Rajtastic

OK - I winged it by looking at where the orange wire goes on other people's wiring and I got it right - it's the grey wire if you want the 12V wire (only do this if you want to use the switch light - otherwise use the red/white earth to eliminate the risk of shorting anything when you do the work😞

Note : the dash-light wire from the passenger heat seat switch (white wire) should illuminate the bunny on my light to yellow when I turn on the car. However, it doesn't seem to. Either I got the wrong wire or the dash light somehow only comes on at night (which I doubt). I should probably disconnect.

I'd recommend these suckers for sure - zero crimping tools to connect the wires:

Wago 221 connectors

Here's the switch I used:

https://www.aironboard.co.uk/online/nissan-switch-n127go-bunny-burners-amber-green-on-off.html

Now the switch is green when ESP is normal (i.e. engaged) but when you press it it will kill the TCS and stability control (as per the common mod people do):

ESP/VDC completely off when I depress the above button:

Hey guys,

Got a nice little button to turn on/off TCS by cutting out the connection to the yaw sensor (well documented solution) but weirdly my wiring doesn't seem to match anything I can see online.

All the manuals seem to show this wiring:

However, I don't have orange - only these wires:

I can find the wire I need just by sensing for 12V (I know you can use the red/white earth to be safer but I want to use the 12v to power by button light):

(switch from Air Onboard UK)

Anyone ever seen this wiring before?

Cheers,

Raj Tastic

Ah - I guess that's just a weird sticker then?

I just bought it from Torqen labelled as 350Z so hope it's OK:

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/body-styling/gear-knobs/18890-350z-nismo-polished-billet-aluminum-shift-knob-c2865-1ea00.html

 yeah, I basically someone to tell me to buy this nismo one:

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/body-styling/gear-knobs/18890-350z-nismo-polished-billet-aluminum-shift-knob-c2865-1ea00.html

PS I'm aware there are other posts on this - just looking for the latest/more options...

Hey guys,

Looking for a new shifter knob (just for fun). Wondering what people's preferences are (esp here in the UK)?

Been looking at various Nismo ones which look cool but I'd kind of like one with gear markings etched in (but not necessary):

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/body-styling/gear-knobs/18890-350z-nismo-polished-billet-aluminum-shift-knob-c2865-1ea00.html

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/body-styling/gear-knobs/18888-350z-nismo-genuine-shift-knob-black-c2865-1ea01.html

https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/genuine-nismo-nissan-fitment-shift-knob-with-carbon-finish.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwo4mIBhBsEiwAKgzXOMddNm7nacb0laDuG1qegVqoUp8vC5paFzuFfz5fCxr2jd2vw5myExoCSOsQAvD_BwE

Looking for just the 'nicest' one (I don't shift gears quickly and I don't need a short-shifter - just something thats it feel 'nice').

What do people think?

4 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

The numbers change depending on the spacer type and size.

 

The number is on the outside edge:

 

 

 

 

Thanks a lot! Mine are competely bare but they are used. Think the markings could come off? 

Otherwise, sounds like a have knock offs

1 minute ago, ZMANALEX said:

This will be the number: 

 

 Eibach Pro-Spacer Kit (Pair Of Spacers) 15mm Per Spacer (System 4) S90-4-15-001

Thanks a lot. You don't have a pic of it actually on the spacer do you? Just trying to see where it is 

8 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Genuine Eibach spacers will have markings on them.

 

I only use 17mm shallow open ended wheel nuts for Eibach spacers (M12 x 1.25)

So weird. Do you have any pics at all of the markings? 

Thanks a lot! 

Hi guys,

I inherited a set of 15mm system 4 Eibach spacers (and some 20mm ones for the front too) which are apparently Eibach. I have 100% confidence in the seller (he's quite well known in the forums) but I can't figure out what model they are.

Reason I ask is because the I needed a replacement nut (I chewed one) and the Eibach UK stockists said I need a hex 17mm head with M12 x 1.25 thread. However, the existing nuts are 19mm head so wondering why. Then, I looked up the product code and that says there's 19mm head :shrug.

350z 15mm Spacers (link) 

Apparent nuts I need (code : S2-112-25-17-19-O - link)

I'm changing these discs BTW

Question is : do all Eibach spacers come with markings on them? Apparently, they do but I'm yet to see any markings on mine or anyone else's I could find on the net.Cheers

10 hours ago, Foo56 said:

Hi - I have some from my HR - done around 60k miles but good nick if you’re still looking 

Ah - thanks a lot mate. I bought a set off ZMANALEX now. I'll flag this post to let others know I've got some now.

