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Mr.T

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Posts posted by Mr.T

  1. It wasn't purchased from dealer, lol very subtle changes yeah I shud have noticed these changes big time! I thought the environmental controls having silver rings round them meant that aswell. If Auto Trader were able to help and did prve to advertise 313 hp I dunno if I cud do much as it could have been a genuine mistake and down to me to check, it did mention face lift but that is true as the 2005 model was 276 hp? Oh well just have to mod it to f**k! to get that extra 17hp back LOL

     

    The 313 model wasn't available until Sep 07 delivery, I know I had to wait for one, the 06 model is indeed the facelift model with revised bumbers, head/tail lights and introducing the rev up engine with a 7k limiter, from the 06 to the 313, no interior revisions other then the rev counter reading up to 9K with 7.5K limit, so they both have the revised haeter/climate controls with the silver rings, revised gear lever surround and re-positioned hazard light switch, both have revised door cards with cup holders.

     

    As already mentioned just enjoy the car now and if it's really bugging you then swap it out for a 313 or even a 370 as that version of the HR motor is even more impressive.

  2. What year is the car and howmany miles has it done? 2mm left on the pad after 8000 miles does point to possible caliper being siezed.. Is that 2mm on the front set or the rear set, I am presuming you replaced the front pads? Apologies in advance if you've already posted which set.

  3. There is one on my temper and the exhaust note on tickover absolutely sweet, motorway speeds 70/80 absolutely no problem with nice pur, jump on the loud pedal hard and all of a sudden you can hear the full mass of decibles, still very composed in the cabin, but from the outside it has a note to die for...

  4. Holy thread revival Batman!

     

     

    I have a new sound that I think is relevant to this thread so I figured I'd post.

     

    1st to 2nd has become a nightmare in my 2007. Hot/cold it doesn't matter. It clunks when cold as expected but sometimes does it when warm. Now this is the new one. Hot or cold it doesn't matter. It sounds like a turbo dump wush sound. I actually find myself looking at the gear stick every time it does it.

     

    2nd to 3rd is a bit grindy.

     

    3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th seem fine.

     

    Sometimes she feels down on power.

     

    And, she randomly started to splutter when accelerating slowly. (I live in the city) It's like a learner driver kangaroo hopping. Doesn’t happen when pulling away. Only when already moving. The cure is to accelerate harder but she shouldn't be doing it at all. She'll do this at random between 1st, 2nd, 3rd. It's as if she's being starved of fuel.

     

    If the markets hadn't gone to @*!# I'd of traded her in for a 370 already but now she's with me long term.

     

    Will talk to the garage today and book her in for next week. Anyone got a copy of the synco TSB?

     

    Ummm had a similar problem regarding the kangaroo hopping, read my post reply in the thread link below..

     

    http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18540&highlight=

  5. I've heard that the 309 model has an illuminated ignition socket as well!! :yahoo:

     

    why they felt the need to do this i have no idea but i guess the designers needed to do something!

     

    I think you'll find that it was introduced on the 06 model, along with the revised interior..

  6. Yep typical Nissan trait I'm afraid, mines done it since new and so have all the other, sometimes it sounds like a diesel stood still, but you learn to live with it.. If you dip the clutch the while stationary the noise should almost disappear, that should prove that it's a noisey clutch release bearing and nothing else..

  7. Hi,

     

    Your best bet would be Glyn Hopkins in MK, they don't like shifting from the set price menu so haggle, my 1st service was with them (P1 @ £283) and my last was at Mill Hill London (P2 @ £141 - own oil supplied), I had to haggle with Mill Hill on the price.

     

    In between the car has an oil change every 3k.

     

    Thanks

  8. Bumpers never really match metal bodywork nomatter what the colour, a lot of it is to do with bumpers being plastic.

    The static build up is higher in plastic parts and causes the metallic particles to react in a different way than on steel, hence a `colour` change.

    Its not really a change in colour but the way the light hits the particles and reflects different shades.

     

    Temperature and humidity will also affect colours, mostly lighter metallics, as will air pressure at the gun and someone else painting a different part of the car even with the same paint from the same gun!

     

    I think manufacturers will not guarentee a match on plastic parts even though bodyshops are expected to when doing a repair but could be wrong.

     

    Remeber also they will be mixing very small amounts of paint so harder to get the exact mix correct although with todays technology it is very close even with the smallest amounts. Saying that you could mix 25 gallons and still not get the right shade.

    Normally a good painter will pick a the closest variant from a colour chip, spray it out on a card, clear coat it, check for match then maybe tint to suit or try a different variant.

     

    If you really look hard at the bumpers to bodywork you will probably notice a slight difference even from factory. So what i got carried away in saying is the trick is to find a really good painter who will just get the best match they can.

     

    Good luck buddy

     

    So true.. my colour looks different on every plastic itemed panel then on metal and even on metal if keep staring at you will start to see alsorts of things going on, very good to look at the temper but when your picky like me and have a tendancy of washing the car personally, you notice everything good or bad..

  9. xStric9x and rentech - do you know which version of the RE050's you have? Do you have the "Pole Positions"?

     

    I am on my second set of RE050A's, they have to be the ADZ compound which is specific to the 'Z' 2007 onwards, the only other car to use this compound is the RX8, sometimes the compound is in short supply from Bridgestone so you have ring around, failing that using the common compound almost nets the same result.

     

    For reference the treadwear on the RE050A's is 140, TOYO's 280 & Falkens 300, now in theory lower the treadwear softer the compound but this sometimes is not nessesary always the case as the tyre wall stiffness also starts coming into play, hence the Bridgestone characteristic of it being low grip when in cold weather but good when it's warm, soft tread but stiffer wall, this is a dry weather tyre first and foremost and to get the best out of any tyre they need heat build up before the grip comes to full par.

