is better, but what I'd like to know is what is the voltage of the pre-outs on the original head unit - and then I'll buy a new unit that matches that... or if I buy a new HU with different voltage pre-out, is it possible to adjust the gain on the Bose amplifier. Grateful for any help.
  4. The noise coming out the back of my 350Z recently doubled in volume and I found that the exhaust had broken apart before the backbox. Garage wants to replace the backbox. Can I just use an exhaust clamp on repair pipe to hold the two parts of the exhaust together, or is this cheapskate option a waste of time and not really up to the job? And yes, I know this is a wonderful opportunity to fit some aftermarket exhaust but just thought I'd check out the cheap option first Grateful for any advice, James
  5. > Is it easy to change to clear reflectors (without LEDS) without taking the bumper off? No, the bumper has to come off - which is why I thought I may as well wire up an LED pair to make it worth all the effort. I'm still interested in a recommendation for LED sidelights - worried that the ones I've found won't withstand the heat of the main headlight bulb. Anyone? James
  6. Now with added smoothness... The 350Z badges came off even more easily. And a couple of coats of Mer removed any hint that they'd ever been there.
  7. Removing the badge on a coupe leaves two holes but it's fine on the roadster.
  8. Learning from the advice in this thread, I completed the de-Nissan-ing of my Z this morning. I used a hairdryer to heat up the original badge for a few minutes to soften the glue... ...and then used a piece of fishing line behind the badge to start sawing through the glue. I started at one of the corner bits of the Nissan bar and only brought the line in an inch or so, before I could then just lift and remove the badge with my fingers. Cleaning up most of the remaining glue left it looking like this: The replacement badges I'd chosen were from the same eBay seller in Taiwan I'd bought my LED sidelights from. These use the same design as the side badges, which I really like: They have 3M tape on the reverse covering the entire badge: And fitted look like this close-up... ...and like this from further away: I also planned to replace the rear badge, and marked it up with masking tape so I could get the replacement in exactly the same place. However, the replacement rear badge didn't have the right curvature to fit properly, but fortunately the old badge came off and cleaned up so well (with a bit of white spirit and a couple of coats of Mer) that I decided I preferred the clean look anyway. Undecided as to whether to remove the 350Z badge as well - what do you think? James
  9. @Dblock - I agree. My Z badges just arrived in the post so I'll be fitting them early next week (busy this weekend).
  10. @glrnet: yes please to the wiring diagram. Thanks.
  11. @Wayshot: you were right, they can be safely prised out and pushed in without removing the wire clip - at least I found out before I'd done all four! Original post updated. Thanks for the advice.
  12. Bump. Can anyone confirm this before I buy an import switch set? Thanks.
  13. @Wayshot: the caps felt very tightly held in the wheel, so I thought I'd remove the clip to avoid the risk of snapping off one of the tags. I've still got the left-hand side to do so I'll give your method a try tonight and update my post.
  14. I've decided to make my Nissan a pure Z-car by removing all the Nissan branding. First job was to replace the Nissan-branded centre caps on the Rays alloy wheels. Replacements were purchased from eBay and are a perfect match for colour and finish. Installation means taking the wheels off. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack the car up using the Nissan jack at the correct jacking points (two little indentations mark this roughly underneath the front and back of the car door), and then remove the wheel nuts to take the wheel off. Good opportunity to use some wheel cleaner to thoroughly clean the wheels where it's usually difficult to reach when they are fitted. The centre caps are held in by a broken circle of stiff wire, which you can see in the back of the new one here: Fron the back of the wheel, press inwards a couple of the tabs and you can push the entire cap straight out. To refit, simply line up from the front of the wheel, and press into place. If you're paranoid about breaking a tab off the caps, you can remove the wire (which is how I did the first two wheels until picking up Wayshot's advice - I used the simpler method above for the other two). If you want a more complicated way, then from the back of the wheel, carefully use a flat screwdriver to unclip the wire at one end, and then the other, and lift it out. It clips in three places. The centre cap will then press out from the back. Fit the new centre caps by pushing them in from the front, and then from the back fit the clip back in place. It's tempting to use the old clips because they are already bent in but I decided it's worth persevering with the new firmer clips just to ensure no-one can ever prise them out from the front. Pull the clip in to a tighter circle and ease into the back of the centre cap. Get the bottom bit secure first, and then bend in one side and then the other to catch into the other two places. Wheel with new Z centre cap looks like this:
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