steve3000

Sorry if my post sounded like I was getting wound up - no offence was meant! I just honestly couldn't understand what I'd done wrong. Now I see that other people are photographing card with their username on it makes sense...

Did you write your username & date on a piece of paper and take a picture of the item with that in the frame?

Quite clear that you need a photo with the username on it, usually on a bit of paper or card, to prove you have the items.

Thanks all especially - sasha and Chris for the fast replies, that's all I need to do then

Steve

* A photograph with your user name and the item(s) must be posted at the time of placing the advert

Ah ok, fair enough - but I understood this as: you must provide a photo, along with your username, date, etc. etc.

Never even considered it to mean you'd need a photo of your username.

Especially as I'd posted other items for sale the day before, and had been accepted, which didn't have my username in the photo... hence the confusion...

Steve

Ok, I posted a for sale thread yesterday, with a price, picture of the item, full description and location.

And it was rejected for having no picture???

Who checks these things?

Please sort this system out - if you're going restrict what people post, please Mr. admin - stick to your rules and allow posts that actually do comply. Also, the "Forum rules" information is completely out of date with regards the vetting of all posts in the for sale section. This is where people look to understand your rules, so please can you update this?

And finally, there is no mention in the rules, or contact sections, of who the OP can complain to if their post has been incorrectly denied. Hence my posting here. Now who do I contact to get my for sale thread up?

Cheers,

Steve

Thanks for the question, they were refurbished at my local garage.

However, these are now sold.

Steve

Having sold my Z, I now have for sale a perfect set of Rays alloys fitted with near new Bridgestone RE040 Potenzas along with a full set of Nissan wheel nuts + 5 locking-nuts and key. This set is ideal for upgrading an import Z to GT spec alloys.

The alloys themselves were refurb'd last year and had new Bridgestone RE040 Potenzas all round. Currently the front tyres are at 6.5mm and the rears are just over 6mm. Pictures below - these alloys have no scuff marks and no kerbing at all.

Front left

Front right

Rear left

Rear right

Priced at £600. Cash on collection only

Please PM me with any questions. Thanks for looking,

Steve

I've just tried posting replies on my for sale thread and editing the price, and now my thread has disappeared completely! - I assume this is part of the problem you're working on?

BTW - I agree with the idea, but it does sound like a lot of work for you guys. The way I've seen it done before, quite successfully - is to limit 'for sale' threads to just a single post, and only allow the OP to edit or add to his original post - so replies by PM only.

Also, you might want to stick a notice up on the 'for sale' section somewhere about this problem - it took me a few minutes of searching to find this thread.

Cheers,

Steve

PM sent.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sports-car-long-l ... 286.c0.m14

 

They are a little on the pricey side and I am unsure if the Z will get up these even?

Yes, you might well struggle with those.

However, for a good trick at bargain £££...

...use bricks

Pop into your local DIY store, find a few bricks of different thicknesses, I use about 10 per side - just make sure they are solid and not hollow! Then build your own ramps, when required

Steve

Mine passed too Second time through with a cleared out fog light and red LED bulb, so for those that worry like me, its fine.

 

And I dont think they stalled it with the lightweight flywheel after I warned them about it

Excellent! Mine passed today too - it's nice to have a 100% reliable 6 year old car... And they were perfectly happy with my LED fog light too

Steve

Hey, yes that'd be why then nice one!

Will keep an eye out next time I'm over Royston way!

Steve

Humm, very good point! I've updated the ad accordingly.

Cheers,

Steve

Considering putting my Z up for sale...

Great condition blade Silver 2003 '53' reg 350z.

No modifications, just the standard GT-spec features:

Climate control

BOSE 6-CD stereo system

Full black heated leather interior

Xenon headlights

18" Rays alloys

Currently on 60k miles. Had a new JTW clutch fitted in 2008. Had oil changes every 4-5k, recent full coolant flush and (within last 5k miles) fitted with all-round new discs and pads (EBC grooved sports discs, Endless VN pads), Denso spark plugs, PIAA wiper blades and a clear rear fog lens

Serviced last week, tax'd and MOT'd. Priced at: No longer for sale

**27/2/2010 - Back up for sale, see new ad here: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=33170**

Steve

On Tuesday? If so - Guilty well spotted!

I was heading from Duxford to Stevenage on the A505, set off at 4.30pm, so would have been near Royston at 5pm (and definately ready to hit the gas as I got to the dual carridgeway at Royston!). Spotted a sunset Z near the M11 - who flashed his lights - Not sure I spotted you though?

Steve

Just the one nipple each on the non-brembos, very easy job

(if the nips are a bit rusty, spray with wd40 the day before to make the process easier/less likely to damage them)

Steve

To me it all comes down to how many miles you are expecting to put on the car yourself. I bought a reasonably high-miler Z at the time, simply because I knew I'd only put 4-5k on her per year. And buying a well cared for high miler with good service history is infinitely better than getting a low miler that's only ever been driven to/from the shops - remember most engine wear happens as the engine warms up, first 15 minutes/10 miles of driving.

