str8dum1

good luck!

here's the program I used to combine the AEM to the UTEC logs http://www.jeffsoftware.com/software.php?product=UTI that way on your laptop, you plug in the UTEC, and plug in the AEM (using a serial connection you solder using the AEM instruction manual). UTI can be setup to autolog if certain conditions are met (i set mine to log every time I went over 10psi) or you can manually log. You will need that setup in place if you really want to do any of your own tuning (unless you have a very good memory on what the AFR was for each rpm point ) Just start with the 0% column for now without the cog belt on. Get it so its drivable just fine with no boost before you add boost. Plus that will give you a chance to get a feel for how changing the fueling works.

ya, change the 12's to 10's. 11 to 9 and 10s to 8's Do you have a way to log you AFR and RPM? What wideband are you using?

ahh, cant see images at work, email it to me...

add, you'll just need to make the 0% column more positive, I'd try making them 2 points more positive in every cell in the 0% and go from there.

you can't just swap ECU's as they are tied. I had to get a new ECU and have it reprogrammed by the dealer. What was the AFR doing while it was chugging? Like I said, its pretty easy to sort that out with some logging.

All my previous suggestions were without the knowledge you already had an uprev tune. I didnt realize that ya with your UPrev, they musta leaned out the idle from stock, so my map made it even leaner. But just playing with those idle rpm values in 0.5 point changes will dial in that mid 14 AFR nicely the 0% is pretty easy to tune. Just take the cog belt off the supercharger and go for a drive and do some logging. You'll always be in the 0% column since you cant get into boost. just note the AFR at each of the RPM points and adjust accordingly in the 0% column. Assuming that UPREV didnt change the timing significantly, it should be pretty straight forward. You pretty much want mid to low 14s til around 3000 rpms, then slowly get to about mid 13's for the rest of the map.

all the tuning is done with time the injectors are open in ms, like you mentioned. Hence the more positive the #, the richer the mix and the more negative, leaner I would've thought it more likely that the Fuel Map contains millisecond (ms) values which determine how long the injector is held open. Bigger injectors, more fuel flows in a given time (number of ms). Not sure how you'd work out how much had flowed by another method - what sensor would be used? SplitSec box worked on ms values anyhow, that's for sure not sure if they open full every time or if you can adjust that... I saw on the haltech ecu you can change the direction of the spray if that makes any sense to anyone? gonna have a look and see if its time only...so the bigger the hole the more volume...

which way off the chart, higher or lower? With a 16 at idle you would just need to make the 0% column in those rpms (proly 500-1250) more positive until you saw mid 14 AFR.

YA, if you had your ECU reset back to stock, then the map I sent you would be pretty close again. Technically you could UTEC tune over that UPrev, but that's why the map I sent you didnt run right. What was your AFR at idle when you tried to run the UTEC map? I'm sure we could dial that in with just a few logs.

My kit most definitely made 458 whp on a dynodynamics load based dyno at Forged Performance. They are one of the top VQ tuners here in the states. All on stock internals with meth at 15psi. It was definitely an aggressive setup for a stock block, but my car is not my daily driver. If you have some tuner that doesnt believe my #'s are possible, he can more than certainly pm Sharif@forged on my350z.com. I still hold the record for highest stock block vortech on his dyno. It took me almost a year to get the car to that level of power and reliability. It appears that Dave has an uprev tune already on his stock ECU. If he is tryin to use that along with the UTEC, no wonder why nothing is tuning properly. The UPrev already messed with the fuel and timing. I just used the UTEC so anything in my tune was based on stock ECU values. You'll need to get reflashed back to stock, or at minimum get reflashed for 600cc injectors for idle purposes only. If you did that, then you could put 'ECU' for everything in the 0% load column since the reflash would scale the injectors for you. YOu can easily detune that setup by decreasing the overall timing. I had 17* timing at redline. The map I sent you I think had about 12* at redline, very conservative. I guess we just need to know if you still have an UPrev tune on your stock ecu and then we can go from there. What do you have your base fuel pressure set at (it should be about 45 psi at idle with your vacuum line attached) ** ahh so it does seem you have uprev still on the stock ECU, so like I mentioned either get a full map retune of the UTEC, or dump the UTEC and get a full map retune of the UPrev. Cant use both. I still would never use a reflash on a boosted G/Z but since you can't overboost a supercharger, its a little bit safer. But the inability to monitor knock above 5000 rpms with the stock ECU is my biggest turnoff and kill point.

well that was my baby, so its kinda odd seeing it in someone else's pics. I'll have to read around this forum, good to see how other side of the pond gets stuff done I shared this with Nurrish, but here was a quick vid just out for fun (forgot to turn my vdc off ).

Glad everything arrived safely! That setup still holds the supercharger dyno record at Forged Performance and that was on my stock block. If I was built, I dont think there woulda been much problem getting to almost 500hp with another pulley smaller. Just work slow, and it will all go in nice and smooth good luck!