HassanZ

I use 5w30 - this is the recommended SAE - personally I go for Silkolene Pro-S (it's now called Titan Race - same stuff). I buy from Opie Oils, you can get a discount for being a member on here!

 

Brand is a personal choice, but go for fully synthetic - lot of info here: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11431&start=0

Thank you for your advice! At the moment it is running on millers fully synthetic so I got nothing to worry about at the moment. I will probably change the brand of oil after my next service.

I will view the link you just sent me

I'm so anal about my Alazan leather that I have a square white cloth placed on the bottom part of my seat. I wear a few jeans with metal buttons that stick out and don't want to risk scratching the leather! Does anybody else do this or am I just a bit too anal about my car...

Give www.parkersaccidentrepairs.co.uk a try. They're based in Leicester and are very good!!

the 350z dipstick is pants best bet is to do it on a cold engine as it will give you the most accurate reading of the actual level and hopefully mean that there is no excess up the dipstick tube.

 

without trying to teach granny how to suck eggs, i always read, wipe it and read again, possibly doing this 2 or 3 times to make sure i get a proper reading.

 

no worries about the help, its what we are here for

I've noticed members on this forum are much more helpful than other forums I've been to!

Yeah that's what I will do tomorrow, let's hope I wake up early enough so I have the time to do it!

The end of the dipstick is twisted, looks like its been bent out of shape. Are these dipsticks normally this shape?

The write-up explains having 040's at the front and 050's on the rear. I have exactly the same set-up on my car. Does this mean I should worry???

Did my car come with 040's as standard or 050's? It is a December 2004/54 Nissan 350z UK-GT with the RAYS alloy wheels.

next service is due at 50,600 or in 8 months time which ever comes first

 

and yes the millers would cope with a track session fine.

Thank you, I really appreciate your help and patience! I'll continue using Millers until my next service.

I checked my oil level today and it gave me a very confusing measurement on my dipstick, the oil was all over the dipstick. I will check tomorrow morning before I leave for work and see what the level shows then...

PERFORMANCE PROFILE:

ï‚· API SL, CF

ï‚· ACEA A3, B3

ï‚· Mercedes-Benz 229.1

ï‚· Porsche approval

ï‚· BMW Longlife 98

ï‚· VW 500.00, 501.01, 502.00, 505.00

TYPICAL CHARACTERISTICS:

SAE Viscosity Grade 5w40

Specific Gravity @ 15ï‚°C 0.855

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100ï‚°C 13.8cSt

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40ï‚°C 86cSt

Viscosity Index 165

Pour Point ï‚°C -42

Flashpoint ï‚°C 220

Cold Crank Viscosity @ -30ï‚°C 6,590cP

 

 

 

 

 

its a fully synthetic oil from a good manufacturer i wouldn't be worrying, the numbers seem alright,.

 

if it was tesco's own value oil i'd be swapping it out straight away. whens the service due on it? i'd top up for now and then come service time put in something your happy with.

It was serviced on 05/10/10 (4 months ago) with this Millers XFS 5w40 oil at 41,600 miles. The car is currently on 44,100 miles. When would you recommended the next service?

Thank you for giving me that peace of mind I needed, I would have been stressing all the time until I finally gave up and decided to get an emergency oil change carried out!

So basically if I did take it to a track day (which I won't!), the oil will be good enough to handle the thrashing?

i haven't a clue on the numbers or the difference between the millers range. when it comes to oils i tend to go with what i know, and what is reccomended to me either from the forums or the mechanics i trust.

 

the main garage i use build race cars and touring cars, they rave about royal purple oils and they also use the millers range.

 

to be honest if your not racing the car or taking it on track days then any good synthetic oil will do the job,

 

just don't put cheap mineral oil in, it will do the job but it will be affected by heat far quicker and be less effective far quicker. you could use mineral oil, but i'd be changing it every 2000 miles and not 9k like the service interval says.

Would you class the Millers XFS Full Synthetic 5w40 oil as a mineral oil or a good quality oil?

millers make good oils and lubes, i used their brake fluid on the zed, that stuff will do the job fine, people have preferences, mine is royal purple. others like fuchs titan pro s, amsoil and what ever else was mentioned in the first part of the thread.

So basically I have nothing to worry about...

He did mention he did research into different oils and found that this oil was better for the car than Nissan's recommendation (he's been an engineer in a mechanical firm all his life, he's about 60 years old) and was happy to provide the spec sheet. I didn't insist in looking at the spec sheet as I have no clue!

I've noticed Millers do a CFS range which is much pricier, what's the difference?

Coming from the BMW scene, I used to use oils that had the 'BMW longlife 03' or 'BMW LL' in the recommendations list on the back of the oil container. For 350z's, what is the recommendation code I look for?

