Tricky-Ricky

Glad to see so many cat lovers on a forum, i keep Siamese cats and mine can't even get out of the garden let alone sleep on anyones car, i am also inclined to think they would need to have some pretty serious claws to scratch well cured lacquer.

Anyway Citronella Oil will discourage them, other than that a water pistol will, but if you get a clever one it will come back just to **** you off

Oh! and i will also be at the front of the voluntary manslaughter Que should anyone feel violently inclined toward one

Any update on that code reader yet?

I already have the dual catback system and its all bolt together so whatever i get it would need to be std type fittings.

I am considering fitting one of these two choices rather than the headers that i have, what i would like to ask those who have gone the decat route, apart from the extra noise, has anyone got through an MOT with them fitted? obviously it would have to be a JDM model that was originally tested on the higher emissions rating and has the cheaper tax bracket.

Also how have you quietened things down if you have a dual aftermarket system? and how much quieter are race cats with a full dual system?

Looking for a pair of high flow cats, new or used, would preferably like to PX/swap for a brand new set of SS headers.

Is this just a base coat that will require clear over it?

Some more now its lowered a bit on BC coilovers.

Of my four seat 350Z now it has new wheels and exhaust, which sound great, reminds me of an Audi V8, coilovers to follow shortly.

There is a very ineresting thread on the my350z.com forum put together by RESOLUTE.

Guys over the pond have been collating oil analysis of their used oils to determine how well they perform, and which is better under what conditions for standard or modded engines

No hearsay or brand snobbery....just the facts.

READ AT YOUR PERIL, AS IT WILL TAKE YOU WEEKS TO GO THROUGH IT ALL

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... -info.html

We did the same over on the SXOC a few years ago, and in fact its still ongoing, they are asking for oil samples to be analysed, other types of engines welcome.

You see this kind of question/discussion on every car forum, and the is no real right or wrong with modern oils, as they are all made to meet fairly stringent and exacting specifications, even the cheap ones

I am inclined to think there is a lot of misinformation, everybody thinks because its fully synthetic, it must be the dogs dangles, but there are some fully synthetics out there that are of no better spec than some semi synth or even mineral oils.

So it States in the manual that mineral oil is to be used, but i wonder if that just got carried over from a manual re write, as the VQ35DE engine has been around for quite some time. and before fully synth oil was a rarity.

The way i see it you can play it two ways, use a lower spec oil and change it more frequently, or buy the top spec fully synth and enjoy longer service intervals, after all that is what it was designed for just like iridium plugs etc.

The only time i would be more careful about using the best oil is when you have either a highly stressed engine, IE track use, or forced induction, when you are running sometimes double the std power output,

even then it has a lot to do with engine reputation, for instance the 2JZGTE engine has a high reputation as being very strong, and can happily run 5-600BHP on std internals, and i only ever ran a semi synth in mine with no problems at all, i have also done the same with a SR20DET running nearly double the std power.

Supprised at your findings with the DS2500. Broken in properly, they are markably better than the OEM pads and have both good cold bite and fade resistance.

 

What break in proceedure did you use? I found DS2500s have to be very warm on break in to get them to transfer pad material properly. Just diving them for 5k miles wont break them in properly or bed them to the discs.

As i said, and i thought i had explained enough for people to understand, but obviously not,

They where bedded in properly! i think at the time it was something like progressively harder stopping and heating, but without overheating them.

The 5,000mls was the period of time before i got fed up with them and changed to something else.

Also this was when the DS2500 first came out, and if i recall rightly i think i changed them to a top spec Pagid pad, and they knocked spots off anything i had tried.

LOL! I think it comes from riding bikes and driving nut job cars, but despite what it sounds like i am quite a sensible driver, i just like to push it when and if the right conditions occur

I used to be a bit of a perfectionist, but i have managed to quell that in my old age, to a degree anyway, i do like my gadgets though, it was OK in the days when i used to build custom bikes, and then mod VWs Fords etc as i could fabricate most things myself, so things like big brake conversions where quite easy, as you could scourer the scrap yards for anything you need,

but now we have nanny everything its no fun anymore

Dick,

 

Providing that you have the Brembo callipers and the rotors are in reasonable condition then the DS2500s will be more than adequate.

 

They do have to be bedded in though, so perhaps that may have been your issue last time round.

 

I have them good to go same/next day at £185.00 for the four corners

 

Cheers,

 

Alex.

Thanks Alex, i will certainly bare that in mind, i don't think its was a bedding issue before, they where on there for 5,000mls and i did follow the recommended procedure, i am hoping that it was maybe a bad batch or just under developed at the time.

How would you class the yellow stuff pads? a good improvement over the std pads i think i have (Brembo)?

I am pretty sure that i had one of the Project Mu verities in my Supra when i got it, and found them to be pretty good at pulling down from over 130 quite quickly, but the last time i looked they are pretty pricey, i want to leave a bit so i can change the brake lines to braided as well.

I have been having a look through various posts on the subject, and i am interested to know opinions on them and why.

Now i took my new 350GT out at the weekend for a short but spirited drive, and quickly found a few limits, apart from finding it a bit on the slow side

Anyway one of the main things that struck me was the braking, now under normal driving its feels fine but not great, pretty good initial bite etc, but up the anti and its a bit of a worry, not exactly what you would call fade, more just a long time to pull down to the speed required.

