weewizard

good info, you may laugh, but does it have to be ran on optimax etc?

Ok cool, cheers. is that on approx a £60 full tank of fuel? Cheers Richard

Hi Guys, Can some one please tell me how many miles they get out of a full tank of petrol. I dont mean thrashing the go-nads of it. General steady driving. Im going on friday to view one with the mind to buy it. Cheers Rich

oc memebers car? what is oc

Oh yes I know im getting sick of it now LOL. I have the money there but cant seem to get a grip on a car. Missed out on two now.

Hi well i was all set to travel to see a 350 z but unfortunatley its no longer thae case, so my search continues. I hgave come across this, what do you guy reckon? http://www.petrolheads.co.uk/sales/108024.htm Cheers Richard

hi guys the car im going to see has these exact wheels on them. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330036268919 they are on the car see my other posts for the car its self. cheers

how can you drop to the price you have told me?

okay, will that give complete clearance for turning etc.? the car im after doesnt have the brembo brakes. cheers

I have no idea as yet, i have to wait until tomorrow. what should it be for the 350 on this size? Cheers

Hi Guys, wanting to get some wheels sorted for when i get my hands on my new 350z. What do you reckon to these bad boys? Cheers

If i want tot put a set of 19"'s pn a 350 to fill the arch's more what are the over all correct sizes to buy: Alloys?>>> Tyres?>>> Cheers Richard

removed :-)

lol cant stop laffffing at that one

hi guy heres a pic of the engine bay does it look okay to you>? anything out of the ordinary? cheers

Im going to get it checked out but the guy has: Genuine 25k miles with a warranted mileage certificate. HPI clear with new certificate. Cat 1 security with insurance certificate. Recently imported from Japan hence immaculate condition Fully UK converted, SVA'd, taxed, MOT'd, registered, speedo converted into MPH, stereo converted, supplied with a top quality comprehensive 12 month parts & labour warranty. cheers rich

Hi going to see this car on friday, fingers crossed she will be mine if all goes well. Exhaust has been removed but alloys are to be kept. All this for a reduced rate of 14K,. The guy who owns this company is a very genuine guy and gets alot of Jap imports all at top quality grade. Cheers Rich

You probs wouldnt need to luck as the car would go above and beyond to its max speed. as for connection im not sure.

minus 10% of that :-)

Just got a quote from TDI: As followed: Hi Rich, Thanks for your enquiry. The prices are: Speed Limit Defencer £185 Labour £80 Vat £46.38 Total £311.38 Please let me know if I can be of any more help. Kind regards Mark Catchpole Torque Developments International PLC Unit 5 Cliffside Trade Park Motherwell Way Thurrock Essex RM20 3XD

