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Posts posted by philw99
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Also got my shipping note today, however it's wrong. Only has one strut listed! I'll let you know what arrives, hopefully 2.
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Mods please lock as items now sold.
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Second hand K&N panel filter £15 delivered to the UK:
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So it's like career path, moderator first then in with a chance of becoming an administrator?
Congrats Will Guess you get even more fancy buttons to play with on the forum now?
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I've used them before a few times, been fine.
Can you visit a nationwide store? Pickup your order
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Well done Ian, Congrats.
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That's weird they called me today asking if I'd sent my old struts to them, something about wanting to copy something. The lad didn't sound like he had a clue, all very strange. I've been waiting weeks now..
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Quotes for....?
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Syvecs and dyno time :-)
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Just getting some quotes from places nearby, ask Scoobyclinc in Chesterfield. Just waiting for them to come back to me.
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I'd go with Phil's numbers, they're pretty decent although I'd personally run with a bit more toe out at the front (5deg either side), but that really is just my preference. That's a really solid base to work from to figure out what you're after, thanks for posting Phil
What settings do you run your BCs at, Adab? I had a play with some on a Zed recently, I think I settled around 10 from hard on the front and 14 from hard on the rear, but that was for road use. I'll have to check on those numbers, but I think they were around there.
That's only because you helped to get to that number took your advise and like I'd said so far tyre wear seems fine and the backend feels spot on to me.
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This is mine mate
Also got BC coilovers fitted, feels really good on the track.
Wheels are 18s
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I'm getting costs for the Syvecs, think I'm going to go for it... Mainly in preparation for forced induction
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Thats the HKS Camp2 system which is about $600
Its essentially the same as what I will achieve for about £80.
Ill have an android stick pc linking to an obdII reader via wifi input through the av on the OEM monitor with the handbrake and speed sensor bypassed.
This will then run carista or torque etc on the inbuilt screen while the car is moving.
I had it all rigged last week but have sent back the android stick for a different one as it kept freezing.
I also need a better HDMI to av composite converter as the resolution of the one I have is not good enough.
Ill post a list of the bits once I have them sorted.
What Andriod stick are you using?
Might get a android myself, sounds like a good idea.
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Ordered my SGS engineering boot struts, not cheap but sick of the boot hitting me on the head! will post up what they're like.
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Interesting to watch. I've got SuperPro bushes on my Zed so good to know they where worth the money.
Did you go full kit all over? Did you change them becuase the others were worn, or just because you hoped they'd feel better?
Nice vid RobboðŸ‘.
@ Stu; the front bushes are the ones that commonly fail but all OEM rubber bushes fail to various degrees over time. Shrinking, perishing/cracking, tearing and full blown separation are all degrees of bushing failure. Therefore depending on the degree of failure you may get minimal symptoms or knocking to outright diabolical handling!
If you consider that most zeds are over 10yrs old there are a lot out there that would benefit with bushing changes.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM bushes except they are to soft and allow excessive mov't which dulls handing and eventually they will fail again bring made of rubber. Secondly the compression arm design was poor which leads to premature compresion bush failure. This issues was addressed by Nissan on the HR and 370z I think.
Urethane is better but as the vid shows you need to get well designed ones. I have used Superpro, whiteline and energy suspension. Superpro are up there, whiteline a close second and energy suspension third because some of their bushes are poorly designed. However if you swap those bushes for superpro or whiteline equivalent as I have done for the 2 chaps here you end up with a competent package and some significant savings.
Monoball/spherical/rose jointed bushes are the ultimate because there is no bind or stiction and there supension geometry is always maintained optimally as there is no unwanted mov't. However they don't last forever as they are prone to salt corrosion and they are impractical for daily driving.
I have been lucky to have been able to swap to full urethane bushes in the past and again to solid monoball bushes which are currently on the car. I have also done the full urethane swap for 2 members here. So I can attest to the fact that every single bush showed significant wear.
One thing is for certain the handling is night and day and if you have other suspension mods like ARB, coilovers and adjustable arms it further enhances them.
I will be offering a drive in bushing replacement and general suspension service soon and there will be various packages to suit all budgets and usage but in anycase priced very competitively.
What is the rough cost of replacing all the bushes? I already have Powerflex banana arm bushes fitted. Just curious as to what sort of money you were looking at charging for a full replacement.
I'd be interested in knowing how much for a full kit, can any traders help?
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K&N isn't worth the money i'd say! Build quality isn't great, you'd be better with something else. Upset me it bolts to the back of the toe eye, doesn't fit great so had to make a modification to that also weight, why does it have to be so heavy? Flip side does sound amazing
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I've been told Syvecs. Would have one myself if the cost wasn't unbelievable. Still tempted to one day get one, let us know if you endup getting one.
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Nice one. I'll talk to them, not far from me as well makes a change.
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I'v got the Sparco Rev seats, so a cheaper option to what your looking at and mine are on omp brackets! Sits well, comfortable and looks awesome but never worn with helmet so can't help in that department!
Take it yours don't move? Pain to fit them? Sparco Rev's look good might take a look at them.
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After any advise people have regarding after market seats....
Main aim of changing the seats in so my head doesn't touch the roof! (With helmet on!) so could do with being lower down if possible, also the small safety aspect of using standard seats with 5 point harnesses.
Investigations so far have pointed me towards the following seat:
Went along to demon tweeks to sit on them, that came out as my favourite.
next is seat rails, started looking at this:
http://www.buddyclubuk.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.cgi?WD=350z&PN=INTERIOR%2ehtml#a105
They talk about the holes having to be
"Buddyclub seat rails are capable of mounting seats that have side mounted bolts 290mm approx apart centre to centre" Emailed them to ask.
Aware I'll have to add a resister to stop the airbag light coming on, see a forum post for that
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£20 for express parking
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Thanks Guys found some of your earlier posts the new ARB's have three holes, planning on putting the drop link in the first, the little metal bit makes it fit better at the end that's all so need a new bolt:
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For my own interest plus I've not figured out how I'm going to connect it back up yet, can someone tell me what this is? It's only on the passenger side rear.
Looks like its connect to a switch or sensor?
Appreciate the picture isn't that great
350Z Squeaking/Grinding Noise - Advice needed
in 350Z General
Posted
I had this on mine, metal grinding noise coming from the front. I'd knocked the brake dirt shield and it was touching the back of the disc. Easy to spot on a ramp apparently