raptor07GT

ok, so final line on this one. Chris at Dynatune plugged in standalone sensor / gauge and we got 25psi at a hot idle with what seemed like pretty thin oil. Took some pics of the oil pressure sensor and had it confirmed it was the wrong sensor. How on gawds green earth the wrong sensor was in has not been established but that explained the crappy pressure reading. Happy I actually had oil pressure and it wasn't leaking either, I took the car up over the Applecross and enjoyed driving it about the Highlands. Got a replacement sensor sent direct to me and Chris fitted it last week. Fresh oil and Nissan filter fitted yesterday and lo we now have cold cranking pressure and of course the all important hot pressure at idle.  So for a dodgy sensor way back in January, 2 senders and a replacement mid sump, several months of pillar and post shuffling and the best part of a grand later, I can breathe that the job is done. Seriously wtf!

my own HR runs about the same but under the horizontal (if that makes sense) and likewise doesn't seem to vary much. I'm sure Ive heard the fans coming on so it must be getting hotter to trip them.  Have you tried plugging in a bluetooth ODB dongle and reading the coolant temperature ?  HOw old is the coolant ?

welcome  

nice colour and super low miles, welcome to the forum  

hey bud, indeed Automek would be the next on the list. Chris at Dynatune (I've used his rolling road for my previous car) seems confident he can find the fault, he is also happy to put on a mechanical gauge to see what is actually happening whereas my original garage have gone to ground and dont seem to want to investigate further.  I just want it sorted so I can move on, it is a very expensive ownership that needs ending sooner rather than later

edit: Dynatune was on the recommended garage list

car going into Dynatune this coming Friday for Chris to look at. Bloody cars!

yeah my front splitter needs a bit of a caution with speed bumps and larger ramps

do the throttle idle relearn first since that costs nothing but 5 minutes of your time (you're unlikely to get it correctly first attempt ) 

yeah mine did that too! It's like you have forgotten clutch control it is that bad  . I did a couple of error code resets using a bluetooth dongle but doing the throttle pedal reset was what cured it for me (as did having no battery in the car for 2hrs to completely erase everything!  -another story)  I found using the video on youtube was easier than following written instructions 

hoping to be there tonight, weather looking mince like but should make it through  

ah, sorry I missed this today. Would have been good to catch up with other owners and get advice etc. Turned out a not bad afternoon for it

New oem sensor supplied by vendor on here. Will get the gauge checked by bridging terminals. Anyone know if you can put a meter over the sensor and what it reads at different pressures?  

I guess the garage just don't want to risk the breaking of another sump, doesn't help me though. Any 350z specialists in central Scotland or even Scotland? 

So bit of an update on this one. New sump and sensor fitted and now I have a guage that moves but something is horribly wrong. At cold I now have oil pressure about 60psi and hot, well it's not even registering however no oil pressure warning light come on. Garage doesn't want to take new sensor out in case the new sump splits so what choices are there for checking the actual pressure, any sandwich plate options or other pressure locations a gauge could be plugged into?  This is turning into a Greek tragedy

nice car, lovely wheels! Welcome   How do you find driving it, HR model yeah ?

On 29/01/2019 at 08:35, Keyser said:

Hopefully it's just a bad sender, but the first thing to do is as you have said - get a mechanical gauge hooked up and see what the pressure is actually doing.

As long as the readings are good get a new sender fitted.

 

Top Tip -

DO NOT over tighten the sender when putting it in, the upper sump pan is aluminium and I have seen both stripped threads and one split, that's then a major repair or replacement!

The sump split when they tried to take old sender out. I'm selling this POS when I eventually get it back  

hi Adrian, the DIY might be cheaper but I'm a bit clumsy and this sender can be done up too tight causing problems so aye cheaper for me to pay someone to do it for me. Gauge was funny this morning but ok tonight. Garage Monday  

thanks guys. Bit of an update. Both this morning cold and this evening cold the oil pressure gauge was reading 60psi BEFORE i cranked the engine which seems a little odd to say the least. I drove to work (45mile trip) and the pressure was fine until until about the last 10 miles when it dropped quite a bit and had the light coming on and zero pressure at idle. Parked the car at work then 40 minutes later cranked it back up again to take to the garage next door and lo the gauge read zero before cranking and pressure was fine no light either. Anyways, garage didn't have a mechanical gauge but they reckon its the sender. These senders are not cheap just to replace on a whim  

so, I have a 07 HR and it's had some electrical issues which were looked into before I went away on a long weekend (without car!). Result, the car had enough power in the battery to start the car after 4 days of sitting in the rain whereas before it killed the battery dead flat in 3 days.

New problem, drove the car for 4 days after electrical fix (new battery cable clamps and earth strap) and no issues other than the damned hunting idle and general slop in throttle response BUT Sunday after car had been sitting for 4 days the oil pressure gauge and warning light decided to play dead (gauge) and the pressure light came on. This happened after about 5 minutes of starting car and driving off. Stopped engine and checked underneath car. No drips, oil on dipstick in correct place and the engine didn't sound like it was dying. So, being stupid (and really hating this cars behaviour) I restarted car and drove on. Once the engine had heated up the oil pressure gauge started reading normally and the pressure light went out. Same again Monday today

crank car - oil pressure over 90 (might even be off the scale) when idling cold but within 5 minutes it drops to zero and light comes on

ignore every fibre in my body and all mechanical sympathy and keep driving and lo the gauge starts reading properly and the pressure light goes out. 

Checked oil level at work in the daylight and the oil is almost at the high mark. Oil is clean and fresh with filter less than 2.5k miles in. Er, how big a problem is this? Checking some posts, a mechanical gauge check is required to see whats actually happening there but I assume the pressure light is fed differently from the pod gauge ? Really really dislike this cars way of dealing with day to day stuff (i'm sure it hates me for driving with the oil pressure light on!) 

i have also done this lowering the lock mechanism but I still need 3 washers in the poppers to get the lid to open. It opens better now but now I have more issues closing the lid, needs a couple of attempts to drop the lid from high enough to lock OR i press the lid down repeatedly til it actually does latch.

It's a rubbish design doomed to failure which is why no other manufacturer has this on their cars. Grrr

welcome   I'm sometimes in Edinburgh area but aye as said get yourself along to a dealer and go for a test drive

the car is currently in the garage trying to find the source of the battery eating habit it has but hopefully make the next one  

^^ both very good points. I shall get some bits together and have a crack next time I have the car at the weekend. Cheers guys  

ha, I actually saw that video before I went to Halfords but because my drivers side jets will wash the entire car I assumed that wasn't the issue... I'll get the car back a week on Saturday(next time I'll have daylight) so I will have a good look at it and trace the tubing. I'm steeling myself for pulling out all the trim in the windscreen cowl just to get to the tubing   I'll also have a hose joiner too 

thinking about this, I've been a bit of a div! This afternoon I should have swapped over the passenger / drivers side jet housings and seen if the issue followed the washer units or remained on the passenger side. That'll need to wait now til next daylight working which wont be this weekend as car away to get electrical issue investigated. Stupid cars  

would that one way valve cause the passenger side not to work while ok on the drivers side ?