  10. Hmmm, I am fitting the Nismo wheels this weekend (weather permitted) and we shall see. If I do Nismo kit the car, then I think the LMGT-4 wheels will have to go on to fill the arches.

     

    To be honest I think I might have to sell the GT4 wheels as I can't justify keeping them as I need the cash to pay for insurance....it ain't cheap to insure at 21! :surrender::lol:

     

    Spot on call, the NISMO's are made by RAYS and therefore much superior quality then the std GT4 wheel and although 19's probably still a lot lighter then the std items, but the key point is to fill those arches..

     

    Nice motor by the way...

     

    Are the GT4 ltd edition wheels not made by RAYS?

     

    No Stew have a look at the following link the weight gives it away and no RAYS stamping on the wheel either, also non UK cars for 07 model came with the GT4 wheels standard and looking at 350 at Mill Hill in thier showroom the 08 UK cars now seem to have the GT4 wheel standard as opposed to the RAYS depending on the stock cut over date.

     

    Initially the GT4 wheel was introduced to the 35th anniversary model in 2005 and then for the UK 176 GT4's, the yellow was available on the domestic market as one of the many colour along with the white and purple, but the yellow in the UK was only availble on the GT4 and the white replaced the temper in 08, never got the purple in the UK which was a shame as that too is a beautiful colour in the flesh.

     

    http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/350Z_OEM_Wheel_Specifications

  11. Hmmm, I am fitting the Nismo wheels this weekend (weather permitted) and we shall see. If I do Nismo kit the car, then I think the LMGT-4 wheels will have to go on to fill the arches.

     

    To be honest I think I might have to sell the GT4 wheels as I can't justify keeping them as I need the cash to pay for insurance....it ain't cheap to insure at 21! :surrender::lol:

     

    Spot on call, the NISMO's are made by RAYS and therefore much superior quality then the std GT4 wheel and although 19's probably still a lot lighter then the std items, but the key point is to fill those arches..

     

    Nice motor by the way...

  12. depends on the year, 18" rays were not standard on the non gt on earlier models

     

    RAYS were not standard on GT models either...... :)

     

    they are on both now :thumbs:

     

    +1 RAYS std on both versions from 06 onwards..

  13. Anyone wishing to purchase Bridgestones then do 2 things,

     

    1. Make sure they are RE050A

    2. Ensure the compound letters are ADZ, you will find these letters on the sidewall.

     

    ADZ compound is specific to the MY07, they are hard to get hold but not impossible, tyretraders.com are usually a good starting point.

  14. I've said it before but I'll say it again, the customer 'service' recieved by Nissan is a joke. It is horrendous and although I love my Zed I would NEVER buy a Nissan in warranty again as it's a waste of time.

     

    Sorry Nissan but this is a real problem for 90% of the owners and it's putting people off.

     

    SORT IT OUT!

     

    +1

     

    10 years worth Nissan dealer experience and unfortunately all the same, Glyn Hopkins in Milton Keynes don't seem too bad but they will not budge on thier servicing prices but it's a fairly new dealer to MK.

     

    Personally I can't wait for it to be out of warranty, they just cannot be trusted..

     

    The book now has 2 stamps and neither of them have the logo, yet though a friend mine has 6 stamps in his book all with the logo, I just laugh, all good fun though as I cannot fault the car.

     

    I am sure there must be that one dealer out there some where with real customer focus.

  15. Right, last time I did this I had those fellows at ESR to help me through.....

     

    Car needs a P2, coming up for 45k on the clock.

     

    Few questions:-

     

    1. What oil do I need? Last time I think I used Millers 15W 30 or 10W 40.

    2. Price to fit spark plugs is £120 - is this reasonable?

    3. Price for the platinum OEM plugs is £87.01 - is this reasonable? Are there 'better' ones out there?

    4. To do the service (excl. oil) is £230 - any views??

    5. Anyone know of a trader that supplies Motul RBF 600 brake fluid? (so I can fit my new brakes! :teeth: )

     

    Thanks! :)

     

    Just had mine done at Mill Hill Nissan, they quoted originally £362, I then spoke to the service manager (Peter) quoting that someone via this forum had a P2 done for £199, he then agreed the same deal.

     

    I supplied the oil 5w 30 (Motul 300V) as it was only a 18K service no plugs, believe it or not they did not have the air filters in stock for my car, although they had known it was due in about 2 wks prior to day itself.

     

    Total bill ex. filters & oil was £141 all in, which wasn't bad all in all..

     

    Denso Plugs highly recommended or Greddy..

     

    Just a note for any HR owners:

     

    At the first oil change around 4k we tried a slightly thicker oil 10w 40 (Motul 300V), this gave the car very wierd sympton, basically between 1700/2200 rpm when cold it would struggle to rev cleanly through it, almost sounding like a slight misfire. Dropped the oil again and replaced it with the recommended 5w 30, problem disappeared.

     

    The later engine seems to be critical on which oil viscosity, across the pond they seem to be seeing this problem a lot on HR engined cars. All we could work out is that around 1700/2200 rpm is possibly where the variable valve timing comes into play and if the oil is too thick it seems to a problem when cold, it eventually does dial itself out once warm but low speed driving was almost impossible when cold.

     

    If anyone has experienced anything similar then please let me know, would be interesting to share some notes.

     

    Thanks

  16. Mines done it on the same osf calliper since it's 1st service @ 9k, we re-lubed the backing plate that the pads are bonded to with copper grease & no more squeak, went in for it's 2nd service @ 18.5k, squeak back & again we re-greased it upon it's return & all fine thereafter.

     

    They tend to clean the brakes upon inspection with whatever chemical & for some reason the osf calliper always comes back squeaking.

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