lol what s a sticky

Hi guys whilst researching i have come accross this guide, some of you may have already seen this. Nissan's 350Z carries on (and restores) the famous Nissan Z car tradition. Mixing reliability and good build quality with a silky smooth 3499cc V6 and rear wheel drive. While they are still available new (priced far less than any real competition) there is a growing used car market as owners upgrade to the latest spec. or get banned for drifting round roundabouts! As with all Japanese cars there are loads of imported (JDM) cars on the market too. Briefly... you can't take the roof off without a saw it is a Coupe, if you can it is a roadster. (Don't make yourself look stoopid by talking about buying a 350Z cabriolet!) If it is a 350Z GT, Gran Turismo or has the GT pack fitted it means it has heated seats, cruise control and upgraded (Bose) stereo. When new dealers charged an extra £2000 for this. There is a GT4 limited edition too. If it a Fairlady, Version T (Lux) it is an import. While the 350Z is pretty reliable there are a few problems which happen to most cars. While most of these should have been fixed by the dealer under warranty there are a few that have not materialised until the warranty has run out. UK spec. cars have the usual Nissan 3 year warranty. If the car is under warranty and there are outstanding faults this may indicate a reluctance to visit the dealer (big service due? modifications that may invalidate the warranty?) These problems are... Tyres feathering, uneven wear, grumbling at low speeds. Grumbling at 15 to 30mph is usually caused by the tyres, if it has original bridgestones. Feathering, scrubbing and un-even wear is probably bandly set tracking. Nissan issued a bulletin on this subject which you can see at http://www.bonell.plus.com/350z/tire%20feathering%20service%20bulletin.pdf Rear axle clicking noise. Sounds like something left underneath. Usually does it when shifting from reverse to forward or initial load when moving off. This is caused by the driveshafts. Due to the work involved make sure the price reflects this if the car is not covered under warranty. You can read the bulletin at http://www350z-tech.com/zwiki/service:tsb_04-065_Suspension_Clicking_Noise_From_Rear_Axle Gearchange can get a bit notchy in 4th and 6th if thrashed or neglected. Bose CD player skipping. The Bose system is intended as an upgrade but the CD player tends to skip or jump. Usually when my CDs are on. If my good lady puts 'Chick flick sondtrack' or 'Cheezy 80s cack' on it is fine! Yet as soon as the White stripes, the Who or the Zep are on it sounds like the dance remix! Most have been fixed under warranty though. The N/S speaker can cut out when playing CDs too. Best to administer a sound thump to the passenger kneepad area (With your hand. Put the hammer down!) Squeaky brakes. This is what happens when you fit big Brembo racing brakes to a car then people drive it like a Fiat Punto. Seat Turbo R and Mitsubishi Evo owners cars suffer from this too. Funnily enough those cars all have Brembo brake callipers too! At times the odd squeak from the brakes can be embarrasing but as a car mechanic I am happy as long as they stop the car when I press the brake! Some owners complain about a spongy pedal too. Because the Brembo brake calliper has large brake pads more effort is required when the pads are cold. Sometimes over-zealous owners overfill the brake reservoir too. Because there is no space this causes the master cylinder to draw the brake pistons back in overnight, so when you come out in the morning, half asleep picking kebab from your teeth and yellow stuff from your eyes, reveverse out the drive and shi...get a big fright and have to pump up the footbrake, thats what causes it! People always complain about handbrake travel (not just on Zeds, on all Nissans) For some reason Nissan like the handbrake to come on a convincing amount. If overadjusted, the rear pads will heat up and cause terrible brake fade. Tailgate trying to eat you. The stops can be adjusted by taking them off and spacing them. Dealers can get the correct pads for doing that. If ignored the struts will weaken and adjusting the pads won't work. Scratches/stonechips on bumper. This is normal because of the shape of the front of the car. There are 2 ways to stop this happening. 1.Buy something else 2.Buy some clear film and fit it before it happens. Most car accessory shops sell this film. I would recommend the later option. It is better to see a few stonechips than a horribly repainted bumper, bodged because they are trying to sell the car! Finally, if the car is over 4 years old or past 54,000 miles make sure it has had its major service because it is a biggie! (Currently about £500!) In addition to the above remember all the usual car buying rules. To summarise... 1.If you are buying off ebay, don't hand over a penny until you have actually touched the car and seen the registration document. 2.Take the Missus. While you are picturing yourself driving along the seafront with girls swooning at you the battleaxe will be noticing scratches, stains and asking 'Why are you selling it if it is so good'! 3.Get it HPI'd. Don't bother doing this to them all but if you are serious, get it done. It will avoid tears at bedtime. 4.Phone the dealers in the service book. Nissan servicing can be pricey so there is a temptation to commit 'Service book fraud' Nowadays any dealer mentioned in the book will have a record of each service being done (or not done!) 5.Don't be forced into anything. God as it is, there are plenty 350Z about so if you have to walk away, walk away! I hope this guide has made you more aware of the 350Z rather than put you off.

