spectron

As the title really, has anyone experienced a yellow stuff pad (or any other pad for that matter) being so stuck in the caliper that it won't lift out. 

The pads are at the end of their life so I tried to replace them today but both inner pads at the front seem stuck solid in the caliper and won't lift out even with mild brute force with a pair of mole grips. Calipers indie and out have been cleaned with brake cleaner as much as possible.

If anyone has experienced this, any tips on getting them out without removing the calipers?

Cheers

OK thanks all, I baulk at stuff that takes too long due to other commitments and a perceived complexity but if it's as you all describe, I'll tackle it it one of these coming weekends.

Cheers

50 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Maximum 2 hour job.

 

Very straight forward. 

So I presume the manifold coming off is not necessary?

Hi all, as the subject, I've got a couple of replacement covers from ZMANALEX and am looking for a decent guide for replacing them. I've done a search but nothing obvious has come up.

The local garage reckon it's a 6 hour job and need to remove the full plenum and manifold but then I'm also getting conflicting info online that it's not that big a job (although still no guides as to what actually needs doing)

Has anyone done the job and can confirm what actually does need to be removed?

Pm sent... 

Just as a final update, cylinder 5 had the misfire so replaced the coil and all is now good.

Only issue is the dreaded oil in the recess so it looks like I'm heading for a rocker cover gasket set replacement to stop it happening again.....

10 hours ago, Kieran O'Quick said:

I got some freeze spray, waited till I got the misfire and sprayed the tops of the coils. P3 cooled down and the engine purred. The spray evaporated off and it ran rough again.....

Good option; I've got some in the garage but I'm doing nothing in this weather...!

58 minutes ago, Chrissaxon said:

Was the fault there before you changed the spark plugs? It could be coil pack breaking down . You will find out when you take out the spark plugs. If it's faulty .

No the misfire under these particular conditions manifested about 1000 miles after the spark plugs were changed.

When I bought the car, the previous owner had obviously neglected the plugs because after about 4 weeks of ownership I started to get a random misfire at high revs, which was sorted by changing the spark plugs. I'm hoping that by previously neglecting the plugs and causing them to break down, it put more stress on the coils which is why I'm now getting the issues I am. At least then it's any easy fix to diagnose and sort.

The good news is that I do now have a permanent EML so a code has been logged so just need to get my reader on it tomorrow.

35 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Perhaps might be a plan to let it develop until it stores a code.

 

Yes, those were my thoughts cheers

21 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Are you sure that it is the EML that is flashing and not the traction/anti skid?

Yes, it's definitely the EML, I've had it light up before at higher revs before I changed the spark plugs.

It flashes at a constant rate for a good 10 seconds whilst the engine seems to misfire then goes off again.

Hi all, as the title, I'm starting to get an occasional misfire when the car gets hot and do get the EML flashing intermittently.

The odd thing is though, when we had a scan this weekend it's not storing any fault codes at all?

Does anyone know of an issue that would cause the EML to flash for misfire but not store a code?

Cheers

1 hour ago, ZMANALEX said:

 

However, it may just be the fumes from other vehicles as you say that it is only when stuck in traffic.

Have you tried adjusting your heater, air con. controls when this happens?

 

Fumes from other vehicles may be a point I could eliminate by just Idling in a car park I suppose & it's certainly worth messing with the controls when it happens to further try to isolate things. Cheers

Hi all, I've looked around and can't find a similar thread so hopefully someone might be able to tell where to at least start looking.

On my daily commute (never giving it the beans) when I'm stuck in traffic I can often get the smell of hot oil coming through the vents. I've checked the oil levels and it's dropped by about 250ml in the last 1000miles.

I assume if I was burning it, the smell would not come through the vents so I'm guessing a leak somewhere dropping onto a hot engine.

Anyone have an idea where to start looking and where might be the most common gaskets / areas to look? 

2004 DE on 112000 miles

Cheers

PM sent 

Thanks all, but sorted now. As above they're not needed urgently, just as standby use so I don't get stranded on long trips

3 minutes ago, davidv10 said:

I have my standard suspension from my old 2004 DE as it have coilovers on when it got sold. But they would have to be collected from Norwich. PM me if you are interested 

Thanks for the offer but I'm after the Coil Packs for the engine, not the suspension coils 

Hi as title, I'm after a couple of coil packs that will fit a 2004 DE just to keep as backups if anyone has any serviceable ones available

Thanks

As title really, does anyone have and original set of springs (or rear springs and front struts) for a 2004 350Z?

Mine came with 25mm lowering springs which are too harsh for everyday

Cheers

Thanks for all the replies, it would appear that the radio does at least work constantly now so I do suspect it was indeed condensation that had built up over the time it was left standing.

I do plan to switch it out as soon as I get a chance though

Cheers

Hi, first post here and only had the car a week or so; got a reduction due to the stereo issue which I'm starting to look at now.

Apologies if this has been covered before but I did trawl the forums first to see if I could find anything the same but nothing jumped out at me.

In most cases when I start the car in the morning or evening, there is absolutely no sound from the Bose 6 changer stereo. Usually at some point in the journey it does cut in then will remain on for the rest of the journey without cutting out once. I'm taking a wild guess that it my be a condensation issue with either the head unit or rear amp due to the nature of the fault but if anyone has experienced the same issue it would help to point me in the right direction as the first things to check. 

Cheers