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Daryl

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Posts posted by Daryl

  1. Iv got a full set of used 19" Falken 452's

    The fronts have got quite alot of tread left the rears not so much, but would do a track day at the very least.

    One of the rears has a 10mm wide piece missing off the very inner most area of the lip. This will not affect the fitting or stability of the tyre when mounted, but just wanted to be honest.

    Pictures showing the tread depth below. They are located in Milton Keynes, and happy to pack them up if the buyer wants to arrange a courier, otherwise collection please.

    Looking for £160 for all 4

     

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  2. We do have a sense of humour about it. When we went in to finish packing the garage up, someone had compiled a playlist of lots of songs containing the word fire, this was blasted out for a couple of hours. Hits including, Ring of fire, burning down the house, sex on fire etc

    • Like 1
  3. I see there is a picture of your car in your banner. lol

    More on topic, have to say that the new engines are nowhere near as good as the old V8's. (no im not saying that because ours does not work)

    Listening to them last week, you barely needed ear plugs in when they fired the car up the garage, and that was standing 10 feet away from it. The old V8's would deafen you if you were walking past the back of the garage. They also have no real tone to them, just a chainsaw type noise, with waste gate flutter. Was on night shift last week, so didnt hear them at full chat down a straight, just hope they sound and feel better than my experience. The old V8's would make the ground shake, standing in the garage with a grid of F1 cars at the start of a race was spine tingling and earth moving.

  4. Agreed, stick with Tarmac! If he says it fits it will. If it doesn't return it and kick him square in the nuts :thumbs:

    10/4 on that.

    The part is also reliant on the pattern being correct,and fitting. If the original part the mould is taken from is rubbish,then it all just gets exaggerated when your making the parts from the mould. Its all down to quality of workmanship and care and attention to detail.

    Dont even get me started on carbon products!

  5. As said previously, its all the work that goes i to getting the part. You need an actual part,called a pattern, then that needs prep work, then there is making the mould, then prep work for getting the mould ready, then there is actually making the part,and then trimming it up ready for a customer. Yes,i often baulk at prices for some fibreglass stuff, but when you realise the work and time that goes into actually getting the end product, it seems a little more worth the money. And thats before you sell it to a shop who are supplying to customers. The quality stuff will have had the work done to makesure the pattern is exact,then the mould is made slowly and left to cure properly, and then the same with the part itself. If parts are released from the mould after then have just cured, they distort and twist.

    • Like 1
  6. Iv acquired one of these, and was wondering what app i have to download for the iphone to get it to work. Also, from the research iv done on this site, it only works with older iphones, not the iphone5. My iphone 4 picks up the signa via bluetooth, but does not want to connect to it,iphone5 does not pick up the signal. Is this because i have the wrong app on my phone. (downloaded Rev Lite after a post on the site)

    Just wondering where im going wrong with this.

  7. I think you will be fine doing it on your drive way, i did my rear one first, and as I mentioned, had to go to a local place to have one of the nuts removed, and then the exhaust issue, so ran out of time to do the front one, which i did the next day. I think if you allow a day to do both, that should be fine. If you can, soak the rear nuts and bolts in GT85 or something similar, as they are the ones that will be rusty due to being exposed to the elements. If you chock the front wheels, and put the rear of the car on axle stands, you will be fine. Just remember to remove the back box, or drop it off the hangers, dont bother struggling to do it with it on.

  8. Did mine on the drive,and the only major issues were the bolt for the rear arb on the LH side, as you have to remove the headlight leveler first, cant remember which one, but one was a PITA, and a slightly different size, so keep an eye out for that. Getting the exhaust dropped/removed is a must on your drive,trust me,spent atleast an hour trying to get it off without removing the back box. Gave up in the end and dropped the brackets that hold the back box up and did it that way. Doing the front was easy, took me 3 hours, and that was with alot of faffing and poking around under the car. 2 hours tops i reckon for that. Its a rewarding job to do yourself, felt very proud after it was all done.

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