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Pedro85

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Posts posted by Pedro85

  1. Yeah got it cheers,

     

    Ill give him a ring tomorrow and see if he's in to ask about the oil pressure.

     

    I did ask him about the coil packs being mixed up and he said he had tried it both ways, either way though that wouldn't account for all six cylinders being miss timed.

     

    Ill see what he says about the flywheel/CPS too.

     

    Thanks for all the help guys.

  2. That pretty much sums up the problem.

     

    I should add that my first comment about one of the cylinders missfiring was incorrect, that was from my conversation with the mechanic this morning not long after i had woken up. I went in to see the car in person and ignition is actually happening in the plenum on all six cylinders.

     

    Any help you guys provide would be really appreciated, i'm now over 3 months in to trying to get my car sorted and this may be the final nail in the coffin for my zed....

     

    Cheers

  3. My main concern with a second hand engine is its history and reason for it being sold.

     

    GreenLandy, Was the engine removed from your own car?

     

    I could look into having it collected, or i do have access to a flatbed and some ratchet straps :p

  4. Hi guys,

     

    Unfortunately im looking for a new engine for the zed. Somehow mine has managed to blow a hole in one of its exhaust valves, which sent bits down into the cylinder and ruined the cylinder.

     

    I would prefer a refurbished engine, so please let me know if anyone knows where i can source one. Otherwise i would consider second hand.

     

    My car is a UK 2005GT

    Looking for a long block.

     

    Cheers

    Peter

  5. My car has been suffering from the same issue, unfortunately it worked out to be something worse than a bad plug or coil.

     

    As other have said, to identify the missfiring cylinder(s) you can unplug each coil pack one at a time while the engine is running. If the engine noise changes and it begins to run even rougher, then that cylinder is working. If you unplug one and there is no change, that cylinder is missfiring. They aren't that accessible so you'll want to remove your strut bar and engine cover first. Remember to release the tension on the strut bar first :p

     

    Once you have identified the missfiring cylinder(s) you can swap the coil pack from it with a known working pack. If you start the engine and the fault has jumped to the previously working cylinder, then the coil pack is bad. If there is no change you can swap your spark plug and do the same.

     

    If there is still no change you can swap the fuel injector from the faulty cylinder(s) with known working injectors. You'll need to remove the plenum to do this though.

     

    If after all of that the fault remains on the same cylinder(s) then you might want to do a compression check. This is where my problem was, cylinder 4 failed the compression test. It failed a wet compression test too which would indicate a valve problem, its in a garage at the moment and i'm looking at either a head swap or a new engine.

     

    Cheers

    • Like 1
  6. I pulled the passengers side cam sensor today, gave it a clean but it looked pretty good. No oil in the plug.

     

    Reinstalled but no difference. Is there any way to test them to confirm 100% if they're working or not? I did a resistance check over the contacts which seemed to be fine.

     

    I did notice on the end of the sensor there was a mark that looked like it had been attached to a sprue, kinda like you would get on a model aircraft part. I think its just a manufacturing mark but i'm not sure.

     

    Cheers

  7. Hi guys

     

    As a followup to my previous thread on injectors, i'm still having issues resolving a P0300 code.

     

    So far i have replaced all of the injectors with known working parts from Alex, I have replaced all of the spark plugs and replaced the three coils on the passengers side.

     

    I also cleaned the MAF sensor and after doing a live scan it seems to be working fine, on a cold startup it was sitting at about 7g/s which fell slowly as the car warmed up and the revs dropped.

     

    Today i did some electrical testing on the coil pack and injector wiring. All of the coils were being supplied 11.7V and the injectors were 12V or slightly below with the ignition on.

     

    Resistance testing of the coils themselves seemed to indicate that they are all fine. I'm not really sure what figures i'm looking for (i don't know what range the multi-meter was set to, i'm pretty clueless about electronics) but they all came out around the same, and since i know that at least some are working it would indicate that they all are.

     

    When i changed the spark plugs i noted that the plug from cylinder four was heavily soiled with black carbon build-up, when i pulled the new plug today from cyl four it had started to go black again.

     

    The car is still vibrating and sounds like a Subaru.