So on a budget what are the best options and why?

I will give you some background on what i have used before on other cars, a good few years ago i bought some of the then new Ferodo DS2500 for my S14 with Skyline R33 callipers and disc's, and quite frankly i found them abysmal! virtually no cold bite and they didn't inspire confidence when hot either, now whether it was because they where new and not perfected i don't know, but needless to say it put me off Ferodos.

I also tried some EBC red stuff on my earlier S13, and these where even worse, like blocks of wood, they came off after 200mls.

Now after my read, it seems that i am limited to either EBC red stuff, yellow stuff or stretch the budget a bit and go for DS2500, now have these pads come on in leaps and bounds in the recent years, or am i in for a costly scare again?

No they don't work on JDM models, Dan (Dcash5) tried it and couldnt get it working

 

Thats a shame, is there anything else that can read and scan but will also act as a real time display?

with perhaps data logging.

 

did you actually read the reader i posted up info for you?

 

I will be getting this soon anyway if you want feedback

Sorry yes! and i will also be interested to hear you feedback on it, however i guess i am looking for something that doesn't exist (unless you want to pay big money) i want a reader that can also display selected parameters in real time, with the option to datalog and display on a PC later, now the LM-2 would have done that and more if the bloody thing had worked!!

Let me know what you find, looking for something too... how are you getting on with the 'skyline'?

 

You mean the 350Z with four seats and a boot i would be shot for that over on the Skyline 350GT forum

Yes its pretty good thanks, i have fitted an induction kit and an exhaust so far, and it now sounds like a proper car instead of a luxury cruiser, now waiting for a key for the lock nuts so i can fit my BC coilovers and new wheels

No they don't work on JDM models, Dan (Dcash5) tried it and couldnt get it working

Thats a shame, is there anything else that can read and scan but will also act as a real time display?

with perhaps data logging.

Will these work with JDM cars, or is it just the UK models?

http://autocaress.co.uk/acatalog/Scan_G ... auage.html

I have recently purchased a Innovate LM-2 because its supposed to interface with most OBD-2 equipped cars, and found it won't recognise my JDM 350GT, and after emailing Innovate they are saying that they wont talk to the JDM cars

So i am now looking for something else to do the job.

Anyone know where to get touch up paint for the callipers? or failing that a paint code?

I still can't get my head around anyone thinking it OK to use 1lt of oil every thousand miles!

the VQ35DE or VR are what should be termed as " modern" engine designs, but having said that engine design has not changed very much in the last 25years,but materials have, and supposedly for the better!

Having owned quite a few different vehicles, with lots of different engines, including some old bikes, and at no time have i had an engine that used anywhere near that amount of oil, unless it was seriously fooked!

Now i am still awaiting delivery of my Skyline 350GT, with 50K on the clock, and i am getting seriously worried that the dam thing is going to have an alcoholics tendencies for oil,

However i have been doing a little research and have found a lot of reports of quite significant amounts of oil being burnt due to the PCV system, apparently they generate a fair bit of oil vapour,

(which also worries me) but maybe due to the design of the PCV system, more than the usual amount of oil is being drawn into the plenum and burnt, (which by the way does nothing for performance)

It seems a lot of the US and UK 350GT owners use a catch tank, and with good results, it has been found to cut the amount of oil that get burnt by the engine, and quite significant amounts are being found in the catch tanks, which could go to explaining the heavy oil consumption of these engines.

So this is probably worth a try, i have always fitted some form of catch tank on all of my turbo cars, as oil in the combustion process will lower the octane rating of whatever fuel that is used, which with forced induction is a big no no.

I am inclined to think that Nissan know exactly the reasons for these problems. but refuse to act until there is pressure from the right quarter

Does the std Z suffer from high oil temps then? i can understand it on a supercharged or turbocharged engine but is there any real need unless you spend all your time on the track.

Did you use a dummy cassette, or did you do the spring mod (whatever that entails, no pics) or do you think the external switch idea is a better bet?

I use a dummy cassette as the spring mod seemed a bit hit and miss. As long as you don't break the PCB tracks you can still pop in a normal cassette and it'll play as normal

 

For reference the spring mod is removing these parts:

 

 

I guess GND is earth but what are the others and how do you solder a two wire headphone cable to three points lol?

The Left and Ground are together in one side of the cable, although to be fair it's hard to see in that pic

I did see it mentioned that if you can locate the tape sensor switch then wire into it, you can then just add a switch, haven't quite worked out why the other switch was necessary?

I've only ever seen it done on the US bose. That's not to say it can't be done on a UK/JDM, but it might be different.

That pic and guide were by a guy in Singapore! It can be done on any UK car or JDM with the double-DIN BOSE. My post on the last page explains an easier way to solder the cable and how you don't need to cut any PCB tracks:

 

http://my350z.com/forum/7883419-post130.html

 

It's really easy and works so much better than any FM transmitter or cassette adaptor

 

That thread is a bit messy now and most pics have disappeared but I have a saved copy that I was planning to repost here soon.

Did you use a dummy cassette, or did you do the spring mod (whatever that entails, no pics) or do you think the external switch idea is a better bet?

There are a couple of people on that link thread, that have done the mod to UK units, can't see the JDM unit being any different, i am going to try it on the Bose in my JDM 350GT, when i get the dam thing! bloody DVLA