I appreciate your help!

The previous owner of my car used Millers 5w40. Is this the right oil for the car and a good quality oil?

 

If I was to top-up the oil, what can I top it up with?

 

Thanks,

Hassan

 

if you can get the same stuff then use it again for top ups.

 

if not then just use any good 5w30 or 5w40 oil

Thanks for your reply. I've just found a link showing the oil that was used in the car. It was Millers XFS Full Synthetic 5w40

The link showing the product picture, description and spec sheet is shown on the following link:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60213-mille ... e-oil.aspx

Is this oil good? Does it meet the engine's requirements?

I just fear he has used oil that is not good enough for the engine...

Thanks,

Hassan

I've been told by my previous owner he used NGK plugs in my car my December 2004/54 plate 350z UKGT. Are these spark plugs good or should I change them to Iridium plugs?

Thanks,

Hassan

The previous owner of my car used Millers 5w40. Is this the right oil for the car and a good quality oil?

If I was to top-up the oil, what can I top it up with?

Thanks,

Hassan

The standard tyres are RE040's all round - not as good as the RE050's so perhaps the previous owner was in the process of upgrading? You have standard sizes on and I think standard PSI is 36 - there should be a little plaque on the driver door frame - if not the manual should have it.

Oh that's good to hear! So at least I now know the previous owner was not cutting corners as he got a set of rear 050a's (more expensive) fitted onto the rear wheels 3 days before I bought it! This cost him £400 and I've also been given a receipt for the work carried out. I'm quite surprised he decided to fit on expensive tires knowing he was going to sell the car a few days later?

What type of oil do you use and what manufacturer is it?

I'm going to go and fill up some air in my tires later, I've got the standard Bridgestone Potenza 040 on the front and Bridgestone Potenza 050a on the rears. The sizes are front: 225/45/18 rear: 245/45/18. What pressure to I get the tires up to (both bar and PSI)?

Does the car come with 040's on the front and 050's on the rear as standard or has the previous owner gone for cheaper tires for the fronts?

Thank you all for the help guys! As soon as I get a chance, I will start sorting these out!

 

Got a few more questions having driven for 2 weeks now...

 

- I've noticed some GT Z's have 2 knobs on the side of the seat and some have one (mine has 2). What is the Z's with only 1 swivel knob missing? Is it an optional extra or something? Not sure - if you got two then don't worry about it!

 

LOL true... I'm just an inquisitive person

 

- When I've parked up after a drive, my idle seems perfectly fine. As soon as I switch my headlights and heating off. The idle drops and then starts to judder a little. You can hear the exhaust thudding to the rev fluctuation. Sounds bit like a knock/misfire? Is this normal? I believe it's normal for the idle to drop a wee bit when you switch of the heating etc... any strange noises whilst driving? I gave my throttle body a good clean, and also carried out the throttle body reset procedure - this improved idle quite a lot

 

No strange noises whilst driving. Just when idling with the fan and lights off...how do you reset the throttle body, might give that a try.

 

- I've noticed my interior roof light flickers sometimes, how do I rectify this? Loose connection somewhere perhaps?

 

I'll try remove the light cover and check if the bulb is securely in place. Is there a specific way of removing the light cover?

 

- I've noticed I've got an antenna stuck onto the windscreen just above the rear view mirror and some unit inside my armrest storage section. Has my car been Bluetooth phone prep'd? Is this an optional extra or a standard fit onto GT models? There is a bluetooth module you can buy which slot into the arm rest cradle - this enables you to use the steering wheel control for your phone. They pop up for sale on here every now and then (£60-£100)

 

I will try sourcing this module

 

- What is the best/safest product to remove bird etching off my bonnet and rear spoiler? Try a fairly non abrassive polish to start with to see if that sorts it. If not, use (carefully) gradually more abrasive polish - but don't go too far - avoid T-Cut and the like, a it can be a bit too rough on the Zed's paint

 

I've already polished the car with Auto Glym super resin polish with no joy. I've been recommended to use G50, you heard of it?

 

- Can I source RAYS alloy wheel touch up paint from somewhere? Want to touch them up as a temporary fix until I get my wheels refurbed. Ford Strato Silver is a good match, have a look at this: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13777

 

That's very helpful thank you! I will go to the Ford dealership and try get hold of some...

 

- Is it possible to remove touch-up paint of the bodywork once applied and dried (like an excess amount around a stone chip)? I think that once its dried you can then polish out the excess

 

Thanks mate, gives me peace of mind just incase I end up getting touch up paint on surfaces I did not want to touch up!!!

 

I really appreciate your help guys and I'm glad I joined this forum instead of the others. You guys are really helpful and understanding, always willing to help as much as possible. This is what makes this forum a great place to be!!

