Tallen-B

Went at the weekend to have my 350Z mapped and can't say a bad word about Abbey Motorsport or Mark.
Cars so much better for it and well worth the travelling.

Still for sale? 

Will be interested to see the gains with this. The last bit of the Exhaust system I wouldn't mind changing. 

That's the last thing I'd want to do! Spend enough on it as it is!

20 minutes ago, davey_83 said:

Just needed to be carried out on a warm engine x

It was originally when I first gave it a drive and noticed the issue I thought so may have done it incorrectly then wasnt up to the criteria when I tried again. 

Either way, glad it's done. 

9 hours ago, davey_83 said:

I'm based in Brum and can help out if you anywhere near-ish *sorry I'm on my phone and can't see full details. 

 

I've also cleaned out my TB and moved the butterfly when doing so, I managed to carry out the reset correctly how this MUST be done on a warm engine or up to temperature. Do the throttle position, idle control and throttle body resets one after the other. 

 

I thought I had done all this however, after my journey to work this morning (30 minute drive) I tried the idle relearn and low and behold it worked and dropped down to a lovely 750rpm. 

Thank you to everyone for the input, I can restore faith that I didn't break anything but won't go near the throttle body ever again! Haha.

14 minutes ago, andybp said:

did the valve close fully after you cleaned it ? and you didn't touch the grub screw on the outside of the body ?

if the valve fully closes when the engine is off and you've done the throttle reset correctly then maybe you do need a new one seems a bit odd to me

I believe I didn't touch a grub screw? But I'l going to investigate properly another day. 

It is plausible that I didn't do the relearn properly so I will attempt it again. 

10 minutes ago, Jack94 said:

Yeah same thing, like I said that should give you an indication whether or not the procedure worked. 

I'm not sure whether it is possible to damage the throttle body by moving it manually (some of the other guys on here probably know a lot more) but yeah I moved mine all the way when I cleaned it out and it's still absolutely fine. 

I thought it was but just wanted to double check, thank you. 

Okay, that's good to know. I'm probably just not doing it right then, perseverance it is then!

1 minute ago, Jack94 said:

Malfunction Indicator Light 

 

https://h-dev.co.uk/350z-reset-proceedure-pedal-dance/?v=79cba1185463

 

If you follow all the processes on that link when you get to the last one which is the most complicated you'll be able to tell if you've done it correctly because the MIL will flash then illuminate solid. 

You mean the EML light right? sorry just want to make sure.

As far as I was aware I did it correctly. But I will try again.

Just now, Jack94 said:

I completely moved the butterfly valve when I cleaned my throttlebody and it was fine after doing the reset procedures. Took me quite a few attempts because you have to be very precise with all the timings but you should be able to tell if you've done it correctly by looking at the MIL.

Sorry, MIL? 

21 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Plenty fully working 350Z Throttle Bodies in stock if required.

Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Would that be the likely issues now? Seems to operate fine just not at ideal and minimal throttle?

I have attempted it about three times and it always just settles back to 1100rpm. So unless I'm doing it wrong it must be something else? 

In my infinite wisdom I decided to clean the Throttle body on the 350 yesterday (VQ35DE) and manually moved the throttle body.

Now the car idles at 1100rpm and has the odd creep up to 1700 when I clutch in then settles.

Would I be right in saying that I've messed up the throttle body when I manually moved the butterfly? If so I assume I may need a new one?

Any info would be great on this, I did the manual reset and the other things regarding it but it always seems to settle back down to 1100rpm (thats when warm) and it's driving me mad.

8 hours ago, Adrian@TORQEN said:

Hi,

 

Just on the phone with them, they're looking into it. Please could you PM me your IP so they can check why it triggers this? Which internet provider as you using?

 

Thanks for your patience.

PM'd you regarding this. Managed a work around ordering by phone just in case anyone else currently has the issue too. 

Adrian is on the case though.

12 hours ago, Adrian@TORQEN said:

For some reasons the credit provider sees your IP as outside the UK. Are you actually in UK when you're trying that? Could you PM me your IP address if the answer is yes?

Most certainly am in the UK Adrian. 

I'll have a look later when I'm back from work. But will attempt on my mobile too. First time it's ever said that when using things like this in past. 

After confirming deposit amount it goes to this error, attempted on Chrome and Edge:

If it was a Nismo kitted one with OEM rays, a friend of mine.

Don't believe he's on the Forum.

And I thought my K1 was loud, that thing must be something else!

Haha yeah... Japspeed ain't got nothin' on this. I'm popular now, locally 😂

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I know of the "popular" you talk of, sometimes with a nod of the head or a certain type of glare right?

But seriously, how bad is it? Because the drone on the K1 can be pretty awful!

And I thought my K1 was loud, that thing must be something else!

P.S. Second hand OE front control arms and banana arms (provided they have bushes of 50% life or more) are better than brand new Dorman ones and usually cheaper. The Moog ones (see Torqen.uk) are likely to be better quality than the Dorman ones (from what I've read) and are only 10 quid each more expensive, IIRC. Another alternative is to simply re-bush the ones you have.

What's made you come to the conclusion that Dorman ones aren't perhaps as good as OE? Just curious. I mean a new bush is a new bush to me that should probably last the time I may own the car anyhow.

Doing a very similar thing myself, I've just purchased new banana arms which I have just fitted today and I'm awaiting new control arms too. I've already got HSD Mono's that I've put on there a year ago and some new drop links.

I had noticed over the last month that the front didn't feel "solid" like it used to, found out why today. Main ones you should look at doing would be the bananas and the lower control arms. The bananas tend to drop on the bushing or like mine did, just weren't attached anymore and just resting on the chassis. The same goes for the lower control arm too at the chassis my offside isn't central now (not good either).

I'd either get some decent second hand ones or even consider getting ones from Torquen like I did, I've gone with Dorman ones and they seem perfectly fine with zero issues installing. But if you can rebush them, it may be worth a try?

Received mine yesterday, top quality and fitment. Now I don't have to worry about losing my bag I toss over my shoulder in the chasm, know otherwise as the boot.

 

Cheers Ian.

 

You're very welcome. Thanks for asking me to make one for you. I think that's the first time anyone's ever described the the boot on a Zed as a chasm!

Slight exaggeration I know. But you can't exactly reach the end of the boot!

Received mine yesterday, top quality and fitment. Now I don't have to worry about losing my bag I toss over my shoulder in the chasm, know otherwise as the boot.

Cheers Ian.

Liking the look of the GT front splitter on your azure , mines been sitting in my spare bedroom since September

Any tips on fitting it ??

I was going to g-clamp in place then self taper each side of wheel arch then some tiger seal across the center ?

All I did was getting the bits that hook into the arch secured then went along making it all square etc.

I used some sikaflex to stick it on and used some nice sized bits of wood to rest on top of the grill section and ensure that stay stuck.

Self taping would be perhaps more recommended I got fairly lucky with mine, although I may be taking it off and refitting it a bit better. As always though, time and patience and a heat gun would be handy and a decent tube of sikaflex or similar to stick it on in other spots.

Thank you, certainly makes the car look better.

Welcome. Don`t forget we have a South West breakfast meet next month. Hope you can make it.

Ah okay, where do you have your meet to? I'll have to attempt going if I'm not working or something.

Great upgrades, loving the rota grids and Japspeed K1, but I'm slightly biase there. Looks great and super clean.

 

I'm in Exeter and we have a great southwest group and shows in honiton, and sidmouth.

Had a quick glance at yours, can see why you may be slightly bias towards it. Thank you, wasn't bad when I got it but certain needs a bit of TLC in spots.

I'll try keeping an eye out for the shows etc.