In fact, just realised OEM bushing are half the price. Reckon I'll notice any difference? I've got whiteline poly bushes elsewhere but those are all parts which didn't come with a bushing pre-installed (i.e. someone had to press the old rubber ones out).

41 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Ah - sorry, I'd misunderstood.

You mean this guy?

10 hours ago, Eddie_r32 said:

Have you replaced the rear lower shock bushing as the oem ones can weld themselves to the bolt which is always a fun time

Cheers for the tip - I think I've ordered what you're referring to?

I also email Koni and they said that there's prob no need to replace any of the mounts (i.e. the bits made of metal) so just the rubbers should be good.

Hi guys

Changing to Konis on my 110k mile 350Z and was going to do some general maintenance at the same time. I took my Z to Abbey a couple of years ago and they recommended a load of bushings to change (which I've switched to White Line already) - is there anything obvious you think I should change?

Here's the list of stuff I've bought so far - it's basically any nut/bolt I'll touch during the install plus some of the bushings in the suspension bit itself (wasn't going to change the metal mounts - I figured they can't degrade much surely)?

Any other suggestions/misses?

Cheers,

Raj Tastic

Finally got around to changing the fluid (had the wrong size tube to drain it out) and I *think* it's better.

Will post an update after a bit more usage.

Hi guys,

Anyone got any decent mileage springs? I'm swapping out my suspension to Koni Yellows and don't know what state my springs are in so would like to make sure I have good springs in when I install.

Cheers,

Roshan

22 minutes ago, Azurez33 said:

Yeah that’s what I was going to say check or change the fluid as you’ve said most likely the fluid has boiled but go from there Mate 

Great - thanks a lot mate. Appreciated! Will report back.

1 hour ago, Azurez33 said:

I’ll edit this as early morning brain didn’t kick in, has the biting point definitely dropped? Some if not a lot of  biting points rise due to clutch wear etc  might just have been a case of fading due to the heat etc? Did you have the clutch fluid done at same point or perhaps check the service interval on that aswell, is there any other noises you’ve noticed or purely just biting point? 

Yeah - it's hit the last bit of travel but no slipping at all. Feels the same but just higher. Flushed the fluid maybe a year ago? However, maybe it boiled on the track day due to bad high RPM gear changes and it's all mushy now?

That's the only difference - feels fine otherwise. I guess a quick fluid change is probably the first logical step?

Hi guys,

Just done a Bedford track day and I have to confess - my heel & toe was a mess for the first half of the day and kept on downshifting at way too higher-revs. Burning the clutch definitely.

However, the clutch bite point has jumped from about 50% of the way down to maybe the last 20%. Any simple things I can do to check what the issue is? Surely, I can't have burnt that much clutch in one day (it was new about 3 years ago - less than 20k on it).

If it was gradual, I'd say burn but it's suddenly changed.

Hi guys,

Anyone have any recommendations of Koni Yellows (using my OEM springs) vs BC Racing BR Series, Type RS Coilovers?

Note : Will use OEM springs as I don't want to lower

I've heard Koni Yellows are the gold standard but wondering whether it's worth getting the coilovers? 

Use case is track days and normal driving - don't want it to be any less comfortable on the road really and I'm not going to lower it.

Cheers,

Raj

Hi guys,

Sorry if I'm reposting here but couldn't find anyone with this combo of H&R springs + Koni Yellows:

I don't really want to drop the car because of speed bumps etc so prob want to use my existing OEM springs or buy replacements (and sell the H&Rs).

Anyone know:

(a) Whether 30mm drop will be okay without adjustable lower control arms?

(b) Of any springs to go with instead of H&R?

(c) Have experience of the above combo?

Cheers,

Raj

Hi guys,

Just a note - in case your terminals don't fit anymore (mine fell out on track ) then you can buy these lovely little battery shims (made of lead) which you can crumple into the terminal posts (just open up the terminal cable eyes as wide as you can and then tighten with a rachet wrench until it clamps around it tightly and the lead will compress into a tight fit):

Then you'll get a nice snug fit like this:

Beast of a battery!

Hi guys,

Anyone know where to get these? It's the flap which covers the tow eye hole at the rear of the car. Mine came off on a track day.

Thanks,

Roshan

Thanks for the feedback guys. I was happy with the DS2500 (I don't push that hard) but I'll definitely consider a more track-focused one if it's quite quick to change over the pads on the day.

I ordered the StopTech's before you replied so I'll post feedback on this to let other members know what they're like on track (my mate has been using the same range on his MX5 for a while and was happy with them so I guess I'll see).