     

    So far i think i can rule out:

    Injectors

    Coils

    Wiring looms

    Spark plugs

    MAF

     

    My next plan is to get myself a compression tester to see if there's something going wrong in cylinder four.

     

    I've been speaking to Alex about it as I've been going but i'm sure hes a busy guy, don't want to spam him with messages every day.

     

    Does anyone have any other ideas? Or comments on what I've done so far?

     

    Thanks all

  8. I'm going to give Nissan a ring tomorrow and see how much they want for news ones, if they have them. Otherwise ill get used ones from Alex, cheers for the offers though everyone.

     

    I decided to change my plugs yesterday to eliminate them as a source of the problem, they were needing done anyway. I'm glad i did, one of them in particular was in a terrible state:

     

    http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Spiers101/media/20160514_1853381_zps0sujs2zd.jpg.html

     

    I think i've found out which cylinder is giving my problems.

  9. Hi guys,

     

    Last week my engine started sounding like a Subaru and the check engine warning light appeared on my dash. I took it into a garage and it was diagnosed as being two of the injectors failing. The mechanic put some injector cleaner into my tank, which cleared one of the injectors and said to run it a little over the weekend to see if the second one starts working again. If it doesn't i was advised to take it to a specialist.

     

    I'd like to do the work myself, and from what I've read on here and other sites it doesn't look too hard to swap them out.

     

    The only problem is finding a source to buy them from, preferably in the UK. My car is stock and all i can find are higher volume than the 320cc@3.5bar injectors that the car has as standard. I'm looking to buy new, i don't care if they are genuine Nissan as long as they are decent enough and OEM fit.

     

    Does anyone have any suggestions? Probably going to replace all 6 if i can get a hold of them.

     

    Cheers

  10. I've been having some trouble with my rear tail lights recently and during my attempts to fix it I found a low profile mini 25 amp fuse in the driver's side foot-well. I'm not sure where it came from, I've checked the interior fusebox and there doesn't seem to be any place for it there.

     

    I have also since noticed that my windscreen washers aren't working, could these be related? I've been opening up the bonnet pretty often and have accidentally pulled the steering wheel adjustment lever a few times, I thought it might have fallen out from under there but upon inspection I cant see any place for it.

     

    On the subject of my lights, I recently had a new head unit installed by Halfords, so I'm focusing my efforts there first. I added a new ground but whenever I start the car it just blows the fuse, even with the radio fuse removed preventing the stereo from powering up.

     

    I have noticed that on my centre console, under the little storage bit behind the handbrake, there are a couple of un-plugged leads that don't currently seem to be doing anything. When I bought the car it had a Parrot system installed with cables coming up through the bottom of this compartment for AUX, Ipod etc. I had it removed when the head unit went in as it didn't work properly so they may just be left over from that.

     

    It would also seem that my sidelights (first setting) aren't working, but low-beam and high-beam are fine.

     

    Any help you guys can render would be most appreciated, Its starting to get dark, really going to need my lights soon!

  11. Hi there

     

    After an overheat on the way to work last week i have discovered that my radiator fans are on the way out. I bought a Mishimoto shroud/fan assembly and i'm looking to install it myself over the weekend.

     

    I've spent a while looking over the forums and searching the internet for guides but i still have some questions.

     

    Is it necessary to lift the car up and remove the front under tray? I don't have access to a ramp and don't own any stands. I have read that the fan shroud is only fixed at the top, with the bottom attachment being tabs.

     

    Do I need to solder the connections? I am thinking of using heat shrink connectors, I don't own a soldering iron and have limited experience using one.

     

    When disconnecting the OEM shroud, is it just a case of un-bolting it and lifting it out? Will i need to drain the radiator and disconnect hoses to make room to remove it?

     

    I have an 05 350z with an OEM radiator/fan shroud

     

    Any help is greatly appreciated

     

    -Peter

  12. Hi there

     

    Two weeks ago I bought an 05 350z from a friend of my brothers and i absolutely love it. Hopefully ill make one of the meets up here sometime soon.

     

    Unfortunately i've created an account to seek advice on installing a radiator fan after an overheat on the way to work last week!

     

    -Peter

    post-21981-0-47896900-1396034990_thumb.jpg

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