scubapics

Ha ha lol. Just read back through the messages only to find it's you! Ha ha ha!

Now about your ocd, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I had both neighbours laughing at me when I was going through the motions of stone chip repair and paint sealing. They just thought I was cleaning for the sake of it. I tell you, after that sealant, the rain just runs off and even when it is dirty it looks damn clean! Mine's black and sealed with Zaino Z2 if I remember correctly. I use Z6 gloss enhancer detailer after washing just to revitalise the Z2.

Jim

It's Will right? Yeah, quite happy to join you at Deepcut. I think someone else is travelling from Guildford so perhaps meet him as well.

Hey Dave. Buddy Club Pro is one exhaust I am considering as well. So far a toss up between that and the Blueflame although the MillTek sounds nice on their website. Just too expensive. Mind you, I got a quote today from Nissan Reading (KJM) for the back box and mid section. £891 inc vat. More expensive than the MillTek! And yet Nissan Basingstoke were considerably cheaper at sub £700! How can two dealers on each other's doorstep be so different? They are both going to order from the same warehouse after all.

I'm interested + wife :-)

What exhaust do people going have? I'm thinking of a blueflame but would be good to hear others too.

I'm coming from Camberley/Bracknell probably via Guildford so could meet up with anyone on the way. That's providing my CV joint work on Saturday all goes to plan.

Jim

Crikey, sorry. Lee not Rob.

Rob's a top man. Things happen that are out of our control at times, family problems, sickness, death or worse, work. I know it's a worry or pain when you are expecting something but I'm sure he'll come through soon.

Hi Captain. I've seen/heard your clip before. I'd really like to hear it in the flesh though. Have you modified your rear bumber, i.e. tucked it? Does it need modifying to fit the blueflame?

Re the japspeed - I have a motto - or rather my wife does: buy it cheap, buy it twice.

Jim

Yes. I've considered japspeed k2. The clips I've heard put me off a bit. Would be nice to hear it in the flesh though.

Hi,

I'm in need of a new exhaust. I've listened to the clips of various exhausts on youtube etc. Milltek sounds nice but v.expensive. Blueflame is a close second.

I'd really like to hear them in the flesh if at all possible. I live near Bracknell M3/J3. Is there anyone nearby with these exhausts that I could have a listen to please?

Alternatively some advice? I really don't want a loud boy racer exhaust but at the same time I do want a nice tone. I've current got a standard 350z 2005.

Jim

The TSBs only offer rotation of the cv joint by 180 deg and greasing the flange and that's all the dealer is likely to offer you. It's not guaranteed to fix the problem and if it doesn't and you are still in warranty I'd push for replacement parts.

The trouble is that the consensus on the board is that the dealers are not supplying/fitting the "uprated" CV joint so even a dealer replacement may fail at some point.

Jim

After doing this job myself I thought it would be worth adding some more tips to help anyone else out.

It's not a particularly difficult job at all. Worst part is whacking the old joint with hammer to release it and jacking the car up securely without damaging something! I think next time I'll use ramps and then replace one ramp with an axle stand under the sill/jacking point with a block of wood. What I'd give for the use of a workshop with a ramp.

Make sure you have a long socket head lever bar to remove the hub nut. It's on tight and you will strain yourself with a short bar. 3ft should do it easily. Get a deep hub nut socket too. You can often hire these from local tool/car spares shops. Don't use your torque wrench - you'll screw it up!

Here's the best tip. There's no need to remove the brake calipers at all. Instead, disconnect "both" stabilizer (ARB) drop links from the stabilizer (long 14mm socket needed) and then just rotate the stabilizer bar upwards. This will leave plenty of room for the driveshaft to be lowered out of the vehicle. I didn't even tie the drop links out of the way.

Removing the inner cv joint nuts and bolts: put the hand brake on and stick it in first gear to help stop the drive shaft rotating whilst undoing the bolts. Take it out of gear and hand brake off to rotate for the next nut and bolt ;-) Use a spanner and ratched so that you don't completely load the gearbox when undoing the bolts.

I used a black and decker work mate to hold the driveshaft whilst whacking the old cv joint off with a hammer. Make sure you hit the inner section rather than the outer section.

When putting the new joint on, make certain that you hold the drive shaft in the work mate or vice. Do not stand the drive shaft on it's end and hit with hammer and block of wood - you will probably pop the cap off the end of the inner cv joint! Make sure you have located the outer cv joint onto the splines before hitting home with club hammer and block of wood. Put the hub nut onto the new joint to protect the threads even further before using the club hammer. I usually put the nut on reverse to protect the flats of the nut.

Put it all back the way it came off and torque up according to workshop manual. I go for the mid way torque setting rather than the min or max.

NOTE: one of the TSBs for this job state to torque the hub nut to 240 Nm. Any higher and the "incident" as they call it may reoccur.

Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

Can be done in 2 to 3 hours per side. Hope that's informative.

I couldn't see any difference between my old and new CV joints. I find it hard to believe the problem is the flange faces. It must be a problem with the joint itself. But then how come the problem clears for a while just by rotating the drive shaft 180 deg?

Jim

So how much does the refurb cost?

Perhaps attached to the outside providing the air can flow through.

Hi all.

I bought a 350z about a weel ago now. Nice :-) Been looking to buy one for 5 years!

Anyway, it has the usual skipping cd issue when cold. I've read and read through the forum and lots of other places and there doesn't seem to be a solution.

So I was thinking. Has anyone tried to fit a small fan to the unit to blow air over the cds / lens? I haven't taken the unit apart yet or removed it from the car to know if one could be fitted. Only needs a gentle breeze so the fan can be set to a slow speed so that it won't be audible when the engine is off. The breeze should be enough to stop condensation forming - if that is indeed the problem.

Any thoughts?

Jim