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Aust350z

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Posts posted by Aust350z

  1. Guys, I was wondering if you were able to help come up with another alternative for the below.

     

    I'm looking to install a "drive recorder" which also has a feature for motion and g-force recording (when car is turned off). One of the supporting accessories has a power pack that includes and on/off switch to compeltely turn the device off idealy when I'm safe and sound at home in my garage.

     

    What I was thinking was installing a VDC button to control this on/off feature in a more easily accessible place. I was thinking VDC can stand for "Vehicle Detective Control".

     

    Is anyone aware of any other Nissan button that might be appropriate for the below spot I'm also open to those options. Ideally I'd like something with a light so I knew if it were on or off which the VDC button doesn't have (or the pics I have don't show).

     

    Effectively I want to install the button here:

     

    JN1AZ36A95M750141-23c.jpg

     

    so it looks like this when done:

     

    DSC03096.sized.jpg

     

    Cheers,

  2. Ok illumination only. Since you have the buttons working already then the wiring to headunit is not an issue. Big relief.

     

    Page AV-15 of US ESM

    factorywiring2006.jpg

     

    Shows that from the buttons there would need to be pins going through the spiral cable to the lighting section (I tapped into the parking light wires).

     

    (i) Can you post the similar page from Section AV from your PDF version?

     

    (ii) Need to check if your spiral cable has the pins for the extra illumination wires to run through. The part numbers I have available as guide are below but I suggest swiping a VIN from a car sale ad from an 06/07 model and call your local Nissan Parts dealer) for the UK model number. It's called a Combination Switch or Spiral Cable. Use your VIN to get the part number from your car too.

     

    AU Part #: B5567-CF40A (Original Part#: 25567-EN025) (2 wires for airbag)

    US Part #: 25567-ET025 (1 wire for airbag)

     

    If part numbers are the same then we just need to tap into the parking wires. If different you'll need the newer spiral cable (combination switch) and then we'll tap into the parking wires.

     

    (iii) Strongly suggest getting a few replacement torx bolts (Part#: 87850-89900) which you will almost destroy getting out. They were about a buck for me and you need two.

     

    PS: Couldn't you have just bought the buttons themselves instead of a whole new steering wheel? Part number for AU/US cars is 25550-CF40A so I'm pretty sure Nissan UK would have a similar part available too.

  3. There is a thread on 350zed-tech from Australia but their wiring is different.

     

    I pretty much wrote that thread on Tech.

     

    Important questions:

    - What year is your Zed?

    - Do you already have the steering wheel controls for audio and cruise or just cruise?

    - If not to above - did you get the spiral cable with extra wires for the audio buttions? What was the part number?

    - Do you have bluetooth?

    - If yes to above - what happens when you press the button?

    - When using bluetooth can you control the volume of the call?

     

    I would imagine wiring should be pretty similar. The only difference I'm aware of is the AU models have a power button for the stereo the EU version has a bluetooth button in its place.

     

    I used a US thread off my350z.com to work out what was needed for the AU version which only needed 3 wires from the spiral cable to the back of the head unit to make it all work. If you do have Bluetooth (and EU cars are the only region that come with it) we may need to investigate a little further.

     

    Do you now anyone who has a 2006-2009 genuine Service Manual for EU we could borrow the AV section from?

  4. Thanks all :teeth: I'll keep my eye on calendar requests for 2013 ;)

     

    A few other pictures of the car which I enjoy:

     

    After a professional detail back in Dec 2009:

    350zcomplete002.jpg

     

    Cruise with friends November 2010:

    imagevti.jpg

     

    Cruise with friends April 2010:

    imagelmr.jpg

  5. Did u massage the car with baby oil or is it just the camera settings :lol:

     

    The car is typically well kept despite her 9th birthday next month. The oily look is due to soft lighting being used - I've got some shots taken in bright sunlight that really 'pop' the sunset colour.

     

    And that's why you should never trust an Australian :lol::p;)

     

    Oh I see!!! :boxing::teeth:

  6. Thanks for the comments guys :D

     

    Ok there's a photoshopped watermark on them. You got me :p

     

    It was really strange watching the photographer take the pics. He was using a large light source and walk in front of the camera yet he does not appear at all... ninja? :ninja:

  7. The local Z club here had a photoshoot night. I decided last minute to have my car shot. Pic's are straight from the camera without photoshop. Came up better than I was expecting :thumbs: Pics #3 and #7 are my favourites :clap:

     

    img7992web.jpg

     

    img7994web2.jpg

     

    img8004web2.jpg

     

    img7999web.jpg

     

    img8002web.jpg

     

    img8005web.jpg

     

    img8010web.jpg

     

    img8014web.jpg

  8. just out of interest, how much do Nismos weight compared to half-arseds finest?

     

    i know the difference between stock 18" wheels and RAYS, but what about in 19" sizes?

     

    I did a search years ago before I bought my 19" NISMOs and they weigh the same as the standard 18s that come with a zed (not the Rays)

     

    No they're much lighter than stock 18". In fact 19" Nismo's are lighter than the 17" OEM stockies too and just a little heavier than the Rays.

     

    NISMO 19"

    20.39lb front,

    20.61lb rear.

     

    Stock 17"

    23.26lb front,

    24.14lb rear

     

    Stock 18" 6-spoke

    26.56lbs front,

    26.56lbs rear.

     

    Stock 18" 5-spoke

    24.4lbs front,

    25.8lbs rear.

     

    Rays 18" Forged

    18.19lbs front,

    18.62lbs rear.

     

    18" Nismos are about the same as the Rays in weight too.

  9. 40psi cold. Michelin PSS.

    Really? Have you noticed any mid tread wear? I run 35psi on ps2's

     

    No not yet. I've got an aftermarket TPMS which showed 43psi after about a 60 mile highway drive today. A little too high for my liking (in summer here) so will be dropping back to around 37psi cold. Wearing on the inner tread just like the S-03's I replaced them with (mainly in rear due to camber). I was hoping the higher psi would even out the wear a little which it doesn't seem to.

     

    I've been monitoring my psi's for a bit - but this has been the first big trip in awhile.

  10. And don't mess/bend/lookfunny/touchinappropriately/fondle the white ribbon cable if you get that far. Be very careful.

     

    You were warned.

     

    EDIT: I should clarify you'll need to disconnect it from te back o the temperature controls for better access but it's fragile so be really careful. If you try to pull the controls out too far before disconnecting it you could break it.

  11. OMG. This has been in news here recently but is now starting to make front page.

     

    Reading the in depth editorial today in the local paper what a sad and miserable lot the British press have become.

     

    Dear Mr. Murdoch - sorry doesn't cut it.

  12. +1 on the place doing the remap doing the spacer install as well. You can get dyno before and after easily then :)

     

    Where do I get one and which one should I be getting. Understand there is thermo, copper and whatever else.

     

    Go 5/16" over 1/2" as you can retain your stock strut bar.

     

    Forget the basic get the iso thermal if your going to the trouble of getting a remap as well.

     

    Iso thermal requires a coolant valve to be installed so you can open and close it in cold/freezing weather. This means cutting one of your lines to install it (or you can choose not to install it at all).

     

    The copper version works like the iso thermal but instead of needing to cut your coolant line it replaces the need for the valve completely and adds a copper spacer up near the throttle body.

     

    If it snows in your area then you must get the copper - no question.

     

    I bought the copper as it gives you the option to completely remove and return the car to stock if you wish. For a little bit you also don't have the hassle of needing to open and close the valve on the iso thermal version - kinda install and forget which I liked.

     

    Hope this helps.

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