Eigen

Too bad been looking for a front Rays for some time, but as I am located in Slovenia, its a no go.

Good luck with the sale, they look to be in great condition.

For sale, new in box, surplus to requirements as I've upgraded with aftermarket sway bars some time ago. Great quality poly bushings.

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/bushes/852-350z-de-prothane-front-sway-bar-bushing-kit-34mm-03-04-14-111514-1115-bl.html

27 pounds pay-palled and shipped to UK or within EU.

An absolute classic! Thanks for sharing. 

Thanks! Yeah its a great track, definitely worth going to. Not too far for you UK guys either and its right next to the Adriatic and Croatia's beaches!

A stop by the Nordscheliefe, onto the Swiss Alp passes, a stop at an Italian circuit and a finish in Rijeka at Grobnik before retiring to a nice beach town further south. Now that would be an actual Gumball worth attending!

Yeah its a great circuit, used to be a Moto GP circuit in the old days, which is why it's so smooth. They just recently installed new tarmac, which is why I am driving it, avoided it in the past due its reputation as a tire shredder.

Suspension is more or less set with bushing and anti-roll bars, I've been putting off the coil-overs for two seasons now as I need the ride height, stock I am at the bare minimum to get the car up the mountain road to my summer house, which I enjoy greatly as the first section of the road is a great alpine hillclimb. However, the lack of dampening is causing notable chassis oscillation and instability requiring more steering input and decreased predictability at track speeds, so something will have to be done. Maybe i'll just buy a set of shocks, if I can't decide.

I am also an Ohlins fan and they would be first choice without a doubt, however, for some reason the 350Z coilover set is not TUV approved, which means I cannot get the mod approved at the local version of your MOT, this could lead to a massive fine and other issues down the road, something I would prefer to avoid, hence my dilemma.

No problem, HEADPHONES, thanks for watching! and replying .

The Z really is a great handling car, however, as can be seen from the video my struts/shocks are on the way out.

Any recommendations? Been think KW V3, Bilstein or Ohlins..

However, I hear some have reliability issues with KW, Bilstein are more reliable but valved more for street, while Ohlins are nto TUV certified....

Any other brand with TUV certification that I am missing?

It can be quite an easy job, but if the center tube is rusted a major PIA. My driver's side came right off, the passenger side took me some time, it was literally rust welded. Even after cutting it up with a Dremel, I had to spray anti-rust WD40 for overnight to get it to budge with a larger pipe wrench. 

It can easily go from an afternoon job to taking an extra day imo, depending on the cars mileage.

Also be careful removing the nut from the captive chassis bolts, there have been cases where the bolt's were snapped off. Make sure the the breaker bar is on straight before torquing. (I pressed it against the chassis with a lift)

On 5/6/2018 at 21:32, Doom said:

Hi-jack away if you're posting sexy car noises 

Indeed, great in-car sound.

4 hours ago, 350Butcher said:

 

I'm sure you'll be as happy as I am with it

 

Really is a well worth doing upgrade and pound for pound one of the best value too.

 

My car's on PPE long tube manifolds, resonated Motordyne XYZ and Tanabe system.......to be honest it does bark at around 3-3.5k so probably would struggle to hear it but even before the manifolds it didn't make any noise, maybe the later gearbox doesn't rattle quite so much.......my old DE car though did make the rattle at those revs so I know what you mean noise wise.

 

Its an HR car and no extra vibration or resonance at all in to the cabin........car is silent cruising at 80-85 on the motorway

Thanks, that must be it, the HR is a noticeably smoother engine based on my experience. DE's, run like tractor engine's, but you can't argue with the torque.  

Great exhaust setup BTW, if I were running an HR, which actually responds to N/A mods, that's the direction I would go. Must howl in the upper RPM ranges, but I imagine its not exactly silent. 

Interesting, i will have to try it out. I also installed a steel fly for the same reason.

Agreed on the performance aspect though, an absolute godsend on tight tracks.

What exhaust are you running, btw? I do not notice the noise when i have my exhaust valve open, only under the stock exhaust.

Any extra vibrations with the mount? Bte are you running an HR or DE? 

