mk1_nutter

Update: i ordered a replacement arm with the plastic ball connectors and all is fine.

update, it turned on the caliper was faulty on the opposite side. Both calipers were replaced and all is fine.

Sorry guys I meant Off Side. I did this half asleep after fighting with the door

Off side window motor needed please. I'm in slough.

Anything going? It needs to be the arm with one window washer.

Anything available especially near Heathrow?

I downloaded the app today and when I selected Japan OBD in settings it doesn't keep the preferenc and I'm not sure what the correct adaptor protocol is. Nor does it keep any other preferences. Any advice?

I've removed both calipers from the carriers and one at a time with a block of wood in the caliper, pushed the pistons out by pedal and back in by wind back tool. I noticed the wood on the OS was crushed where as the NS only had a circular indentation. I've also services the sliders on both sides. I'm very puzzled and thought of the abs unit being imbalenced. I'm not aware of any sensors

Hi rob are you referring to the speed sensors?

My car is a JDM

So I've been troubled with my OS rear pad only lasting me 2000 miles for the aecond time where the NS rear is still like new. I've made sure both calipers are fully functional and also replaced the NS caliper and hose with a working unit.

I'm now thinking the ABS unit is faulty. If I swap it out for a new/used unit do I need to have it programmed in like I've had to do on an Audi.

ok so a new update on this:

I've installed a used caliper and hose from a fellow forum member on the Nearside. Its braking a tad better however the drivers side is still stronger. After 2 weeks of being on the car i unbolted the calipers and working on one side at a time pushed the piston out through braking and used a wind-back tool to push them back in. I too checked the sliders to be fully functional.

I cannot fault either caliper however the Offside caliper is much stronger and the pads are at half life after 3 months of use whereas the nearside are barely used.

I find that i can physically move the Nearside caliper by hand but the Offside has little movement. Could i be looking at a faulty ABS unit? It feels that either the Nearside piston is being drawn back too much so when pushed out its not as forceful as the Offside or the Offside is not being drawn back enough.

also just to add it does seem to be braking slightly as the disc does get hot but no way as hot as the other side.

Hi Alex,

I fully dismantled the caliper: removed it from the car, removed all seal and also took out the piston. I found light rust on the top of the piston as there was heavy rust where the metal clip holds the dust seal into. I cleaned this all and reassembled. I bleed the caliper with an Visiibleed and had no bubbles. (I will check again on the weekend with my compressor draw through tool)

I recently bought this to see if i have any air leaks when pressuring the system as i am not loosing any fluid but the cap is different.

I noticed the inside of the piston (the area facing outwards) is very rusty and flaky so i too removed any loose pieces and ran a dremel sanding attachment inside.

On assemble i ran the piston in and out.

I'm wondering now if the rust inside the piston is making it imbalanced / if i need a new seal inside the caliper / if a used/new caliper will fix the problem.

Do these cars have valves for the rear brakes?

I'm also going to check the flex pipe to make sure its not expanding this evening.

I took the caliper off today and striped it down and gave it a good clean and de-rust as well as measure the seals to order new ones.

It's still the same which makes me worry as I did test the caliper before sliding it over the pads.

Could this potentially be an abs problems?

Cheers Alex,am I looking at a new caliper or a rebuild?

I bought the Z back in Sept. And it would always squeek at the rear. I always kept an eye on the one side that squeeked but didnt realise all this time that the offside was over compensating and in Nov I found that the offside pads were down to metal but the nearside were like new, including the discs.

I found the pins were not as free as they should be.

I ordered new boots and cleaned the pins and carriers and installed new brakes and bled them.

The nearside seemed to have more bubbles when using a draw through tool so I bled that side manually with and ezibleed.

This weekend 4 weeks on, I noticed that the squeek is still there and the disc hasn't even lost its machining lines where offside has.

I removed the slider pins to make sure there were fine and they are. I also had someone sit in the car and press the pedle as i observed the caliper moving.

Am I looking at a potential air leak on the piston seal?

If so do I order a rebuild kit or order a new caliper....do the JMD use a caliper that's used on other model nissan

Thanks

tried that. no luck unfortunately

tried that. no luck unfortunately

My front wipers don't seem to return to the bottom unless the window is very wet. Anybody had this problem before.

hi need some help sourcing new or used slider pin boots for non brembo rear brakes

You can just install the guages but the clock won't work. You need the brain to make this work.

Hi I have tried searching the forum but I'm not having the greatest luck. 350z is a new car to me and I'm used to my dash telling me when the car is due a service or a selection of actions that will tell me a service is due in so many miles time.

Is this sort of thing possible on the 350z?

Thanks in advance.

found my answer here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/56884-how-to-set-clock-for-uk-tripple-gauge-fitted-to-jdm-solution-added-3112013/page__fromsearch__1

hi sorry to dig thus up but did your clock work as I've changed my jdm to UK and the clock just flickers