Hi guys found this on ebay it is a prety useful guide. Buying a Japanese Import Vehicle We know from personal experience that buying a japanese import car for the first time can seem very scary. Hence, Temple Tuning's Ebay Outlet has written this general guide which we hope will be helpful when considering purchasing a japanese import vehicle. Buying any car is a major commitment and we would recommend also reading the relevent owners forums to learn all you can before making purchase. Owner's forums are great places for finding model specific information that may not be covered in more general guides. Please note that this is not intended as a guide to importation. General; Always view cars in daylight. Avoid viewing in rain and ensure the seller has cleaned car. Dirt can hide a lot of sins. If the Japanese auction sheet is available ask to see it. Have a look at the condition code given to the vehicle, as this will let you know whether the vehicle has any accident history. R, RA, A or 0 denotes accident damage where vehicle has been repaired or had panels replaced. Vehicles are also graded in terms of their condition from 6 - 1. An auction grade 6 is the highest and only ever likely to be seen on a new car. The grades move downwards with grade 3 indicating that a car has blemishes, scratches or small dents. Grade 1 will generally indicate a modified vehicle that has had certain body panels/trim replaced with aftermarket parts. REMEMBER that the auction sheet is a reflection of the visual condition of a car and does not give any guide to the mechanical workings of the vehicle. Ensure that all relevent paperwork is available with the car. This will include japanese de-registration documents with English copy. An imported vehicle of less than 10yrs old will also require an SVA test to ensure UK compliance. This includes MOT, foglight, speedo conversion, petrol cap, and tyres that comply with UK regulations. It is also a SVA requirement that all vehicles must be as they left the factory. Therefore, any aftermarket parts such as bodykits, performance exhausts, apexi power intake induction kits , racing steering wheels etc etc etc must be removed and replaced with standard items. A reputable import company will deal with all this before releasing a vehicle to buyer. Check any build plates on the car. For instance, imported Nissans have a Blue Nissan Build Plate at the back of engine bay. The plate shows the chassis number and fixed by white plastic rivets. This plate should never be removed except perhaps if the car has had engine bay re-spray so the fixings ought to be original. Background data on vehicles from Japan is available through BIMTA. More details on BIMTA organisation can be found on the internet. Bodywork; Check car close up AND from 10-15ft away paying particular attention to paintwork and panel alignment. Stand at angle to car checking colour matches and for paintwork ripples or signs of blending. Look round the car and underneath for signs of over-spray. If car has been re-sprayed you want to know why. Check wing nuts for signs of removal and the front support bar to see if there are any signs that car has been in accident. Look under sills at chassis legs that run from back to front of car on both sides. Make sure the small mid-way weld hasn’t split; this can be a sign of repaired shunt. Check under carpet in boot. Make sure the spare is there. Pay particular attention for rust and signs of accident repair. Open and close doors/boot/bonnet/windows. Make sure all panels line up as should and look for rust in areas water may sit. Inspect underneath the car for signs of corrosion. Surface rust may be brushed off and treated. Check all windows for cracks/chips. Replacing a window on an import can be expensive. Electronics and Interior; Make sure that the engine check light comes on at start up but does NOT stay on when driving. Same with other start up lights such as HICAS, ABS or airbags that may be on the vehicle. . Check all electronics function correctly. If the car is a fresh import on original stereo it will not function without wave expander (not expensive). Many insurers will ask that your import has a Cat 1 alarm/immobiliser and some may ask for trackers. Do the odometer readings appear consistent with any service stickers found on car? Stickers are generally located in door jams or engine bay. Is the interior wear (seats/steering wheel/gators etc) what you would expect in relation to the mileage? Engine: Looked after many japanese engines are strong. Make sure engine has well cared for with regular service intervals, particularly important on a turbo car. Ensure that the current owner has been running on good grade fuel and if it is turbo car, allowing turbo to warm up/idle down. Is there proof positive of cambelt change? If not, factor the price of changing belt into your budget. Similarily if the vehicle is a fresh import then it is likely that full service and new tyres will be needed. It is often less costly to buy an import vehicle from a reputable import company who ensure that all these issues are attended to on a fresh import before it leaves the forecourt or to buy a car that has been in the country for a while with an enthusiast owner who has already born these costs on your behalf. Check that the engine appears cared for and ‘looks factory’ with neat wiring and no bodged jobs. This applies to both standard and highly modified cars. Check for fluid leaks; i.e. Clutch, brake, power steering and ABS. Check under the engine for oil leaks paying attention to area around sump plug. Check fluids are clean. Pull out dipstick and remove oil filler cap to check for healthy, clean oil. Black oil suggests poor maintenance. Does the oil smell burnt? Similarly check for clean coolant. Be very wary of any greyish or gooey matter in these areas. Check hoses and belts for wear and splits. Road testing; Never road test a vehicle with stereo on. You need to be listening to the car. Similarly don’t let the seller talk all the way through your test drive. Listen out for whistling noises whilst accelerating as this can indicate air leaks or turbo problems. Listen out for detonation (or pinking) under load. Detonation can be indicative of poor ignition setting, low quality fuel, or a badly maintained engine. Watch out for hesitations or misfires. Often these don’t reveal themselves until a higher up the rev range when engine is placed underload. Hence, try to witness the car right through the rev range. Check for blue smoke under hard acceleration and during deceleration. Can be sign of engine wear or turbo problems. Make sure that the operation of clutch, gearbox and brakes is smooth. Ensure that the gearbox is not whining and that there are no crunching synchros on gear changes (it is often normal for the box on a perfomance vehicle to be a little stiff when cold). If the vehicle is a model that comes with an oil pressure gauge then make sure it is showing a nice healthy oil pressure rising under load. Drive vehicle long enough that any temp issues are revealed. At normal engine temp leave the car idling and check for; Blue smoke = can indicate a variety of turbo or breathing related problems. Black smoke = can indicate fuelling issues. White smoke = possible engine damage, headgasket or cylinder head problems. Handling, breaking and suspension; Check for any vibration through steering when driving and that the car doesn’t pull to one side under breaking. Do a visual check on discs for scoring and check the thickness of brake pads. If these are going to need replacing imminently then try to get the seller to do so or some money knocked off. Check dampers for any obvious leaks. Also look out for grease leaking from ball-joints. Suspect knocking when driven may be result of dry joints. Many japanese import vehicles are equipped with Limited-Slip Diff. You should not be able to hear any strange or whining noises from the diff. Check tyres for wear on the inside edge and make sure front + rears haven’t been swapped. FINALLY; Don’t forget that the AA or RAC will check a car out pretty thoroughly for you. Also if not a fresh import , consider a HPI check My favourite moto when buying any vehicle is; ‘If in doubt, leave it out’. Good luck with buying your import vehicle! Best Regards JDM Temple.

Im trying to locate one of these, As yet i have not been able to. Any ideas? Cheers Richard

Hi guys in my questo locate a 350z, i have come across a number of Jap Cars with SAT NAV - Jap Setting etc Can the system be converted to UK or EVEN Europe Roads etc. Cheers Rich