larsdowg

19 hours ago, Zalas said:

Hi Coz, thread jump... are the Ultra racing designed to replace the OEM brace or (as was called out in separate threads) designed to be used as-well-as/in addition to OEM?

Hi there Zalas,

It replaces the original OEM W Brace. Really good bit of kit, in my opinion better than OEM.

I took the OEM one off, put my foot on it and folded it in half and my 2004 ZED has only done 27k miles.

Highly recommend, plus change the member stays as they were rotten too.

I recommend buying both bolt packs too as the old bolts required a lot of penetration oil and a couple a blowtorch to persuade out.

Hope this helps.

Stay safe.

Hi there,

I have a Nissan 350Z 2004 plate and I am looking at changing the W Brace as it is corroded and needs replacing.
While under the car I thought I would change the rear member stays RH/LH also as they are heavily corroded and would make sense to do at the same time.

I assume if I buy this:

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/20421-350z-nissan-oem-rear-suspension-member-stay-bracket-with-hardware-kit-right-55451-cd001.html

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/20422-350z-nissan-oem-rear-suspension-member-stay-bracket-with-hardware-kit-left-55452-cd001.html

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/20746-350z-ultra-racing-rear-lower-brace-4-points-rl4-1259.html

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/5596-350z-nissan-oem-w-brace-hardware-kit-74870-cd200-hwk.html

I will be covered for all parts and replacement bolts? Or do I need another 4 of these for each side re the Stay Braces? As I note I need to remove 2 bolts (supplied) and 3 nuts but only 1 is supplied?

Also would I be able to get any discount please for being a member of the 350Z foum and what would be the leadtime on the parts to mainland UK deliver?

Many thanks in advance
Larsdowg aka Rick

Valy do you remember how you removed them?

 

Great Thread, I bought a 2nd set of front wipers the other week so I could take my time doing them while the others stay on the car.

Just attacked them with the Dremel as they are the same as mine (a real mess)

Has anyone attempted to remove the 'Water jet washer nozzles' from the wiper arms (2 on one arm 1 on the other), seems like they could break easily. I was going to mask them off but if I could remove them all the better job.

Any tips?

 

Cheers

Ended up putting on Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 ......... car coming out in few days beginning of May.

Lets see how they fair.......I won't be doing much mileage as garage it in the winter now so doesn't really matter if I eat them.

Thanks for the advice and comments guys/gals

Just a heads up aswell i was only offered A17 touch up kit they never mentioned A17R too me.

 

Well I must trust a fellow Ginger Datsun owner.....

Curious to know about the trim codes though if thats what it is? Can't seem to find a list of trim levels/colours online. As I say I only got this one from my VIN on the VIN checker site.

 

What colour are your wheels btw? I did mine in Nissan Skyline KH2 Gun Metal a while back (see previous posts) Think dark looks really good with Sunset Orange

Hi all,

 

thought this would be easy until I got to Halfords....

 

So I though Sunset Orange (Euro) or Le Mans Sunset (USA) was A17 paint code.

So took a picture of my VIN plate and it has written on it 'Color,Trim' A17 R

 

 

I assumed the R was trim level or colour of trim until I got to Halfords, then this confused me...

 

They have 2 codes for my year under 'A17'

 

and 'A17/R'

 

Then looking on.. (to check my VIN I get the following details)

http://www.vindecode...N/check-lookup/

 

Body color

A17 - ORANGE Interior color R - ORANGE

Which makes me think mines must be 'A17' colour code and Trim Level 'R' ??

However not 100% sure so thought I would put a post up....

 

Any help appreciated, as I don't want to 'touch up' the wrong colour code on my pride and joy.

Many thanks in advance

Lars

Thanks for the reply Ekona, MPSS it is then. Also here are a couple of pics of my 911, enjoy (I do!).

Very very nice!!

Sounds like a good price to me, same price for front and rear?

Fronts coming in at £141, life left in my Fronts though....... so won't swap these yet. Will just have to run with a mixed set for a bit. Not ideal.....but needs must.

You're right in saying rusty parts need to be treated first, just spraying over them with underseal is fairly pointless.

 

If you treat them first with a good rust converter, I have found Blit Hamber products to be good for that http://www.bilthambe...ion-treatments.

 

Then for sealing the metal POR-15 is excellent.

 

Dinitrol so a really good cavity wax for the box sections and hidden areas and I have found Terrotex HV350 good for converting steel suspension parts.

 

Its not expensive if you do it yourself just time consuming to do properly but very worthwhile as no 350Z came with proper protection, UK or Import.

 

For the cavity wax you will need an air compressor and underseal gun, some good products on here http://www.rust.co.uk/

 

Looking at doing under the arches of the car first....

looking at this site they have a 3 step process:

http://www.por15.com/ 1)POR-15^® Cleaner Degreaser 2)POR-15^® Metal Prep 3)POR-15^® Rust Preventive Coating

 

On this site http://www.rust.co.uk/rusty-s-tips-how-to-use-fe-123-converter-/c32751/

To enable the converter to work well do not degrease the area with a white spirit, diesel or paraffin as the oil in these products will prevent the Fe-123 from reacting.

 

Assume this is just the difference in products though.....

 

I only have axle stands, I was looking at doing under the wheel arches first and then working from there........

