checkers88

It's a DE engine but not sure if it's a revup or not .

Will the revup one not fit?

What was the mileage on your engine?

 

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72000.

I think with the cost of a 2nd hand engine, it makes much more sense to me to just buy an uprated bottom end.

 

Contact Torqen.

Who is torqen?

 

Pro trader on here

 

And I see you have started another thread here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/108518-350z-needs-new-engine/

 

Which has already attracted options you can follow up on and Emperor has just posted up about a a Zed recently arrived with a good engine

I'm not sure how to search forum members using tapatalk. Can you some way tag me in the post where the engine is available? Sorry for being senile.

Does anyone know which engine this is?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-350Z-350-Z-ENGINE-3-5-V6-ENGINE-VERY-LOW-MILEAGE-/172197256002?hash=item2817c19b42:g:JDEAAOSwT~9WhlZa

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You can't find a DE engine for less than 5k?

 

It's on finance? The garage didn't offer a warranty of any kind?

 

Very quick search on ebay has uncovered one for 1250 quid and one for 1400 quid.

 

Are you thinking you'll get an engine for a few hundred quid?

Of course I don't expect it to be a few hundred quid. I was expecting to find them for around £1000-1500 but I haven't been able to find any DE engines for less than £1800+.

One seller on eBay has an engine but he doesn't know which model it is. He tried fitting it to his 2004 Z but he mentioned something about the pulleys being the wrong formation or size, he can't remember much and he has just had the engine sat for 12 months in his garage. If I can figure out which engine type it is it might solve my problem.

Can I ask where you found the ones for 1200? My car is a UK 2005 DE model btw.

Im sorry if I've posted thing in the wrong section I couldn't find the classifieds. Recently my engine has started knocking badly and the garage seems to think it's either the bottom end or piston related so after ringing around a lot of garages and weighing up getting my blown motor repaired or replaced it seems to be ever so slightly cheaper to just replace the engine itself. The issue I'm having now is sourcing one, I need a vq35de but I can't find one that isn't the price of a car. Does anyone know of a decent engine that is for sale that isn't the price or a house? Annoyingly I've found a HR engine for £1500 but I've heard too many modifications will be needed to get it working.

I'm really stuck guys and I really need some help. Annoyingly I can't just ignore it as the car is on finance. Any ideas on what I can do?

I think with the cost of a 2nd hand engine, it makes much more sense to me to just buy an uprated bottom end.

 

Contact Torqen.

Who is torqen?

I managed to get it to garage this morning and after 4-5 mechanics scratched their beards while inspecting it they came to the conclusion that it's cylinder or piston related. Oil is spitting out of the exhaust pipe. Firstly incase it's the big end they're gonna pull the sump off and have a look. I'll know more tomorrow.

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I just don't have the money for that. If it's a case of it needs an entire new engine the cars a gonner.

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So I think my 350z has thrown in the towel. Today while out on a first date of all things I noticed my car was making some faint knocking sounds from the front, as I arrived at my destination only a mile or 2 away I noticed it was much louder and sounded like the bottom end had gone (knocking in time with the revolution of the crank). I pulled over and lightly revved it with my head under the car and it's clear that it's coming from underneath.

I had no choice but to abandon my date (for which she was understanding about) and take my car home. As I was driving it back I noticed the red oil light flash up but only for a couple of seconds. I pulled over again to check there wasn't an oil leak anywhere then I stupidly pulled the dipstick out while the engine was running and got covered in it. It's fair to say I've had better days/dates but incase there is something else that this could be I'm thinking my engine is kaput.

If I leave the car sat idling you can hear a slight knock which gets progressively worse at the revs rise. I'm not mechanic but from a quick search online people with similar symptoms are claiming the bottom end has failed and it basically needs an entire new engine.

What the hell do I do?

I know, I got the impression it was nothing compared to that. Gutted cause I really want them.

 

Really really!!!!!!

How much is he asking for?

Varrstoen ES 5.5.2 19×10.5" +22 with 235/35 tyres. Great looking wheels although I'd definitely avoid running them in the winter!

 

Looks like Tarmac Sportz can get hold of them - Varrstoen ES5 Wheels.

 

Thanks a bunch! And not to sound stupid but why not use them in winter? They known for corrosion?

 

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Polished faces don't particularly like our UK salty roads.