Steve

Thanks for the tip - will drop them a line.

Cheers,

Steve

As per the title really - I've lost my MAF sensor housing for my Z and want to revert to standard air box. The bit I'm after is the short plastic tube which the MAF sensor bolts into - it sits inbetween the air box and the intake tube to manifold.

Have everything else I need (including the sensor itself)...

I don't suppose anyone has one lying around that they won't be needing again?

Thanks for looking,

Steve

You just need a ruler and your thumb - as in step 1. Line up the ruler, keep it in held the same position as you press down on the old belt, and see how many mm you can push the belt. After fitting the new belt, repeat the same and adjust the new belt so you can push it down the same distance as with the old belt.

Steve

Just BUMP this one up. I didn't take up the first two offers as my job decided to put me up for redundancy back in Jan. But anyhow, now time has moved on and I'm back looking for one of these tyres.

Please let me know if you have one going spare

Cheers,

Steve

Wow, that's a worryingly well put together scam! - notice how the whole page is faked, you can't check the seller's feedback (not a clicky) and they've invented a payment method called 'ebay approved money transfer'...guarenteed to £20,000

Steve

I had one decoded to delivery mode for £25 last year. All I did was pick up a copy of yellow pages and rang round the local car auido centres, asking if they can decode a Nissan 350z stereo (model no.: PP-2596L, Clarion part no. 286-6243-00, Nissan part no. 28188 CD700). The place I found wasn't sure if they could at first, but said the stereo was similar to other Nissan units which they'd done successfully in the past, so gave it a go and worked fine.

Steve

you would need to get the head unit reprogrammed into 'delivery mode' by a dealer or audio electrician, you will need to get the second hand unit reprogrammed to link with the security system on your car (or it won't work!). according to steve http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... light=mode

True. The UK and EU 350z oem (ie. 'nissan' and 'bose') stereos are locked to work only with the car they were originally fitted to, via the NATS security system. A good autoelectrician or audio dealer/technician who can do proper car stereo unlocking/decoding (ie. take the unit apart and re-write the eeprom code) should not have a problem setting the unit to 'delivery mode' so it will register and lock to the next car it's fitted to.

2 points. (1) this does not apply to JDM stereos (because apparently people don't steal car stereos in Japan, so no security on these ) and (2) the 1000's of 'instant decoding' websites that claim to be able to give you a 4 digit code to unlock your stereo won't work with these units, so beware of these.

Steve

FYI spotted it earlier on ebay too (note the statement "no reasonable offer refused"): http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2007-NISSAN-350-Z ... 240%3A1318

But be cautious unless you plan on owning it for a while, there's better to be had for that sort of money.

Steve

Hello,

It's a well known problem I'm afraid. The cause I believe is a poor internal connection between the CD changer unit and the headunit circuitry.

Replacement with a brand new unit will solve the issue, but will be really expensive. If you do this, make sure it comes with a decent warenty.

Replacement with a reconditioned unit (which is what Nissan will probably be offering you) should solve the issue, but again be careful and make sure you get a warenty, because a reconditioned unit may throw up other problems in the future.

Replacement with a fully working second hand unit would also solve the issue, and probably be the cheapest option if you want to keep the BOSE setup - but unless the second hand unit has already been reprogrammed into 'delivery mode' by a dealer or audio electrician, you will need to get the second hand unit reprogrammed to link with the security system on your car (or it won't work!).

There's also a trader on the forum who offers a reconditioning service to repair your old system (try a search), not sure if anyone's used them and what the costs are?

Cheers,

Steve

I have often wondered how you change the JDM speedo to read in MPH, Who does this and how is it done?.

 

Just for interest really

 

Dan

If you're driving an imported car in the UK it should be reading in MPH already - the conversion is done prior to the SVA test by the importing company, as it is a requirement that imported cars are converted to read in mph in order to pass the SVA.

Two usual methods of doing this to a new (unconverted) import:

1) swap the jdm cluster for a UK cluster so the speed signal is interpreted by the UK cluster and displayed in mph (advantages: looks professional, disadvantages: very expensive to buy a new cluster (££££!), second hand clusters would need to reset the mileage counter or use the mileage from the donor car, also you'd need to replace the centre digital speedo/temperature gauge with a UK one, or this will continue to show speed in kph)

2) fit a kph-mph conversion chip to the ecu speed signal output wire and pop a piece of black tape over the 'K' of the 'KMPH' sign on the JDM cluster. This chip reduces the kilometres per hour signal frequency to match miles per hour (divides it by 1.4 approx). (advantages: quick to install and effectively converts the digital centre gauge too, so no need to change that - and as a bonus some conversion chips include a speed-restriction delimiter so if you have one of these you won't be limited to 112mph, disadvantages: the piece of tape of the 'k' of the 'kmph' looks a bit amature, and the digital centre gauge still shows the 'kph' symbol even though the speed is in mph)

Steve