danyboyj

I've not sorted this yet, since I can't identify the source 100% I'm reluctant to buy anything. It takes about 5 mins of driving for the squeaking to start. Then after another 5-10 mins it stops - so it does seem to be affected by heat. Let me know if you solve your problem

How much for a pair?

Another thread res... I recently posted a similar experience: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=51219 and this afternoon I had a look under the car. Now, I do have a Scorpion exhaust and noticed on the driver side, where the tail pipe comes out of the back box, there was a very corroded piece of metal, kind of angular in shape. I don't know if this is the same heat shield people are talking of. I removed it and took the car for a drive but the squeaking is still happening. I then went to the off-side ARB link and there was a lot of rotational "play" on it - yet both bolts were tight, too tight for me to loosen without possibly shearing the heads off. Should the drop link move like this? Since I don't think I can test this without the nut breaking, I think I'll just have to buy a pair and try replacing them - how much would they be?

ah yeah - thanks, I'll take a look around under there before actually removing anything

I might try this myself Does it make a difference which bolt you remove? Top or Bottom -> http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb4 ... AG0332.jpg

I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue? The car's done 62,000 and the rear springs were down as an advisory on the MOT year before last for wearing - oddly they weren't flagged up on the previous MOT :S So the squeaking itself seems to come from the back suspension, it noticeable when coasting at 20mph on an uneven road. But when I tap the accelerator (compressing the rear springs), the squeaks stop. Any ideas? And what's the effort required to change the rear springs? Would I need new shocks too?

Same exact thing has happened to me. Had the gasket seal corrode about 6 months ago and got my garage to weld the joint. Now its developed a slight blow from the other side of the gasket as well as the orignal welding spot so I'm having to replace the box + the centre pipe. Just this minute bought a Scorpion exhaust for £315. Just hoping the lack of a silencer in the mid-pipe isn't going to make the noise level to high - im no boy racer

yeah - i had that issue you need to hook up the blue wire "amp control". If you check my post on the install I explain which cable it is

correct, "unclip" the white housing and then use something very thin to remove the pin from the stalk. I removed some extra sheath from the ICT loom wires and then twisted it around the pin, then heatshrinked them in place. Could you take a photo of what you've done with the plastic ? - I might have a try myself.

well the salesman isn't going to talk bad about the product he sells But in reality, Pioneer's plastic fascia is useless - the outer dimensions are massive, that's not a bad thing - but it does mean you need to be an expert to cut it without bodging it. Then there's the inner dimensions which are too large for the head units outer lip and are too small for the total headunit's size. The only thing I can think of is calling a plastics company and giving them the dimensions of the plastic I need and have them mould it.

as you can see, the extra fascia deos a good job on the left and right sides, but the top and bottom are pretty naff. If anyone has any suggestions for me they'd be greatly appreciated.

here ya go:

You're on the right track. I installed that head unit into the same car a few weeks back. I wasn't very ICE-savy when doing mine but I managed it just fine. I didn't buy a signal booster so can't comment on that - its quite cramped back there but you should be able to push it into one of the side areas. - You won't need a PAC-ROEM-NIS2 - If you want to feed the USB cable into the satnav cubby - as you say - you'll have to cut a hole into the plastic case. I didn't want to do that so I fed my USB and AUX cables into the armrest cubbie through the central bulkhead. - Once you've removed the centre console, you detach the factory headunit from the back of the console, you'll see that once you've got the console out. Now by some bad luck either the Bose unit is too big or the Pioneer unit is too small. The fascia plastic Pioneer provides is fine if you install it with a cage - but without it you get supplied a thin piece of black plastic trim you are supposed to cut down to size. Mine didn't fit around the pioneer headunit snuggly, so didnt bother with it - I'm not sure what Pioneer are playing at, maybe I got given an incorrect piece of trim. Even using the fascia trim from Sextons leaves a considerble gap and I'm still not sure how to fill it. - Lastly, the thing I got confused about was the steering wheel controls, you will see 3 cables (as shown here: http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/ ... n/Pic1.jpg in purple) That will need to be spliced into the 3rd stalk - the pack contains a wiring guide of which cables to splice together, they recommend soldering, but that's highly impracticle while sitting in the car - so I just bound the wires together and put some heatshrink around them, electrical tape should suffice though.

had to cancel my order from DVB car audio as they couldn't get any in stock. Does anyone know where to source one from ?

not off the top of my head. but it was another blue/white lead which had a circular crimp end, allowing me to thread the blue wire from the pioneer loom into it and close it using a pair of pliers.