On 4/30/2018 at 21:00, 350Butcher said:

 

No problem!!  Re engine mounts, its hard to review them as I changed so much at the same time as installing them. That said, on track the front end it definitely improved in terms of turn in and response and some of that I'd give to the mounts. If you've ever driven with something heavy loose in the boot then you'll know the effect it has when it jolts the car around, the same of when the engine has that small movement and jolts load through the front end...........its got to be better to get rid of that movement and the negative effects it has and its worth noting that like the gearbox mount there's no additional NVH 

 

 

You'll be very pleased with them

 

 

If its any other poly or solid type mount then other than being quiet I'm not sure it offers any more (or any less for that) in terms of support and control

 

Don't think anything is under additional stress just think it eliminates the movement under load that the gearbox experiences   

Yes i am particularly interested in the noise aspect. My current mount, from hardrace, uses a rubber bushing encased in alu, so performance wise it should be the same, perhaos better as it is a very stiff rubber.

However, it looks like the one you have installed uses more rubber, which could dampen noise a bit, which as ive mentioned is already enhanced on my end by a 19lb single mass flywheel.

What flywheel are your running in yours? How is the noise upto 2-3k under load? 

Yes, definitely look at the lower control arm bushings. Mine were torn completely with the the LCA having slid down the bushings shaft, I replaced them with the Whiteline LCA bushing set, I am happy so far, but I've only put 2k on the car since install.

In general the compression arm and LCA bushings are the weak spots of the front suspension, due to the direction of the forces being applied to them, if your compression arm bushings/arms are new, the LCA's are the second place to look,

1 hour ago, 350Butcher said:

I had read all about the unwanted noises when replacing this mount, when I bought their engine mounts I asked Vibra Technics if they could make me a matching gearbox mount, they said yes, I tested it and now its available and has been for a bit now. All the benefits that you'd want from the upgraded mount and I can assure you there's no unwanted noises at all! So if you do find it too much then get this ordered

 

http://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/nissan/350z/724/NIS234M/transmission_mount_

Very interesting, wonder how it would compare to my current mount, might check it out.

As far as the drivetrain is concerned, I do not believe and significant additional damage is occurring to the drivetrain, I would say that the transmission crossmember and its bolts are experiencing added stress due to the increase in forces being transmitted.

Yes, it's normal. It gets even more interesting with a lightened single mass flywheel. Sounds like a Huey at low revs, with my South Bend Quiet Disk / 19lb flywheel combo.

That said, I went for the HARDRACE, alu/rubber mount, as the hard poly 75A+ trans mounts are documented as being very loud/vibraty. With the HARDRACE mount the vibrations are pretty minimal, but the noise I considerably deeper/louder.

Final drive will do it, but expect fuel economy to suffer and high revs at highway speeds.

A small mod, that might be worthwhile if you have a DE is to get rid of the parasitic idler pulley, it will lose you about 500g of rotating mass from the engine, not a whole lot, but it is a very cheap mod ~20 pounds in parts, all you need is a smaller belt and a spacer, cheaper if you can machine the necessary spacer.

P

PM on its way

Please PM me a price as well.

Ship to Slovenia? If yes, please let me know what shipping would come out to.

For those looking, there are others selling on ebay (search for part #), I bought my lot recently

 

Differential oil:

Nissan SAE 80w-90 GL5

part # KE907-99932

2 litres

 

Gearbox/Transmission oil:

Nissan MT-XZ SAE 75w-80 GL4+

part # KE916-99932

3 litres

 

Coolant:

Nissan L248 (same as L250 but premixed)

10 litres (for full refil)

A word of warning, Nissan specifies 75W85 oil for the transmission, with the transmission being quite picky about the correct weight actually.

The correct number for the transmission fluid ends with a 1 not a 2, KE916-99931 is the correct 75W85 version of MT-XZ.

I had the same problem on my 04DE. I added copper grease to the connection of the slave cylinder to the clutch fork within the transmission. It is a pretty simple job, if you can lift the car.

My car is LHD so I am unsure if the location translates directly, but the on the left side of the transmission there is a rubber boot through which the slave/clutch arm goes, if you open it up you will see the connection, which has likely gone dry, add some copper grease to this joint and reinsert the rubber boot. This should clear up your problem, I know that it helped with mine.

Regards,

Eigen