Yella Fella

Well we used my mates android phone with torque software and it only brought up basic feedback, it couldn't read the code on my z, and yes it is uk spec.

I'd buy one, just need them to be able to read the CEL codes

Hi all, I believe the Nissan requires an extended code set to be able to read the manufacturers codes and not just generic ones. Is canbus a requirement as seen that word tagged on to Nissan specific readers on eBay?

I want a straight up hardware reader rather than one that plus into android/iPhone/laptop

I've seen costs from £30 to £50-£70 in eBay pending function and quality? Just want one that can clear codes and can read full Nissan codes obviously. Cheers

2000-3000 revs for a rasp sounds about right to me, mine does it at those revs.

 

As for the bracket on the decats, most half decent decats should have brackets to fix them to the car.

Never realised the notorious rasp is actually a rattle haha, now I know. Damn metal rattlesnake, so much for resonated decats

Neil being doing some research on google and seen you comment on a thread a year ago about similar issue...

When I drive the car hard and use engine braking or decelerating around 3000-2000 revs, it sounds like some sort of mental loud as hell metallic rattle. Like my car is falling apart, crazy. Surely that's not the rasp that's known with decats? That's proper nuts!

Now I know I've got issues with my OEM exhaust that needs replacing at some point (any excuse haha), I've also noticed whilst I was underneath my cat the the OEM y pipe has got extensive welding on a lot of the joints. I was comparing it to another OEM y pipe that's currently on sale here, and that looks plain Jane compared to mine.

No I meant it feels it's directly below where I'm sat, as I'm that area. Not actually vibrating my seats

I did this last night with thanks to neighbours flood lights and my camping head lamps, working till 8:30pm I did the drivers side, literally greased the collars,of the cv joint and spline itself. All fine, no clicking so far... Tempted to do the other side before I return mate's digital snap on torque wrench

Could meet you half way...any excuse to give the car a run now iv fixed the traction issue

I was gonna do the axle grease fix...

Where's best half way for you?

Guys,

For those that have hfc or decats installed, I've noticed that the OEM brace is removed along with the factory cats, with this being only tied by nuts/bolts, does anyone notice any further rattling directly underneath the seats when driving hard? Or any other noise? Vibration etc

If anyone needs to know this, I believe these are the correct figment sizes...

M8

14mm head

40mm

1.5 thread pitch

Stainless steel and heat resistance

Bit far to travel , waiting for my golf to get fixed so preferably a bit more local. Cheers though

Or around similar areas, need to read a CEL Error after installing the decats and doing an ecu reset, thanks

Think it was a grey one with what sounded like an aftermarket exhaust, you were passing Sam takeaway/star work in grange farm around 9:25pm ish.

I parked over in the car park whilst waiting for food.

Exhaust sounds deep, what are the mods?

Just to let you all know, connecting the blue/white cable to the head unit ISO loom's remote on, has worked! Ta-da music, cheers guys

Just to let you all know, connecting the blue/white cable to the head unit ISO loom's remote on, has worked! Ta-da music, cheers guys

Guys,

Just trying to fit new decat at the garage now and the OEM cat just has studs, no nuts/bolts, anyone know the sizes I need to fit the aftermarket part? Thanks

I'm blaiming the previous installer as all my previous ICE setups were done by myself... I can't believe I have missed this out

Well the original Pioneer loom has bullet connectors, so I'll get my friend to splice an additional part to it. Never have I had to splice/bullet up so many parts to a car's stereo loom before!

Remote amp connected? Its the blue/white cable

Where does that connect to from the ICT loom as that wire is still loose? Is it literally to the remote wire from the head unit's own remote blue wire?

Right, I've finally got round to grounding the wires as per Lexx's thread, all parts bought from incartec too. However the HU now comes on, but no sound, even connecting the RCA cables.

I know the speakers etc work as I've pulled out the Kenwood double din HU that was in there prior. The steering remotes work too, power gets saved, just no sound. Really can't figure it out, I never been this baffled with car audio till I had come across the Z!

Any ideas? Gonna try again over the weekend

The OEM parts worth anything before I bin them?

Got my decats in, definitely an excuse to order my cat back exhaust now... ahem

I definitely need to try this at some point, especially quoted £222 by Nissan to get this fixed as they call "fix issue 2".

Does the clicking actually affect the car in anyways in terms of wear/tear, it won't damage the car will it?

Plus does it have to be the marine and ball bearing grease, or can I just get the bog standard heavy duty ball bearing grease?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... ase&_sop=3

Around 2-3k revs, especially when accelerating between gears, my exhaust sounds like its making a weird echo/bellowing noise, its not high pitched or a scream... it almost sounds like a hollow noise.

Think something has gone exhaust side? Maybe I'm just making an excuse so I can get the Fast Intentions exhaust...

This is good for me, 55 reg 26 white led clear front

This mod works fine for both pre and post 06?

Haha that is a nice clean z!

Are the prices the same for external and internal clutch thing? And is is one easier to replace than the other? Thanks

If your Zed is the model with the slave cyl. on the outside of the gearbox, and not the internal concentric slave, then I would recommend the following.

 

Alex.

How can you tell which is which? I might have to get then both done, how much for these parts?