sss107 Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Hopefully not a daft question! Ive been doing the above with Autoleads sound deadening for the vibrations, have done the usual (around the speakers and the door) but still get some vibration mainly just above the driver and passenger arm rest of the door. My question is..should I put some on the plastic door inside (will it make any difference?) Or should I just plaster more on the metal door panel) Is sound deadening purely for metal parts? Help much appreciated - don't laugh if im asking something daft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RisingPower Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Someone else will probably come in and correct me on this, but as i'm aware there are noise barriers, dampers and other foamy stuff for rattles. Damping mats go on sheet metal. Just at a guess, maybe something like overkill is what you need? http://www.secondskinaudio.com/products ... -Audio.php From here, but maybe you could try luxury liner in the doors and sort out a bit more road noise at the same time? http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/second- ... r-pro.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Usually the main goal of sound deadening is to add mass. If you are outside the car and knock on the door it should make a thud thud noise. If it makes a high pitched sort of tinny noise then yes use some more sound deadening. Rising power you are right but generally I have found they work better in non moving bits like boots and bulkheads but this doesnt mean its not suited for the doors because of the moving windows but this is purley IMO. Also to the OP I personally wouldnt bother putting sound deadening on your platisic door card. I would layer more of the door if the full inside isnt done. If it is done I would look at putting on another layer. Also are you using baffles? What power you running to your mids? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RisingPower Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Rising power you are right but generally I have found they work better in non moving bits like boots and bulkheads but this doesnt mean its not suited for the doors because of the moving windows but this is purley IMO. Fair enough, i'm wondering myself whether to get luxury liner in the door when I finally get around to getting some decent speakers in the door after deadening them See, i'm just wondering whether it would be the closed cell foam like in overkill or the open cell eggfoam like stuff which presumably would be better as it would expand to fill the gaps in trim? Presumably it doesn't get moist around the inner skin/door card? http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/silent- ... er-35.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sss107 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Cheers guys, will have a look at those other options I have Rainbow Deluxe 265's 80RMS components with Infinity 475a amp. Think the amp is running 4x80RMS (although tbh, think ill just disconnect the rears - makes zero differnece!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Do you have them mounted on mdf baffles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sss107 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 I just butchered the stock ones! Is there an improvement in mdf 's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I just butchered the stock ones! Is there an improvement in mdf 's? I personally thougt the orginal ones where very thin and more of something to make speakers fit there than something solid to sit on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helimeddaz Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Only just seen this m8, hence the delay. I had the same issues with the door speakers when I upgraded and upped the watts a little (namely 2 amps. (900 4 way and 1000watt mono block). The doors were horrid. Buzzed and vibrated. If you look at the grills they are only half drilled and the speakers well back in the door. So a lot of the sound is directed and trapped inside, hence it will vibrate. The options are drill the rest of the holes (nightmare, I didn't), but mainly the door interior need to come apart and have good quality sound matting put in everywhere. From the outed skin to the lock cables. Not an easy job, so get pro help if you can. Mine are very good now. A test is knock on the door and if the sound is dull and dead your there. if it sounds like a baked bean tin, well you see my point. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RisingPower Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 The doors were horrid. Buzzed and vibrated. If you look at the grills they are only half drilled and the speakers well back in the door. So a lot of the sound is directed and trapped inside, hence it will vibrate. The options are drill the rest of the holes (nightmare, I didn't), but mainly the door interior need to come apart and have good quality sound matting put in everywhere. From the outed skin to the lock cables. Not an easy job, so get pro help if you can. I'm just thinking of giving this a go wrt the speaker grilles: http://my350z.com/forum/audio-video-and ... rills.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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