dominicc

Here's a video on how to use an old-style blind with a new-style casting and solenoid. This worked fine and passed the Spanish ITV.

Hi all, I recently moved to Spain and exported my 350z, but in order to pass the Spanish ITV the headlights need to be changed to EU spec when on dipped beam. I created a video showing the main parts involved and detailed some of the process and shared it here Here's the end result, and this passed the Spanish ITV light inspection test on dipped and full beam. In Spain headlights have to be type-approved, the Spanish ITV rejects non-EU type-approved aftermarket lights. The ITV staff *DO* check this. Especially on the first ITV. Buying a new set of headlights is much more expensive than just a pair of US xenon projector assemblies which I purchased for around 50 USD inc shipping. I got mine here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_ssn=xenonsupplyco&_nkw=350z Unfortunately one was the wrong style (old) and the casting was broken in shipping so I couldn't just fit the new pair as I had expected to be able to do, so I had to use the parts from them to do the job, which a little bit more complicated because an old-style blind does not fit a new style solenoid unless you get creative, I had too, it worked. I'll detail this in later post... IMPORTANT: If you're buying a set make sure they are IDENTICAL. See photos below. Ideally you want a set with the solenoids, as the solenoids and blinds changed at some point when the casting was updated to use a press-fit pin instead of screws to hold it in. Here's a pair of NEW STYLE casting, blinds and solenoids: Here's the process and related parts that need to be changed. 1. Remove front bumper, see service manual... 2. Remove everything, including all the grommets, from the headlight. NOTE THE LOCATION OF ALL THE WIRES AND THE CLIPS THAT HOLD THEM IN PLACE. 3. Remove the 5 screws around the edge of the headlight that holds the two halves together, see video for locations. 4. Cook the headlight in the oven at 120 C for 8 minutes. 120 C isn't hot enough to melt the headlights but it is enough to allow the glue to melt. I placed the headlight on some wet cardboard. 5. Separate the two haves, PRY from the BOTTOM EDGE, then pull forwards, away from the TOP edge where it is slotted in. Handle with heat-proof gloves. *NOTE* DO NOT GET THE GLUE ON THE HEADLIGHTS! It's hard to get off, if I was doing this again I'd mask the headlight plastic. The water droplets are from the water from the cardboard, you must FULLY CLEAN the inside of the reflectors and lenses before re-assembly. Don't scratch anything. 6. Remove the casting from the rear black plastic half. There are two adjusting screws, COUNT the turns for each screw and write it on the casting next to the hole the screw came from as you do it so that you can put the alignment back as it was. If you don't remember to do this you'll have to re-aim/align both lights. There is a 3rd press-fit ball joint that is also to be pulled out. Once this is done the casting can be removed. 7. Remove the reflector, lens, lens gasket, solenoid, and all plastic clips from the casting, so you are left with just this. Here's what a set looks like, showing one broken old-style casting (bottom left). UK (RHD) ones on the right, USA/NZ (LHD) on the left. Here's what the guts of a headlight looks like: 8. Dremel off the stub in the casting to allow the US/NZ blinds to fit. 9. Remove the pin holding the blind in place, depending on which casting style you have you either need to remove two screws holding the pin in place or heat the casting up to 230C for around 5 minutes and drift the pin out from the side opposite the arrow by the holes for the pin. SUPPORT THE CASTING WELL WHEN DRIFTING THE PIN OUT TO AVOID BREAKING IT! Old style with screws holding pin: New style with press fit pin: 10. Reassemble casting, fitting alternative (US/EU/NZ) blinds. If you have the new style casting re-heat the casting *AND* blind, but not the pin at 230C for 5 minutes before drifting it back in. i.e. enlarge the casting and bushings using heat, but keep the pin cold and small so it goes together easier. SUPPORT THE CASTING WELL WHEN DRIFTING THE PIN BACK IN. 11. Put solenoid back on, check that only requires minimal pressure to move the blind. One of mine was tight so I enlarged the brass bushing one of the new blinds until it was free. Steps 9/10/11 may require a couple of attempts if the blinds do not operate freely. 12. CLEAN EVERYTHING. 13. Re-assemble the two halves. ENSURE YOU SET THE ALIGNMENT SCREWS TO HOW THEY CAME OUT. i.e. count the turns when removing them and count the turns when reinstalling them. 14. Apply fresh glue to seal the lights. Put it all round the edge of the headlight. It comes on a roll like this. 15. Cook the two headlight halves in the oven again, to melt the old and new glue. 16. Press the two halves together, and while the glue is hot install the 5 screws that hold the two halves together. 17. Reinstall remaining headlight components. 18. Install headlights into car, TEST THEM. Point the car at a wall, in the dark, align them at this point if you need to. 19. Reinstall bumper. 20. Grab a well deserved beer, you're done. Enjoy! Related part numbers: D2S 10022-63819 (US projector shield/blind) 04-315-1162NJ-L (NZ projector shield/blind) 0075-63819 (US Right hand side casting) 10175-63819 (UK Left hand side casting) 10075-63819 (UL Right hand side casting) D2S 63821 (UK reflector, R) 26025 (RH) / 26075 (LH) 26025W (RH) / 26075 (LH) 26010 (RL) / 26060 (LH) The UK parts numbers are from a 2006 Rev-Up 350z.

thanks for your tips. Mine stopped working recently, symptoms were: * no pump noise * activating switch on steering column activated wipers ok. but no spray, so 'combination switch' is OK. Fault finding process: * removed driver side washer pipe connection to wiper, activated switch, no pump noise, no screen cleaning fluid pressure. * fuse 84 in IPDM (near battery) was OK. (4th one down, right hand side) * with fuse 84 removed orange wire on pin 44 of E8 on IPDM had no voltage, with fuse present 12v. * removed fender protected - was a PITA as two bolts securing it to the bumper were rusted solid. * removed connector from spray pump, connected 12v LIPO battery to it, Orange wire positive. * pump motor did not spin. Cause: * faulty pump. Removal and inspection of pump: * removed pump, after placing 5L tray under pump to catch full tank of liquid. * quickly noted 5L wasn't enough to catch and scooped some out into a container! haha. * noted that the pump was visibily rusty inside the sealed plastic unit. Inspected inside the opening and blew it through with air compressor, nothing came out, no noise from whizzing pump impeller. motor likely seized. Since the fault was definitely the pump I removed the bottom of it, to access the internals, the two halves are glued together in the factory, not designed to be serviced. removed plastic impeller and noted motor shaft sounded crunchy. gave it a few turns and re-applied power to it and sure-enough it spins up, however I don't fancy the chances of me gluing the two halves back together or it lasting for very long and ordered a new part. I found useful information in the 350z service manual (Revision 2006 November). In the WW.pdf file: WW-10 has schematic. WW-12/WW-13 has system connection diagram with cable colors, connector diagrams/pinouts. WW-35 has section "Removal and Installation of Washer Pump" / NKS0052W