 

No worries - hope this helps

Thanks for our help mate

Thank you all for the help guys! As soon as I get a chance, I will start sorting these out!

Got a few more questions having driven for 2 weeks now...

- I've noticed some GT Z's have 2 knobs on the side of the seat and some have one (mine has 2). What is the Z's with only 1 swivel knob missing? Is it an optional extra or something?

- When I've parked up after a drive, my idle seems perfectly fine. As soon as I switch my headlights and heating off. The idle drops and then starts to judder a little. You can hear the exhaust thudding to the rev fluctuation. Sounds bit like a knock/misfire? Is this normal?

- I've noticed my interior roof light flickers sometimes, how do I rectify this?

- I've noticed I've got an antenna stuck onto the windscreen just above the rear view mirror and some unit inside my armrest storage section. Has my car been Bluetooth phone prep'd? Is this an optional extra or a standard fit onto GT models?

- What is the best/safest product to remove bird etching off my bonnet and rear spoiler?

- Can I source RAYS alloy wheel touch up paint from somewhere? Want to touch them up as a temporary fix until I get my wheels refurbed.

- Is it possible to remove touch-up paint of the bodywork once applied and dried (like an excess amount around a stone chip)?

I really appreciate your help guys and I'm glad I joined this forum instead of the others. You guys are really helpful and understanding, always willing to help as much as possible. This is what makes this forum a great place to be!!

I got a bottle of base coat and a bottle of clear coat in 1 pack from Nissan for £5 including VAT. That is probably the best place to get it from due to accurate paint matching.

A quick question...(sorry to hijack) If you over paint around the stone chip and let it dry, is it possible you could remove that paint or will it stay on the paintwork permanently?

Thanks,

Hassan

Still for sale?

Thanks,

Hassan

Hi mate,

PM sent.

Thanks,

Hassan

Hi mate, is this still for sale?

Thanks,

Hassan

there is an even simpler way to get the boot to pop open, just stick black any slip pads, around 4mm thick on teh bottom of the boots.

 

And hey presto it works a charm

Can you explain this in more detail? I'll probably give this a try first

 

Is there a reason for the weight?

 

 

Yeah, it's supposed to act as a balance so the boot opens and closes smoothly and without too much human effort. If you add a spoiler for example then the weight will really need to be removed as the boot won't stay open. I had my Zed 3 and a half years before I joined this forum and thought the double push on the boot release was the way it was supposed to work

 

 

Pete

That's exactly what I thought!! Sometimes I press the button 3 times before the boot releases. I have to assist the button my pulling the boot open and pressing it at the same time, then it will release. Annoying when you have things in one of your hands!

Hmm I'm gonna have to get the front bumper resprayed...I hate leaving my car at body shops!

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the resprayed bumper - so long as it is intact any doesn't have any signs of substantial repairs. Sounds like it might just be a poor respray (or possibly a poor factory job!) - a decent bodyshop should sort it (in fact some come out better than new - exact match). If you are going to get it resprayed it might be worth thinking about getting a paint shield put over it too - or you'll be forking out again in the future (speed = stone chips!).

 

How long do you think I have to wait after a respray until I can apply a paint shield on? I'll probably be carrying out a respray very soon. Can you point me in the right direction to source a paint shield? How much would it cost?

 

 

Is there a reason for the weight? I'll have to search for the guide and give it a try...

The weight is there to help you when you close the boot. The boot is on struts, so the weight allows you tp give the boot just a gentle push too close it - the weight then does all the work. If you remove the weight, you will need to push the boot all the way down to close it, as the struts will try to keep it open! (unless they're like mine and need regassing... !)

 

LOL yea I heard thats a common fault. A lot of zed boots try eating the owner up!!

 

 

Thanks for your help!!

Thanks for your help!!

My car has been resprayed twice to get rid of the stone chips and its also an 05. Paint matching isnt always done well.

 

The weight is just that, to add weight to the boot, there is a guide to removing it on here.

Hmm I'm gonna have to get the front bumper resprayed...I hate leaving my car at body shops!

Is there a reason for the weight? I'll have to search for the guide and give it a try...

Thanks for your help!!

- How many minutes do I have to wait till I can take the engine up to red line? If I only wait about 3 minutes before taking it up to redline, what could happen?

 

There is no 'set' minutes, you should always wait till the oil is up to temperature before even considering taking the engine near the redline. As you will have seen as standard they do not have an oil temp gauge, but typically once the oil pressure level sits just over 60 at 60-70mph~ the oil is up to temperature.

Yeah...I'll have to be more careful next time and not get egged on to race!

This is the first time ever (in any car) I have put my foot down within 10 minutes of starting the car...I feel really bad!!