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If I drive it like a stole it then I can get the temp go up to 90+. But then on motorway it comes right back down to 70. Every other car I've had with an oil temp gauge will maintain 90ish when up to temp. This one seems the exception.

Thought I would update this. Got a new thermostat fitted and still on a long run the temp needle will read 72 degrees or so max. I will put it down to the cold weather and hopefully it warms better in the summer. For those running a 370z over the winter and have the oil reading 90 on the motorway let me know as I can have the care looked at again. Just worried that the low oil temp will cause long term damage.

Hi, Yes - the only car i ever truly regretted selling was my 350z. The 370z is good, a bit fresher but still no 350z IMO. Probably sentimental more than anything else as 350z was my first 'proper' car. Thanks for the reply but I don't think that's it - the same issue was happening when ambient temps were around 10-15 degrees C. After some armchair diagnosing I think it might be thermostat stuck open - its going to the garage tomorrow for a look so I will report back on their findings.

Hi all, Quick question about oil temperature. My car does not ever seem to get up to temperature for the oil. On the motorway it sits very low / off the dial or around 70°c mark and on idle it creeps up slightly to 80°c but not much more. It is stock with no oil cooler or anything. I thought it might be the temp sensor for the oil but I've replaced that and it's still reading low. The coolant reads about 88°c so that seems fine. These are from the odb which matches the oil temp gauge so rules it out as being the culprit. Any suggestions on what it could be? I did try searching but high oil temps seem to be a concern but couldn't find anyone with an issue with a low oil temp.

Ok. Thanks. I don't track my car or drive particularly hard (esp in wet. I'm a sissy like that) but just feel that for a sports car it's a bit soft. I'll look into your suggestions now. I'm also moving up to 19's which CS is helping me with so that should at least improve the looks! Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

Hi all, I have been ahmming and ahhing recently about getting a new car, namely a GTR but truth be told I would be stretching myself loads even buying one (a leggy one at that) and then struggle to maintain it so that plans on hold for the time being. So in the meantime I'd like to improve the handling on my zed. As it stands it's completely stock but I find its body rolls a bit too much for my liking. My brother has a Ferrari 360 which I've been driving the last few weeks and by comparison that corners flat. Now I'm not a dreamer. I know they are different cars/philosophies/price ranges etc etc but I'd like my zed to corner a bit better and flatter but on a budget. Do you guys have any suggestions for mods I could try/look at? I'm thinking stiffer springs or something along those lines but am not sure. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

Just to add - my Nexus 4 has the same BT issue so it isn't just a Samsung issue. I also have issues with an old Lumia Windows phone so issue not just limited to Android devices either. All iOS devices I have tried have worked fine though for what it's worth.

Hi all, I have been having issues with my Zed for a few months now and seem to be no closer to finding a fix. I was getting P0171 fault code - bank 1 running lean. Mechanic thought O2 sensor so it was replaced. Didn't fix the issue. They had the car for ages, we replaced o2 sensors on bank 1 (upstream and downstream) but couldn't find the cause for the rough idling (although didn't charge me as they couldn't find the fault). I have been living with it since I picked the car up and today I thought I would scan the codes to see if it was still they were the same but today the code was P0174 (up until today the code had always been P0171 indicating only bank 1) which is bank 2 running lean. A quick Google search shows it could be any of three issues: 1) MAF 2) Fuel filter / Fuel pump 3) Vacuum leak 4) ??? A bit of reading informs me that this is unlikely to be an o2 sensor issue due it affecting both banks. My mechanic tells me that the readings for MAF are fine and it’s definitely not the problem. I believe these cars have integrated fuel filters so I would have to replace fuel pump to eliminate this. This leads me to vacuum leak - I have checked online and the most comprehensive way to check is to do a smoke test but can't find anyone locally that is able to do this (my mechanic cays he has checked for this too but I don't know what method he used). I am at a loss and it's really frustrating. This is the best driving weather we have had in ages and I can't even enjoy my car. It sounds like a tractor / diesel when idling. It's horrible. Does anyone have any suggestions or could recommend someone in central Scotland who could have a look at it? I am wary of main dealers as I was ripped off replacing this and that when the car kept stalling. I took it to my guy who diagnosed it as a faulty crankshaft sensor at his first attempt.

Hi guys, Only got round to looking at this issue recently (car has been parked up). I checked with the garage about the o2 sensor they replaced last time and they replaced only the downstream one. The upstream one I got them apparently was the wrong one so they didnt replace it (I found it in the boot afterwards).They said I needed a right front one - so i checked the NGK website and ordered one with the correct part number and dropped the car off again. I have just had a call saying that the sensor they require to replace has 6 wires and the one i supplied was 4 wires. But heres the thing - all the o2 sensors for the 350z on the NGK website have 4 wires. I have also checked the Bosch website and they are all 4 wires as well. So can anyone confirm whether the 350z has 6 wire o2 sensors or 4 wire?

