Treybleed

I know this is an old thread but I hope someone else has had the same issue as me. I can get to step 3 but no further because only the passenger door unlocks so I'm unable to relock with the same button as step 1! 

03 fairlady

Your the man! I'll have a look at getting the keys reprogrammed and see where that takes me.

Anyone had any experience solving this? its getting annoying now.

I've had this issue for about a year now (appears every now and then (maybe once or twice a month), only when i start the car.. once started no further issues so ignored it) but yesterday the car was going into limp mode which was weird and today driving today the engine went into limp then cut out completely, it took disconnecting the battery for an hour for the car to start (during this period the code reader was not powering up). Once it started i used the code reader again and im getting the good old DIfference of Key p1615 code. 

I had a second key cut and programmed about a year ago and this has happened on and off since then. This is the first time its cut out while driving though, normally it just stops the fuel pump from priming and after about 20-30 seconds it works.

Is it possible the dealership screwed up the key programming? or have i fried my ECU/BCM?

Any information would be amazing

note: I have pulled and checked every fuse, they are all good.

May I ask where you purchased these from?

Hello,

just looking into why my z's auto dipping side mirrors when in reverse are not working. Same for when you have the folding mirror switch in auto they do not open or close when you lock the car, has to be done with the on or off position only.

The car has had the upRev remap, is it possible this will have removed these features? or do I have a case of the previous owner messing with the electrics and screwed it up?

Car is an 03 model if that helps.

Thanks in advance!

Oh really, that will cause a horrible creaking feeling down the pedal as well?

I'll get it up on the jacks and get someone to push the clutch pedal down and see if I can hear it coming from the slave!

Thanks!

Hey guys,

Got the unbearable squeaky/creaky clutch pedal and looking for some advice from others experience, I have seen other posts but I have tried the whole spraying the pivot bearing and achieved no results.

Cold - Can just feel the creak and squeak, its bearable.

Hot/warm - Super loud squeak and creak can be felt across the whole pedal travel.

I had my clutch changed about 5000 miles ago (extreme clutch + smf) BUT didn't replace the pivot bearing (i know), just had it repaired by horsham instead as mine is an 03 and has the longer style bearing and couldn't get hold of 1 in time. Could this cause the creak feeling / squeak? or do i maybe need a new clutch fork? can they cause this issue?

I have greased the spring etc on the pedal in the car, no noise or creaking is coming from there, its all under the car.

Thanks in advance !

Sourced from ZMANALEX

Looking for a pair of rear non brembo calipers !

Thanks

I'm talking about the spark plug seals not the gaskets which he mentions were replaced? I think? when I thought they couldnt? ^^

May I ask how the seals on the purple rockers were replaced? I thought they couldn't be replaced as they are built in?

You guys not going to be stocking any more blue kits in the near future I assume ?

Hey is the drivers side rocker cover new?

Good shout! i've pm'ed Alex and hope he has some used UK ones!

Cheers for the help everyone!

Cool so I can buy universal clamps ! What sort of places did you go to get them fitted ?

Hello people!

Now as the temperatures have dipped quite a bit I'm having trouble starting the fairlady on them stupidly cold days, so thinking of converting and getting a big ol UK battery.

Did some tests and my current 48mh 430CCA halfords battery currently hits about 9.3- 9.5V sometimes 10V (on a warm ish morning) when cranking, so its really struggling. (sits at 12.2V before cranking)

I can buy a UK battery tray no problems, but where can I get hold of the UK terminals? Any car? Does anyone know where in Hampshire you can get these rewired? Any kind of garage? Nissan Dealership?

https://s18.postimg.org/fbmujjsw9/20161106_132930.jpg

I assume I remove converter and connect the blue (MPH Signal) and Yellow (KMH Signal) back together? and job done .. then i can put a MPH gauge in and will work????

Cheers !!

didn't think of that! .. i assume it would be throwing a cam sensor code if i get a reader?

After 2 hard cleaning sessions its looking 50% better i would say .. does look like your right its mostly just grime and @*!# from previous owner not cleaning it.. ever by the looks of it..

Hopefully after a couple more hard cleans it will be back to normal, cheers !

Hi guys, just quick question

My car has just started to struggle to start about 2-3 weeks ago, about 2-3 times a week it just wont turn over and after 4-5 tries it starts. Rest of the week it will start first time (i drive it every day to and from work) and on weekends.

I have a slight tick at the back of the engine bay behind the plenum i believe is a bad fuel damper tick .. Could this cause it to struggle to start sometimes?

Or is this likely a darker problem?

Thanks!

Will give it another hard clean and will report back !

Cheers guys.

Hi Guys

Is there anyway /product or method that will restore horrible faded and corroded window rubber?

I don't want to have to replace the rear window quarter as i know its welded in and will cost an arm and a leg to replace!.. Is there a good product or paint for this? maybe plastidip as its already rubber based?

Cheers!

Hi guys, I have an fast paced tick from the back of the engine bay behind the plenum. I have no power loss as far as I can feel.

Is it possibly the fuel dampers ? If it was a lifter would I have power loss / would the tick come from under the engine cover and not the back of the plenum itself ? Just worried as a lifter would cost me a fortune ! It's a 03 on 65k.

Any advice would help, thanks !

Cool thanks guys .. Yeah i'm going to be replacing the flywheel at the same time! just need to figure out which clutch / flywheel to get ..

How long can I use my clutch for / is safe to use for when you know it's dying ?

I'm getting slip and you can smell it burning when I go over 4-5k revs and give it some boot (no smell when you drive normally).

I've done the pull away tests and it's fine (Did standstill start from 2nd and 3rd). It's an 03, OEM clutch, done 65k. Going to replace but can't really afford it till a months time. Will it do any further damage / damage anything else the more I drive it as it is currently?

Cheers