srobrien

Lovely mate

Thanks for the help the switch and backbox were changed out today with nice clean connections. Should tide me over till I can get rid of the electric shower.

I'm sure your'e not but make sure you are not looking at the main incomer which will be rated at 63A rather than the individual MCB which is protecting the shower circuit. That should be 40A

 

Awaiting picture.

You might be on to something there im a total idiot. its on a board seperate from the main fuse box, and it has 3 switches. One says 63amp but can't see a rating on the others. I'm not a sparky I know enough to get by but when it comes to fuse boxes and load ratings I'm lost. It's a black art to me. Give me a bucket of oil any day. Haha. Here is a pic:

Goddamnit sometimes I really want to just punt the previous owner in the stones!!! I will post up a pic of the mcb when I get home to confirm.

R

Right had the box off the wall again this morning, the switch was getting quite hot during use and there was a strange fishy smell which I can only assume is melting insulation.

The shower is 8.7-9.5 kW

The switch is 45amp DP

and its MCB says 63amp on it so assume that's maximum load.

The cable is 6mm

Does this sound ok?

Im gonna change the switch and backbox out today and redress the burnt cables. Hopefully solve the issue,

R

This is caused by an inferior connection only, high amps at the connection point = burning.

Thanks Pal, connection will be getting remade tomorrow.

R

Cheers mannie need to pop over and catch up soon

Sweet thanks for the help. I am moving it to the other side of the wall in a cupboard. The electric shower will be removed next year and the hall is getting plastered next week so want rid of all unwanted boxes and switches.

Thanks all for the assistance

R

Damn that's where the moisture issue is coming from!! Haha. You are correct it's just a switch.

R

Cheers chaps looks like an old wound so will redress the cable and keep an eye on it.

Oh and I'm an idiot it's not a fused switch just one with a wee light on it.

R

Hi yeah the live comes from dedicated RCD first. Not sure on KW as I never installed the shower. It's a triton excite so should be about 8.5?

Hello all you electrical type people.. Right I have an electric shower over the bath in our new house. I am looking at relocation the fused switch in the hall. When I took the faceplate off I noticed that the live incoming wire was blackened at the end and there was verdigris in the core. What could have caused this? The shower has been running for ages with no problems and would never have noticed this if I had never taken the facia off.

Anything to worry about?

Cheers

R

Get some pics up ASAP!! Word of advice though don't bother with M3cutters forum. Just a bunch of rudebhoys looking to start an argument at the drop of a hat. Stick with here.

Well done dude, you will enjoy it!

"These aren't the droids you're looking for"

Thought as much, various ways of doing it. Will PM you my mobile, just give me a ring and I'll advise. All F.O.C to club members.

 

If it's medical advice or kitchen fitting DoogyRev is your man.

Thanks very much, got your PM. Will give you a call when I get stuck haha.

R

"Purlins" are the big joists that support smaller roof spars or joists.

 

So felt first then spacer battens on top of felt and spars then your metal roof cladding. 50mm tanalised battens should be enough.

Just google " breathable roof membrane "

 

If you want i can pm you my mobile and I'll talk you through it.

Hi sorry forgot to mention it is a flat roof with a pitch from front to back so only has purlins...ala this:

R

As above, excellent advice, but if you are starting from scratch it might be worth considering a breathable underlay onto roof joists, then battens and then fix your sheets to the battens. Any condensation forming on the underside of your sheets will be prevented from entering the garage by the beathable membrane.

 

Again only a thought ( based on nearly thirty years in the construction industry )

Thanks leon, would i just attach the membrane straight to the top of the purlins?

R

Thanks lads so what about my idea of laying it ontop of OSB and felt? Surely because the bottom of the tin is not in contact with the inside of the garage it should be more or less the same as the ambient temp? Any idea on what felt is best and where to get it?

Hi all, I have just ordered a new steel box profile roof to replace my leaky old corrugated concrete one. (BTW I am aware of the asbestos issue).

I am concerned about condensation on the inside so have thought about laying OSB sheeting with felt on top under the sheets but I am not sure what would be the best sort of felt to use?

Has anyone any experience of this?

Cheers

R

Small update....

Frame and Swingarm back from powdercoaters, excellent job.

Fitted new swingarm bearings and test fitted to the frame.

Dry fit of my ZX6R rear shock...ebay bargain at £40!

Modified my rear subframe to get rid of the tie down points and the pillion peg brackets (left half of one bracket to fit the high level exhaust). And given a few coats of satin rustoleum.

Managed to absolutely MULLER my exhaust trying to remove the stubs etc from the head..will have to send it off to a machine shop to get it sorted!!

Should get the brakes and shocks stripped down soon to send off to the powdercoaters.

+1 K1 Exhaust, was funny for about a day then I got sick of it...horrible thing.

One trick I do is to video it all. Get in close with the camcorder (or your mobile these days) and video the bike at various stages - focus on the leads so you know where they go etc. If you take your time and label things up you should be fine. Not just wires, but pipes - like the fuel tank probably has 2 or 3 pipes going from it alone!

 

I swapped the whole engine out on my R1 last year, did it in about 4 hours taking my time. Only prob then is once you get it all back in, you have to assemble it all to make sure its all running, then strip the tank, airbox, seat etc. etc. off in order to get to the carbs to re-balance them on mine. Expect the SV maybe injection, so not sure how you balance that, maybe you dont!

I also hYeah I have labeled most things up and taken pics,ave the service manual which has exploded diagrams of how everything goes together. I have just removed the carbs in situ and left them alone so HOPEFULLY I wont have to balance them as apparently its a sh*t of a job on the SV.

R

Good luck mate. Ive stripped no end of bikes down and rebuilt them and the biggest problem i found is running out of time or other projects coming up - so by the time you come to re-assemble the bike you forget where all the bits go! argh!

Yeah that's what im most worried about that's why I am trying to get the frame done and refit the engine ASAP before I forget how it came out haha. Put all the screws and bolts in freezer bags and labelled them up, but I can 100% guarantee I will have a handful left over!

Project "Now where did that bolt come from" has commenced....bike has been totally stripped down and im sending some parts off to the powdercoaters today...wish me luck!!