Pedro85

I think the valve covers need a small application of silicon when you change the gaskets, a spot in each corner if i remember correctly.

Bookmark this link, its very handy, have a look under "EM" (engine mechanical) and you should have all the info you need.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-350z-factory-service-manuals.html

According to page 35 of the Engine Management section of the field service manual the standard plugs are NGK.

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=350Z/coupe/2005/em

Here's the service manual for the 2005, you should find what you're looking for under EM (Engine Mechanical) or MT/AT (Manual/Auto Transmission).

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2005/

Other years are available too on that site.

Cheers

Have you confirmed 100% what the problem is yet?

I replaced plugs, packs and injectors when i had the same issue before i had nailed the source of the problem, could have saved myself some cash.

How many coils/packs would be replaced for that £350? Did you ask which cylinders were effected? When i asked nissan for six of each they wanted over a grand.

Keep an eye on the for sale section here too, seen a few OEM exhausts being sold recently, if you're lucky you might be able to just replace the part that has failed.

Hello,

I had this issue, never really got to the bottom of it. My car would start fine cold then struggle when it was warm, it would only start and stay running if i applied some throttle. I have read that it might be related to a dirty MAF sensor or throttle body and it isn't really anything to worry about.

However, a few months later my engine packed in with a burnt exhaust valve. It's unlikely that you have the same problem, but something to keep in mind if you can't find an answer to the problem.

Cheers

The Mishimoto fans are very loud as standard, not sure if there is any way to reduce the noise level. They work very well though.

So it turns out the cooling fans are fine, i just backed out too early when letting the engine heat up.

I put it back to the mechanic last night, he said he checked it over and found nothing wrong, so he let the car heat up and the fans came on just like they should.

The only thing now is the A/C fan not working, the mechanic told me low gas pressure could prevent it from working, does that sound right?

Cheers

The exact same happened to me a few weeks ago, almost pulled out a perfectly good engine because of it!

Right a bit more info:

I took the car for a 10 min drive to get it up to temp, then let it idle for a while when i got back. The temp gauge still didnt go up past just below the halfway point but the fans never kicked in. I could feel the coolant hoses getting really hot so i backed out and turned the car off.

I noticed that when you put the rear window de-mister on there was an audible click heard in the cabin, but when i hit the a/c button there was nothing. Maybe there isnt meant to be but i wanted to have a look at the relays so i got into the IPDM again. When trying to remove the top relay i accidentally popped the little "cap" that covers it, rather than removing the relay itself, and presto the drivers side fan kicked in. This is without the engine running. So i removed all three and took off the caps, reinstalled them and manually operated the relays. When the top relay is closed, the drivers side fan activated. When both of the other two (bottom and middle) were closed the passengers side fan activated.

So the fans are working fine. Either the relays are faulty or it would seem they aren't getting the signal to close for some reason.

Cheers

The fan shroud itself is plugged in, i tried swapping the plugs around in case they were in backwards but there was no difference.

Im not sure about the air con gas, if i cant sort this today ill ask the garage about it. Im just away to pull the center console to check that the cabin controls are connected properly, they would have had to mess about under there to disconnect the gearbox i imagine.

Not sure what else it could be. The engine hasnt overheated, the temp gauge was steady sitting just under half way when i was driving it so i might run the car up to temp and see if the other fan kicks in, in which case it would just be a problem with the a/c fan.

Cheers

I don't have one handy unfortunately, i can get one from work on monday but by then i'm probably just best taking it back to the garage.

Ive been reading up a bit more.

I see that there are three relays in the IPDM that cover the rad fans, should they "click" when i put the A/C on when the ignition is on but the engine isnt running?

Its hard to hear when the engine is going.

Thanks

Hi guys, me again

I recently had my engine swapped out after it went bang, after a fair bit of effort the engine is now running really nice.

I haven't been able to take it for a long drive since i got it back though, so i took it out last night for half an hr to give it a good run. I noticed that when i put the air con on the radiator fan didnt kick in, which makes me concerned that neither are working.

I swapped out the 40A fuse for the rad fan in the fuse box infront of the battery and the 10A fuse for the A/C in the hidden box behind the battery with known working fuses but that hasn't solved it.

Any ideas on what could cause this when doing an engine swap? When i got the car back the battery terminals were overtightened, meaning they weren't secure and i had intermittent power drops until i was able to secure them on properly. After the battery has been disconnected and you start the car for the first time the A/C is always on as default, could something have blown when i started the car for the first time?