 

But I will be taking it off the road now every Winter as I don't want the nasty salt to kill my 350Z

Well if price isn't an issue, then the only sensible option is the MPSS. Best tyres you can get full stop, short of the semi-slick stuff.

 

I've done 10k miles on my set, and they're far from looking remotely worn on the rears. Fronts looked like new!

Michelin Pilot Super Sports..... £153 fitted/per tyre on Black Circle sound about right?

Whats the decision behind Toyo, is it price or just based on recommendation?

 

O/T slightly but Camskill have good prices on Rainsports at the moment and they would get my money over Toyos:

http://www.camskill....:_2_Noise:_72dB - £80

Loving the tyre profile on the UniRoyal

Thanks for all the replies. I had the F1's on a WRX Sti Prodrive with approx 330bhp, it ate a set in under 7,000 miles.

 

The Falkens on the ZED rears have lasted about 9-10k (not sure if that's good or bad) Standard setup 'Ekona'.

 

Going to garage the car as I'm wanting to keep it away from the grit and salt now as its 11 years old and I want to keep it now, had it 7 years and become quite attached to it. (think that's the start of another post!)

Toyo T1-Sports where recommended by 'Gardner Douglas Sports Cars Ltd' they put them on Cobra replica's pushing 450bhp plus........ but thinking about it they will probably only use them in the 'dry/good weather' as they are open topped cars.

So interesting feedback 'James'...food for thought. I don't do that many miles now so tyre price isn't really an issue, I just don't want to put something on that ruins the cars handling. Did this once years ago with a Mitsubishi MIVEC FTO (wasn't great to start with, but it was rubbish afterwards). Never run with Pilot Sports before........

What mileage can I expect from F1's?

Hi all,

 

looking at changing my Falken F-452 tyres which I have loved but now they don't make them.

 

Some friend with performance cars have rated the GoodYear Eagle F1, but I have eaten a set of these already....

I like the Falken but.............this might sound odd, don't like the tread pattern on the FK-453.

 

I have heard the T1-Sport is a very good tyre.

 

Anyone driven with both or either and can give me their opinion please?

 

Many thanks

Lars

Did them both in the end, about £8 from Eurocarparts and about £25 from Amazon for the other one 'blueprint'

 

thank again for everyone's help on this one,

 

cheers

After pealing, painted the area again.......... it doesn't seem to have lifted again.

Although I do like the floor 'Ebized' posted earlier. The ZED is being SORN'd soon so I might get the floor tiles next year.

Time to try the 'Sahara car cover' too I bought about 6-9 months ago

A guy at work who is well up on this stuff says, although it takes longer to charger the Optimate 4 is the one to get.

I have since had this back on my car and it does the job brilliantly.

 

I'm going to buy another Optimate 4 so I have one for the bike and car.

Hi all,

 

I have been using (as I already had one) an Optimate 4 to trickle charge my 350Z battery...........

 

Is this wrong or should I be using an Optimate 5 ot 6??

 

I'm just confused looking at the models:

 

http://www.optimate.co.uk/cg020001.htm

 

Many thanks in advance for any help

Lars

You need to tell us what type of garage, is it open, closed ,brick wall, cement floor is sealed or not maybe photos etc

 

etc .

 

Closed double garage. ...

Brick build. ...

Sealed concrete. ...

 

I didn't want to tile the whole floor just an edged section to park the ZED on

 

Cheers

Lars

Lots of threads on Pistonheads about using the tiles

Cheers I shall hop on and have a read tonight thanks

See this topic:

 

http://www.350z-uk.c...floor-painting/

 

Thanks Randy, I have read this but wondered if anyone had had a bit more experience of Foam/Plastic tiles..... and had actually laid these in their own garage

Result

 

However have you had no brakes since your last post in June. ?

 

No I had a new baby ....... and time seemed to vanish into a huge black hole or into a small brown nappy

Hi all,

 

read lots of things online about garage floor paints. Bought some very good stuff, but it keeps lifting................I keep painting the area, leave it a few weeks, keeps lifting!!

 

So thought I would go floor tiles.......... worked out I need 8m squared to park the ZED on.

I don't want to spend a fortune, but am fed up of the peeling floor in my man cave.

 

Can anyone HELP ME PLEASE and end my 'pealing pain'!!

 

Cheers

Lars

Just to comment on my last

Hi all,

 

I have an issue on the front drivers side hard line. The thread is rusted at the top and the new pipe will not screw up far enough.

I can't be the only person who has had this issue................. can this be rethread using a die or does anyone know the nut size/thread to run a nut up and down the rusty part.

Passenger side front and rear has gone on no issues...................but left with a leaking front drivers side.

 

HELP HELP HELP

 

Many thanks in advance

Lars

 

Ended up getting a pipe nut, opened the end up and ran it up and down the thread with WD-40 until the rust was removed.

This worked out and all new pipes fitted and stopping power is a lot better than OEM 'in my humble opinion'

 

Thanks everyone for your help

Lars

Hi all,

 

I have an issue on the front drivers side hard line. The thread is rusted at the top and the new pipe will not screw up far enough.

I can't be the only person who has had this issue................. can this be rethread using a die or does anyone know the nut size/thread to run a nut up and down the rusty part.

Passenger side front and rear has gone on no issues...................but left with a leaking front drivers side.

 

HELP HELP HELP

 

Many thanks in advance

Lars