Wookiee22

I'm currently with Mirascon. They're a US firm but I deal with a local broker. Quite a bit cheaper than anyone else I found but still considerably more than double the price back home.

Anyway, good luck with getting those spacers on mate. As a last resort I'm sure you could find a Sapper more than willing to offer an 80% solution.

Yeah, probably just shy of 150. Very un-nerving as the other drivers don't seem at all bothered about pulling out in front of you when you're tanking along

Insurance is a bit of a nightmare for me. I reckon by the time I return to the UK next year it'll probably work put about even, taking into account savings through not paying tax and getting properly stung by the racket that is BFG approved insurance!

The zed has proved to be an excellent long distance cruiser for the cross-europe trips though.

Yeah, sailed through

The tester spent most of his time chatting about the car - he wanted one!

Currently enjoying the cheap fuel - Shell Racing V-Power for 70 cents a litre.

I had our sqn tiffy put my k2 on. Cost a crate of stella which I thought very reasonable, especially given the hassle we had getting the stock unit off!

Car was the fastest in the mess for a while, someone has just rocked up with an S6 though. Might have to do something about that

Life in the far North going well?

Surely there are some REME up there somewhere. Throw some beer their way and they'll happily do it all for you I'd imagine.

I completely understand what you mean, but I suppose it's fair enough when there's a business to be run. A lot of people take the stuff they read on forums very seriously and will make decisions as to where to direct their business accordingly. You only have to look at the US forums to see the extent to which this can go - try looking up the 'Scott Bush' thread on my350z! If people have a specific issue with a company that they can't sort directly then a public forum may well be the place to bring about a resolution, however the disparaging of a company based on the experience of others should be viewed with a degree of scepticism, although that's not to say it isn't justified.

In short I'm all up for calling out those who provide shoddy service - that's right and proper, however I think it only right that a business should be able to try defend themselves - the truth will generally out!

It's always nice when a well-known tuning shop signs up specifically to start internet fights. They see it as defending their work, everyone else sees it as childish tit for tat. I suspect the truth sits somewhere in-between as it usually does.

+1

Anyone running one?

Intriguing

I might be (probably am being..) a bit slow here but I can't see how adding a spacer prior to the plenum makes such a big difference.

I thought the point of these was purely that they made it easier to run lines off for a boost gauge, to the ECU etc. Can't see how it would make any performance difference.

 

There is a clue in here

 

Crafted from precision-machined T-6061 aircraft solid-billet aluminum for long lasting performance; Engineered to provide increased air-flow and performance throughout the power band; Features computer-designed chambers and channels to improve air velocity performance; Its variable venturi aperture provides turbulence to mix the air and fuel charge for a complete burn efficiency

I thought the point of these was purely that they made it easier to run lines off for a boost gauge, to the ECU etc. Can't see how it would make any performance difference.

Do you open it with this?

 

Gary, if for some reason your cover is blown, and the terrorists take you prisoner, well, you'll probably want to take your own life. Here, you'd better have this...

...and also, is this full discharge of the battery likely to have caused damage?

Update!

Right, had an entertaining afternoon pulling out fuses and have determined that the cause of the drain is the radio. It's an oem non-bose unit, and having pulled the dash out to get at the back of it I couldn't see anything untoward - loose wires etc. Has anyone heard of this being an issue before? I'd rather not have to pull the fuse out every time I leave the car!

Bump!

Still stumped. Any ideas?

Might be a bit of a long shot this!

I'm after the clamp that bolts to the Pop Charger's heat shield in order to fix it to the chassis. Got the unit second hand and that bit is missing!

Anyone got one lying around/can easily machine one/know where I can find one?

Thanks!

Andy

Left the car over the weekend with the battery disconnected. Started this morning without any dramas at all. I'm guessing then that I do have something causing a drain. What sort of current is normal with the engine off? If I get the multimeter out and start pulling fuses will that most likely hint as to the source of the problem?

Back to basics Wookie. How old is the battery in your Zed, possibly it was sitting on the shelf at the shop for ages and ages?

 

The stock battery in my Zed lasted a smidge under 4.5 years, changed to another as couldn't get a Nissan dealer when the first one died. With the 2nd battery I had numerous issues in that time with a flat battery when the car has been left for 1 day not started/driven. Changed back to a Nissan battery a month ago and all back to normal. Can leave the car for 2-3 days untouched no flat battery. Hehe, hope I haven't jinxed it.

That certainly is a possibility, although this is the reason I got the battery changed in the first place - seems like pretty bad luck to me!

What's the easiest way to establish if this is the cause? I'm away this weekend so if I disconnect the battery and it still goes flat would that prove things one way or the other?

No bose, but I shall get hunting for the alarm stuff this evening. Thanks!

Alarm, after market stereo or piggyback chip? All have been known to draw power if wired up wrong...

Stereo is OEM, as is ECU. How can I check if the alarm is the problem? Whereabouts is it?

Thanks for the quick response!

I don't have in-built sat-nav and the radio is the stock non-Bose. I've checked for water ingress and there certainly isn't any as far as I can see, nor are there any blown bulbs. Is there a way to check if current is being drawn after the ignition is turned off? Is it as simple as putting a mulitmeter between the battery and its cable (any idea what 'normal' current would be?)?

Lots of questions, I'm just reluctant to pull the car apart (nor indeed have to remove the negative lead every time I park) without an idea of what to look for!

Having just replaced the battery I'm now confident that something is draining it when the engine is off!

Essentially, if the car is left for around 3 days it is completely dead when I come to try and start it. I've checked that everything is switched off/unplugged and still the same problem continues. Having done a couple of searches I can see the same problem has ocurred to others (loose wires behind dash, blown bulbs) but I'm kind of hoping there's a way to determine where the fault is before I set about tearing out pieces of interior trim...

have you got the instruction booklet for the adapter? If you need I'll scan it in tomorrow and post it tomorrow night. I just bought mine last week and it paired up straight away... although the control unit was a german one, so had to replace that... Know anyone who wants a German language control unit?

Thanks mate, I appreciate the offer. I'll have a crack using Pimm's advice and then if that doesn't work, I'll be in touch!

Thanks Pimm, I'll give that a try when I get back to the car tomorrow!

These look like a bargain mate, especially given the hassle we both went through to find some!

At least I'm not typing this in a tent this time though...

Had this issue myself. My car is getting it's BFG inspection on Thursday at Sennelager so fingers crossed I've covered all the bases.

Couple of tips though:

1) Need to be a bit careful about getting lhd lights from the states as my understanding is that the beam pattern is differnrt from the edm ones, and as beam patterns is what all the fuss is about that could potentially be a drama.

2) Not really a tip, more of a word of caution. The companies over here that specifically sell lights to BFG personnel will find it hard to come across 350z models (as there aren't many over here) for less than OEM, new Nissan ones (very ££). Your best bet might be to get on French or German Nissan forums and get asking around there (Google translate is your friend!). I got lucky on here with a guy called Mathus who had a second hand pair for reasonable money.

3) Remember you'll need to swap over the reverse and foglights as well. Not that hard to do, just requires a clear lens (or two) and a bit of wiring. Give me a shout if you get stuck with this.

Good luck!

Anyone got any bright ideas? I'm stumped!