Also it should be noted that i have the mishimoto fan shroud.

The garage that did the work is closed at the weekend so if i cant sort it by monday illl just take it round for the guy to have a look at.

Thanks!

Just picked up the car, took it for a short run and it feels fantastic.

The engine seems to be running nice and smooth, oil pressure is good and it sounds as good if not better than my old engine.

Maybe its because i haven't driven it for months but it seems quicker too. Perhaps my old engine was on its way out for a while before it went bang.

On an unrelated note i got the clutch changed while the engine was out and what a difference! The biting point is about a mile below where it used to be.

Apologies to Jon for the stress, and big thanks to Alex!

Cheers guys, heres hoping it runs for another 100,000 miles

Peter

I don't want to get my hopes up too high, i've been disappointed too many times with this, but my fingers are firmly crossed!

Hi guys

I spoke to the mechanic today and received some very promising news.

He retested the oil pressure with a new gauge and got a reading of around 15 psi, which was an improvement. So he re-fitted the flywheel, which did sort the timing issue, and re checked the oil pressure. This time it was up to about 25 psi. So he took it for a short test drive and checked again when he got back and got a reading of 50 psi at idle. He said it seemed the more the engine was run the better the reading. He is keeping it over the weekend to check it a few more times but if its fine by Monday ill be picking the car up after work.

We aren't completely out of the woods yet but its seems there may be light at the end of the tunnel.

Alex - You may have really saved the day here, really appreciate it.

Ill update the thread on monday, just hope its good news!

Cheers

Ok mate ill update the thread as soon as i hear any news.

Cheers

Thanks Alex, really appreciate it

Hopefully the timing issue is due to the flywheel being fitted incorrectly.

What happens if he checks the oil pressure again and still gets a negative reading?

Could the lack of oil pressure be caused by the timing issue, or will it definitely be a separate problem?

Also, if there really is no oil pressure, will the engine have been damaged from the attempts to start it?

Cheers guys!

The car is at the garage yeah, I've paid him for the work done so far.

Ill pm you his details, don't want to go publicly shaming someone.

I'm actually based in Ellon just north of Aberdeen, but if you could get in touch with him somehow it would be most appreciated

Yeah i'm inclined to agree,

Anyone have any suggestions? Would be really appreciated.

Cheers

Yeah ive just been down to see him.

Firstly according to him the engine does use hydraulic lifters? He seemed pretty sure about it.

He is judging the oil pressure mostly by the oil warning light on the dash, he says it should turn off almost instantly after starting the engine. He started the car so i could hear, sounded very rough and the oil warning light remained on and there was no oil pressure reading on the cabin gauge. Also with the throttle held open it wouldn't rev past about 1100.

As far as the CPS and flywheel are concerned he said that the flywheel could only be fitted one way and that the sensor was undamaged.

Also he told me that there were no ECU codes and that if the flywheel was out of alignment he would expect some kind of code to be thrown up.

Basically because of the oil pressure problem he says that its pointless to continue trying to fix it and that i should just get it removed and look for another engine. Personally i would like a second opinion though, preferably from someone who knows these cars.

I think my best option would be to have it recovered and sent somewhere else, but i don't know of anyone nearby who can help.

Cheers

When trying to diagnose the problem with my original engine i did unplug the MAF while it was running to see if it made a difference and the engine did run without it, just pretty rough.

I was having a read of this:

http://www.underhoodservice.com/tech-tip-nissan-and-infiniti-dual-mass-flywheel-installation/

According to the comments its actually the small square hole that is to be used for alignment, correct?

Cheers

1)Yeah i asked him about this and he said he had checked.

2) Ill ask about this when i speak to him on Monday.

3) Same as above

4) Also same.

5) He has put oil in it yes,

6) The spark plugs are fairly new, they are Bosch plugs which i know isn't recommended but they ran fine in my old engine, besides the 4th cylinder which was buggered.

7) Im not sure about this but he did compression test the engine before fitting which would have been done by hand.

8) He didnt say anything about codes but ill ask him to check on Monday.

9) My car is a UK 05 which is the same as the donor car so there shouldn't be any compatibility issues.

He said that he had the plenum off and observed flames coming from all six intakes so i dont think its related to the coil pack wiring if this is the case.

If this guy cant do the work, is there anyone around Aberdeen that anyone can recommend?

Cheers