shooze

I just rebuilt my two fans and put them back on the car. The one that was now not working at all (passenger side) now works perfectly and spins when the AC is on and when the car gets above 95°c.

The driver's side one wasn't spinning at. Before I rebuilt it it would spin slowly with help.

I turned the car off and smoke was coming from this drivers side fan. I've taken it all out again and found that the coil is all blackened. I can't see what was wrong with what I did inside. It span fine and looks exactly the same as the other one.

There are two wiring clips going to the fans and I'm wondering if I got them backwards. Does it matter which fan is plugged into which connector block and if it does which is which?!

I found a diagram (please see) that mentions fan 1 and 2 but which is which?

I just rebuilt my two fans and put them back on the car. The one that was originally not working at all (passenger side) now works perfectly and spins when the AC is on and when the car gets above 95°c.

The driver's side is now not spinning at all where before I rebuilt it, it would spin slowly with help.

I turned the car off and smoke was coming from this drivers side fan.

I've taken it all apart again and found that the coil is all blackened. I can't see what was wrong with what I did inside it looks perfect.  It span fine and looks exactly the same as the other one.

There are two wiring clips I disconnected which connect to the fans and I'm wondering if I got them backwards. Does it matter which fan is plugged into which connector block and if it does which is which?! One has red and yellow wires and the other doesn't.

1 hour ago, karlh said:

The path from the sensor to the gauge is a bit complicated.  The sensor is wired to the ECU.  The ECU sends the temperature in a digital word over the CAN bus to the Unified Meter and A/C Amp, the box behind the temperature and fan controls.  The Unified Meter and A/C Amp then sends its own signal to the instrument cluster over a dedicated digital bus.  The microprocessor in the instrument cluster massages this signal and outputs a voltage to the gauge.  Like the fuel gauge, the coolant temperature gauge is damped.  Small changes up or down won't show up on the needle.

 

In my 2005 the needle normally reads just below half way.  Given the fact that your ECU reading looks good, the problem could be anywhere from the ECU to the gauge.  The Service Manual I have for my car says the needle should point in the cold region for temperatures of approximately 50C, in the middle for temperatures between 70C and 105C, and in the hot region for temperatures of approximately 130C.  I'm assuming the hot region is the red zone at the top of the gauge, but the manual doesn't define cold or middle.  However, the manual does include a signal validity check.  The Nissan Consult diagnostic tool can read the temperature provide from the ECU to the Unified Meter and A/C Amp and the temperature from the Unified Meter and A/C Amp to the instrument cluster.  If the temperatures agree, the manual says to perform an ECU self-diagnosis, which simply means check for current and pending fault codes.  If the temperatures don't agree, the manual says to replace the Unified Meter and A/C Amp.

 

While my manual is for US spec cars, is suspect your car functions in the same manner.  Hope this helps.

 

 

Really appreciate you taking the time to reply mate. I shall have a bit of an investigate. I guess its not really an issue I its within than centre section but it would be nice to have it sitting where most others do! At least I know from the ECU its running at a normal temperature. 

Looks like the Unified Meter/A/C Amp might be what's throwing it out slightly

Cheers bud! Any idea why the gauge would read high??

Anyone?? 

Is there only one? 

My old Nissan Terrano had one for the gauge and one for the ECU. My ECU reads the temperature as 81-85 during normal operation and the fan kicks in at 100. 

But the gauge sits 2/3 of the way up all the time as in the picture. 

What would be causing the gauge to read high even though the ECU has it at normal temp?

Just as an update guys, I've got my OBD2 scanner sorted and the car runs solid at 80-90°c so all good there. 

I'm just confused as to why the needle is so high. Anyone have any ideas???

Would changing the coolant temperature sensor do anything? On my old Terrano the ECU and gauge had different temperature sensors. Is this the case on the Z?

Bit of a ressurection here, but does anyone know?? Should both kick in or just one?

My car is the same as the OP. Only ever seen the driver's side turn.

Haha have done thanks mate! 

Hey Guys,

After an oil pressure switch. Don't really want to trust a knock off one and genuine Nissan ones are stupid money. 

On 25/04/2019 at 19:46, HEADPHONES said:

Your sunset orange really stands out there, glowing in the sunshine.

Almost looks like a bespoke custom paint job amongst the whites.

Can definitely understand why Nissan chose it as their signature colour on release. 

Cheers dude, it is a lovely colour in the sun. 

Suprises me how small the Z looks compared to modern hatches!

Bit of a bank holiday blast! 

Thanks for the replies guys! 

I did a 200 mile trip with it yesterday and it didn't miss a meet or vary at all. The fans also work for sure.

Unfortunatelymy OBD scanner had a broken screen which is currently in for repair but I'll try and borrow a friend's today! What temperature should it be running at on the scanner?

Looking for a set of Coilovers. Preferably ones that keep the rear suspension as it was designed with the seperate spring. 

Hey Guys,

What is the normal temperature a gauge should read at? Mines sat at 2/3 constantly. It doesn't vary at all in traffic or motorway and it never boils over or overheats. Just reads a little high.

Is this normal? If its not what's likely to be causing it? I thought maybe a sticky thermostat? The car runs perfectly. 
 

STILL for sale

Still for sale! Not interested in swaps Im afraid I dont have a car any 350 wheels would fit! 

Still for sale! 

Still for sale!!!

Still for sale mate yes.

Bump - Still for sale. 

Open to SENSIBLE offers. I've had some offers of like 40% less than asking!!! 

Hey Guys,

I also have a set of Enkei RPF01 18" wheels in a ET15 offset with a 9.5" front and 10.5" rear configuration.

These are pretty wide wheels and you will need your rear arches rolled to run them.

They are in good condition with a few small kerb rashes, nothing major at all. The tyres on the rear are 275/35/18 Khumos and are basically shot and will need replacing. The front wheels have no tyres on them at the moment.

I am looking for £1100 for these. They are so light its unreal for an 18" wheel.

I can post if postage is covered else pickup from Cardiff or possibly Plymouth if a deposit is paid.

Still for sale guys! 

Still for sale guys. Price reduced. 

SOLD