amsoil

Stop.

You clearly have a problem and everyone is and can guess what the cause is. Buy and oil analysis kit from here http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/tools.html right at the bottom (its at cost ) and then send the oil sample off to the Lab in Wales. It will take about 7 days for them to get back to you. Post the results on the forum on this thread or to me and we will try to work out whats going on. If you can think of a cheaper or more scientific and independant method of assessment please let me know.

Don't know if you chaps realise it but all oil will 'boil off' to some degree, not exactly but its the easiest way to discribe it. Cheaper oils will be more volatile than the high spec ones. It would not be uncommon for a 10-15% + loss to occur! The way to find out what your oils volatility is will be to look at its spec sheet; Noack Volatility is what you are looking for and you need the lowest you can find in whatever your choices of oil are. If the brand concerned doesn't publish such figures then don't buy it! I know that Amsoils figures are generally 5-7 dependant upon the oil, (I also know that these are some of the lowest figures you will find) but check the figures for your oil, if they are 9-10+ (quite likely) you will loose 1/2 as much again never mind the burning of the oil!

The next general rule is that if you have a car that is burning more oil that you think is acceptable you can reduce this by stepping up one thickness of oil, (ie it becomes harder to get past the rings and valve guides) Try a 5w-40 perhaps. What you want to steer clear of is a 0w-40 as this is often a weak oil that literally gets its viscosity improvers chopped up by the piston rings and so becomes thin and therefore burns.

Hope all this makes sense, try a low volitility oil for starters, as theres a lot more to good oil than most people think.

Could have got an Amsoil filter (they are far superior) Oders as SDF-12 and we will send you EA012 which is the new super dupa jobby

Best oil filters you can get are EAO series by Amsoil. 98.7% effiecency at 15 microns in a single pass. Clever how they do it but they are twice the proice of a normal filter, they will also take 5 time the muck out of the oil and last upto 25,000 miles https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx

If its a quality real synthetic then the 40 grade should be fine as synthetic have many times the strength of mineral oils. 60 grades should be left to drag race cars and WW2 Harleys. However 0w-40 is strtching things some and would generally require Viscocity improvers to allow such a variance. The V.I's can be literally chopped up by the rings and heat which will reduce the protection later in the oils life. Try a 5w-40 next time.

Another answer is here http://performanceoilsltd.co.uk/0w-30(2000).html

If you want a filter its SDF-12

There is a Club discount.

Anyone looking for super service and keen price might want to check these people out:- http://www.clubvr4.com/index.php?page=wrd?1

WRD motors. They are lean and keen and I have never heard a bad word said about them. They are enthusiasts who have an enviable reputation with Mitsubushi's and have started branching out to scobies etc. By all accounts bacon butties are on hand and you can watch or even get your hands dirty with them...

Just my 2 p's worth BTW they are in Stoke-on- Trent

I think I would keep a very close eye on the new tyres and at the 1st sign of the same wear happening consider adding .25 or even .5 degrees of camber. Bottom line is if the car is right and the tyres are right then it comes down to your driving style. Standing the tyres up to counteract this pattern may well be a cheap fix. The other way is uprated suspension etc which might ruin the ride at the cost of handling and is likely to cost some.

We are offering many grades of oil at 6 bottles for the cost of 5 if you have a look; (a saving of 17%) On top of this there is the 350Z club discount which can be added aswell (making a total of 25%) plus if you get 2 lots of 6 for the price of 5 ie 12 for the price of 10 you then get free carriage which could take the saving upto 1/3 ! Have a look see.

http://performanceoilsltd.co.uk/special.html

The now correct filter for the 350Z is the new Amsoil 12 which is a new technology filter superior to anything out there jobby http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx

If you order SDF-12 from our web site you will get EAO12 . The reason for it being shown as 'SDF' is that we havent fully changed over to the new filters yet. (the old number was 13 but with the new filters its 12 )

If you check in the 'discounts' section you will see that if you want you can get 6Qts of Amsoil 5w-30 for the cost of 5L plus the Club discount too.

Remember its only US quarts not UK; ie a total of 5.676L instead of 5L

so by my quick calcs thats just over 13.5 % extra for 10% less + about 8% if you hit the free carriage too.

Even more reason for everyone on the site to be an Amsoil user

Applicable to Amsoil ASL 5w-30 and Amsoil ATM 10w-30

Discount codes are :-

ASL 5w-30 = contact Moderators

ATM 10w-30 = contact Moderators

If you order 5L online at http://performanceoilsltd.co.uk/petrol_engine_oil.html

And type in the new codes not only will you get 10% off Amsoil products but also I will send you 6 x Quart bottles instead of the 5L you have ordered. + of course free carriage on orders over £100 as before. (Dont forget the SDF-12 filter)

You don't have to avail yourselves of this offer just type in the 'old' code and you will receive the 5L containers as before.

My warehouse is too small and the wait for a larger unit too long. With the larger orders and new lines I must reduce the quantity of cases of quarts I carry simply to create room. I will remove the codes when I have got the stock level down to where I need to be.

This is not a long term offer

Regards Don

Performance Oils Ltd

Amsoil is famous for having all its products tested against other leading brands in many ways. All these facts are easily found by searching. I am sure Guy at Opie will be equally delighted to take your money for the Amsoil he sells as for the Mobil etc. As for being best for a particular car ie the Z ? As I am sure you are aware (with one eye on the devils advocate bit) no one can say this for any car or product as there are just too many variables. All that you can say is that if you have the best at a competitive price you have a head start. As for the other two oils specifically mentioned, I do rate Motul and have always said so, No comment on the other as it is someone elses thread.