Hi, my car started to idle roughly a few weeks back - no CEL. I took it to my garage and they said it was an o2 sensor - upstream and downstream. Their supplier was out of stock so i sourced them myself and had them fitted by the garage. I picked the car up yesterday and the revs were hunting for a bit - i just put it down to it not being driven for a few weeks/low battery etc etc but today the CEL came on - it didn't come on before. The car is still idling roughly. I plugged it into my bluetooth fault code reader and it came up with the above error. Searching online it could be a myriad of things - has anyone had a similar problem and if so whats likely to be the cause?

Hi, Yup, it connects fine using that pin but then disconnects for no reason a few seconds later.

Hi guys, I recently bought a Nexus 4 and can't seem to get it to pair with the car. The bluetooth logo lights up when I try to pair it and then goes away. It's probably a compatibility issue but wanted to check if anyone else has managed to pair theirs successfully?

Just tried this again in the off chance that I didn't do it properly first time and it worked. Window now dropping properly. Thanks for the help!

Hi guys, I'm having an issue with my passenger side window where it doesn't drop enough when I open the door. I've had this issue before and to correct it I had to take the door apart and press the reset button and it worked fine for a year or so but now the problem has reappeared. This time I tried the window reset button but it made no difference and if anything it made it worse. Anything else I can try to correct this or is it new window motor time? Anyone know how much these are?

I suppose if I hadn't faffed about for half the day looking for someone local that had one in stock then that would have been the best option.

Just had a call from my mechanic - he is saying that it's the camshaft sensor. At £70+vat it's not the big bill I was expecting and hopefully it will solve the problem. Only issue the part is on order and will take 2 days to arrive.

Just to update this thread - as I posted earlier the pedal dance cleared the fault codes but the next time I drove it it cut out twice in a matter of minutes and errors appeared on the dash so my original assumption re me running out of fuel was incorrect. It is now with my trusted mechanic and I have asked him to text me the fault codes once he's had a chance to read them so I could do some research as he doesn't have time to work on the car until later in the week and I'm curious to know what the problem could be.

If I had read the code maybe we would know! I have been out in it yesterday and today and have put a few miles on it and engine seems to be running fine. It maybe takes a fraction longer to start but I think that might be in my head. I will probably get it checked out later today as a precautionary measure.

No - didn't read the code. Will make sure to read it if i comes on again.

Was unaware of the pedal dance to clear the ecu. Have just tried it and it worked! No more error lights. Thanks!

The car cut out soon after I started it. I looked at the gauge and it looked low so I started it again and hoped I could eek it until I got to the petrol station but it cut out soon after again and at that point I just assumed I was out. When I filed it up with the jerry can it stuttered, didn't start then on the second turn it started fine and this is when the error lights came on. I got to the petrol station and after filing it up properly, when i first started it, it cut out again and i thought it was probably because it was still recovering from running out. Since then it has been starting and running fine but the warning lights vary - the CEL stays on all the time (comes on a few seconds after the car starts so it makes me think it's not something it's remembering but that it's picking the fault up each time it is starting but thats me guessing) but the esp/traction lights are intermittent. Sometimes they come on and stay on, sometimes they disappear after starting like they are supposed to.

I think I may have ran out of fuel in my 350z but could swear when I last checked it wasn't that low. I managed to get a jerry can and fill it with 6L of fuel and it started after a couple of turns. When I got to the petrol station to fill it proper it only took 50L and I know the tank in this car is bigger than that as I regularly fill up 60L+. So now I'm thinking I didn't run out of fuel but maybe it was a pickup problem. Also now the CEL, ESP and traction lights are constantly on. Is this usual when you run out of fuel? I will try erasing the codes tomorrow when I take it to my local garage and see if that fixes it but thought I'd ask here incase it's normal.

Hi, I've had my 350z for a little over a year now. Shortly after I got it I noticed it was crunching when going into 6th gear - searching here I found this was quite common and it was recommended to change out the gearbox oil - which I did. The crunching never went away but I lived with it until a few weeks ago when I noticed that if I accelerated hard to say 5/6k in 3rd gear - when I let off I would hear a 'thud thud thud' sound. As soon as gas is applied the sound would go away. I took it to my local garage who had a look at it and they reckon it's the gearbox that needs replacing. I'm a bit tight for cash just now so this is the last ting I needed but is there anything I should have my mechanic check to make sure 100% it is the gearbox? thanks,

Got up today earlier than usual today to try and get the window fixed. I managed to get the door panel off without much hassle but the sound deadening foam fell off in the process - no amount of superglue would make it stick back onto the panel so it's lying loose inside the door card - hope it doesn't cause a rattle. The reset method was simple enough (my button was hidden behind a sticker so took me a while to locate that) and the window drop seems to be working now. Putting it all back together was the hard part I felt and no matter what I did I could not get one of the clips to stay attached to the door frame when pushing it against the door so the panel is being held on with one less clip. I don't think (hope) it will make a difference. My worry always is when messing with interior panels is introducing new squeaks/rattles but that's nothing a few notches on the volume can't solve .

Cheers guys. I even had a look in the guide section - can't believe I missed the thread. Will give it a bash in the morning. Never taken a door panel off before so should be interesting.