 

I've had some and kept them clean in the winter, just used water and poorboys wheel sealant, Had mine through three winters without any corrosion

Ahh fair enough, so how much is a set for the Z? I wonder what my original rays are worth.

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Varrstoen ES 5.5.2 19×10.5" +22 with 235/35 tyres. Great looking wheels although I'd definitely avoid running them in the winter!

 

Looks like Tarmac Sportz can get hold of them - Varrstoen ES5 Wheels.

 

Thanks a bunch! And not to sound stupid but why not use them in winter? They known for corrosion?

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Every time I see this I just want to copy it.

Does anyone know what wheels they are?

imho its the spacers..

Is it worth mentioning that its had those spacers long before this issue happened?

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it will be the Geometry, if you dismantle the suspension and change the springs you need to have the geo checked to make sure you didn't knock something out when it was apart. most places will check for free.

 

or go for a proper 4 wheel laser alignment £70 - £100 depending on who and where does it. but the difference can be huge.

 

as long as tyres match across the axle they don't have to match front and back, but running the same tyre and tread depth can improve handling it won't be the route cause unless your fronts are a set of nankangs.

 

also new tyres take 300 -500 miles to lose the release agent from the tyre moulds. some tyres are worse than others for it and it can make it feel very skittish until the tyres bed in.

Just for the record the front tyres are Kumhos, tread is around 3-4mm. The rears are brand new Continental Sport Contact 5s. Besides the springs the only other changes are the 30mm wheel spacers, it's got 2 new front banana arms (control arms) and a full set of brembo pads. Perhaps while it was all in pieces it's just knocked the geometry out. It's my next port of call anyway as the rear camber is negative, the front is normal but the tracking is slightly out.

I've lowered cars and stuff before and never had one that felt like this afterwards, unless it's just really really out. Guess I'll find out next week. I'll post the results.

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Unevenly torqued wheel nuts I've found causes this, rather than driving style.

I don't think that's it, they were put back on at the suggested 90lbft of torque

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You probably need to get your geometry set up after the drop.

That's the next step, I've read on here that it can also be caused if the shocks are on the way out.

 

Did you drop it just with springs? No matching dampers?

Just springs.

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You probably need to get your geometry set up after the drop.

That's the next step, I've read on here that it can also be caused if the shocks are on the way out.

Have you got the large wheels at the back and the smaller at the front?

Standard Ray's 18s

I've noticed recently my car has some worrying handling characteristics, made worse by cold or wet weather. When I'm going around a corner, even a slight one (not fast or even on the power) the car seems to spaz out and lose grip. The little traction light flashes up and I can feel the car braking on its own to correct the slide. It's not sliding like drifting but more the feel of it going light as if you just went over ice. Every time it happens that TC light is blinking away on the dash. It just feels unsafe to drive now, I can't over take on anything but a perfectly smooth straight road without the risk of it cutting the brakes in mid overtake. If I turn of TC then it just loses grip all together.

It has 30mm lowering springs, 30mm spacers and 2 new continental sport contact 5 tyres on the rear, the camber is a little offset due to the springs but I'll have it aligned next week.

It's only started doing it since I fitted the springs, the spacers have been on a while and the tyres (which are 3 days old) haven't helped as I thought it may be down to low tread.

Any ideas?

I just seem to be throwing money at my car recently. One of the issues I'm having is steering wobble/vibration under braking. It's only really evident above 50mph but say coming off a slip road on the motorway at 70mph the steering wobble is awful feels like the wheels are wonky or something. My first assumption was warped discs, about 60 miles of driving ago I had the front and rear pads changed for brand new Brembo ones and it seems to worse since the garage fitted them (it wobbled a bit before fitting them too).

Is there anything else besides warping that could be causing it to do that?

Any help would be appreciated.

I went for the JWT pop charger, seems to be the obvious choice for this car if you don't want to empty your wallet.

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My quarrel isn't so much with the overall quality as such as I didnt expect a perfect unit, it's with the seller himself, he's been extremely difficult and I'm having to resort to opening a PayPal case to get to sorted. Thank fully they are being very helpful and my refund is on its way. I just wanted to warn others that if you do need to return an item to this seller he can be extremely difficult to deal with.

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That's not good at all, now get yourself a decent one from Tarmacsportz.

I will be doing! Serves me right for not doing my homework first. This was just a warning to other ebay users to spare them the headache of returning shabby products.

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