Drop me a line as I know there is 1 x USG of this oil in the SAE 30 in the warehouse that is looking for a home at 1/2 price (don't know why it came to us as we only import 5L

I am going to try Amsoil this time. 5W 30

 

Cheaper than Motul too

Good Man, also beats both in independant testing!

Best all round brake fluid we have ever found is ATE super blue. Made by one of the largest brake manufacturers in the world, ATE, and good for 3 years! Its very good at resisiting water uptake and I even use it in my race car as I dont really fancy flushing out real race fluid every 2 weeks which costs twice the price. Cheapest place on the net is here http://performanceoilsltd.co.uk/brake_fluid.html

and you can get a club discount. If you can find it cheaper anywere else then get it there and let Performance Oils know!

I am not aware of any charcoal filters (for cars anyway) but do stand to be corrected here.

Amsoil I shall take your expertise on this. I allways thought a filter was a filter.

To be quite honest, until I got into it and into seriously expensive racing cars so did I! Guess it was the Frams exploding on start up that will never leave my memory.

I somehow get the feeling that many Nissan dealerships could up their game on customer care and service ? Maybe I'm wrong?

Two questions.

What makes you so sure your filter will filtrate better than nissans? (Im sure nissan buy in with a rebranding anyway) At the end of the day all a filter is, is a charcoal element. And charcoal is charcoal.

Why not just pay the 6 quid for the nissan one and save all the fuss?

I am not aware of any charcoal filters (for cars anyway) but do stand to be corrected here. Filters are genarally formed with paper pleats, or 'synthetic media' as manufacturers like to call them. Totally agree that Nissan filters are likely to be made by a known filter manufacturer with Nissan on the outside, (I guess that even if made by the same manufacturer but without Nissan on it some Nissan dealers would want to invalidate warranties!

Amsoil filters where similar to everyone elses until about 1 year ago. Yes they did better valves better seals double rolled edges but the insides where much the same. They scored top but by just 1% over Mobil filters (Fram lagged well behind).

They have now a new synthetic media which is very simple and very clever. It filters better and allows more oil through so preventing valves opening from pressure differentials. (= unfiltered oil!). Vastly vastly superior to anything else out there. They way its done is shown here https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx

I am a believer in these filters (and the oil) we only keep them because we believe they are the very best. If castrol or whoever made something better they we would stock that.

I have just had my 1st service done with the local main stealer and when they changed the oil they put in a semi synthetic Total 10w40 not 5w30 as the book.

 

When I questioned them they said this was the recommended oil for the UK.

 

Is this correct or are they just conning me and do I need to get the oil changed.

 

Car has done 8000 miles now and is UK spec.

 

Thanks

 

Diether

I think you will find that the book says that 5w-30 is the preferred grade for all climates but that 10w-30 or 10w-40 may bw used in milder climates. So I don't think you will win. Insist on a 5w-30 real synthetic next time or better still take your own in!

So a dealer is saying that fitting a superior filter will invalidate the Nissan warranty agreement? (which is of course contrary to European law) The Amsoil filter has been tested in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns. Just wondered what the Nissan requirement actually is?

Amsoil stuff is apparently even slightly better than Motul, will try it on my next 36k service.

 

At last.....

 

Spill the beans then, I am two days away from putting in an order from Opie Oil on Motul and they are competitive - how much will you do 4 litres for (inc. carriage)?!

 

G

Goods are available from Performance Oils, here :-

http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/5w-30more.html

Shown in the club discounts section; contact Admin for the discount code.

You will find that the 5L is better value and cheaper than 4L of Motul. But you will have to pay carriage. A good short term one is to buy 5L of Amsoil from Opie as they havent put their prices as yet! Be quick....

Not often in this world that you can get more and better for less!!!

Amsoil stuff is apparently even slightly better than Motul, will try it on my next 36k service.

At last.....

For oil, I would even go for a 5W40. I ordered the Motul 300V 5W40 ordered from opieoils.co.uk. Motul is slightly better than amsoil, but is more expensive.

Not according to independant tests, its the other way around, and Amsoil is cheaper. If you contact Amsoil they will let you have the results as they are available and published. Ask Motul too but they wont be able to assist you.

Might be worth considering a 5w-30, especially at this time of year and it will give you a little more power/ fuel economy as the pumping losses are reduced.

Just ask Admin and they will give you a discount code for Amsoil.

Just wondering why people are using a 5w-40 oil when the Z should have a 5w-30?

 

As recommended by Opie Oils mate....... I personally asked, and thats what got told? Was either that or the Motul, and the motul didn't come in 5L

 

So will it be that bad to have the 5w-40 vs 5w-30? My car is due for its P2 shortly and so far have the Silkolene Pro S 5W-40 stuff to put in.....

No it won't be bad, just not maximising things; if you where using a mineral oil then yes defo a 5w-40 for the extra strngth but as real synthetics are many times stronger that bit is pushed out of the equation.

Just wondering why people are using a 5w-40 oil when the Z should have a 5w-30?

 

For my part purely recommendation from others on the forum.

 

Dropped the car off at DP in Slough, now got my Micra for the day

....'cause the 5w-40 being thicker will give less MPG less power from the engine, greater pumping losses and hence generate more heat which will assist in breaking the oil down quicker.....