synolimit

These cars are amazing at tuning by themselves thanks to the ecu and dual wideband O2's. I've driven with larger MAF tubes, bigger injectors and even e85. The ecu can comp a ton. We did a 2015 with intake, my ported TB's, upper and lower manis, long tube catless headers and exhaust and gained almost nothing from tuning and very very little AFR adjusting.

What's the typical improvements over normal pads?

Zero. Ceramic pads have ZERO performance over a semi metallic pad. Don't race on them, don't sprint drive on them.

I run xp12/xp10 also. Even on the street. One stop will throw you through the window.

One more bar to go to the rear towers and it's ready for pic up and paint!

Thanks.

Tuning is done for now.

Some sound

j

Side exit all done and gas tank.

ok finally got the tank back. starting painting tomorrow as i got home late. plan is rustoleum rubber undercoat paint. heres some pics...

ok first pic shows where we mounted the drivers side level sensor. as you can see it floats up opposite of the main fuel pump sensor so they wont hit each other.

next two pics is the bracket i talked him into making. the drivers level sensor was cut off and two nuts and bolts were used to hold it to the bracket welded to the top of the tank.

inside tank.

outside tank

and last the connector that lets you bring wires out of the tank and clamps it all together for a seal.

Side exit...

So what we did was cut a 4" hole through the frame rail. As this will weaken the frame what Jon did was take a thick thick thick piece of SS sheet steel and roll it into a perfect tube and weld the seam. Then he remeved the wide body and side skirt and welded the 4" tube to both sides of the frame rail all around. On the inside he then used some plate steel to solidly strengthen that even more.

Next he built the CBE. First i used the Motordyne XYZ pipe that ends in 3". We used his V band clamp and welded that to the XYZ pipe and to a 18" long inline res. then it has 90ish degree bend to another inline res but this one instead of a bottle type is Vibrants ultra quiet straight through res. its really just a bigger oval res vs a smaller perfect circle res. then he used another flex coupler. Now i know the xyz pipe has 2 flex already but the reason he used a 3" flex right before it goes through the frame is because that section is solidly bolted to the frame rail. Reason he did that is we didnt want a 3" pipe banging inside a 4" pipe. The last bit of 3" pipe going through the frame through the 4" pipe has a 600 degree silicone coupler around it and DEI titanium wrap around it filling the 1/2" gap solidly. The exhaust tip if you will is solid and going no where!! Now to remove he used a band strap on the ultra quiet res to the flex coulper and of course remove the v band up front.

Thoughts?? Its amazing!! The craftsmanship is A+!! The sound is 100% different than what i had but its good! Loud loud loud on start up but quiet during idle. Highway sounded good with little to zero drone and rasp is zero! Its very very deep and throaty! On start up it reminded me of a exhaust cutout but not while driving.

Cant wait to be tuned!! Car had a lot deleted and all new cai, new injectors, fuel etc so no WOT yet! Tune to come!!

Another look at the cbe underneath

All done

It's not done yet, all the self tapping screws will be replaced with rivets holding the fins on. Also going to paint it black with the tips of the fins painted red.

Also cut the fins back 5.5" as it was to low and now I have 2.75" clearance just like my front spitter.

There's a diff cooler under there with a cage I built thats bolted to the underside of the car at the same angle, there's 4 self tapping screws to that. Then I have 4 brackets with 1x1/8" plate holding the back end and sides up which is bolted to the rear crash bar and the side body of the car. Then I have a bunch of self tappers into the bumper and stuff holding it all down snug.

Both sides done. I've decided not to use the same material to cover the center section. I'm going to try and save weight. I used the dibond for the sides for strength as they stick out pretty far but the center will be just thin aluminium. I also did access holes for my jacks and I'll be using the same thin aluminium to make removable plates for these holes. Last I had some black vinyl around so I wrapped the sides to blend into the side skirts.

Little update...

Next 2 feet are done bringing me back passed the front tires. Also finished up one side blade that runs all the way back to the rear tire. Now just gotta copy this piece to the passenger side and install a center section.

Sadly the W brace hangs lower than anything. If I installed the panels to the brace the flat bottom wouldn't be flat. Instead of tapering up going back it'd actually taper down which would make the bottom 100% want to take off like a airplane and that wouldn't be good. So everything will be flat down there but the W brace. It'll just have to stick out some.

Well heres 15.2* and 8 fins then! Centers 10", next 2 are like 5.375", and outer 4 a like 7 something. Just something i picked. All are 100% parallel with each other so we'll go full scale with alumilite and test with string i guess.

Its begun. Time for a flat bottomed car and a rear diffusor.

So far the car has a front splitter that goes back about 4 feet covering where the old shield used to be. Now ive got another 2 feet about to go on with this template i made (just need matterial i wanna use). The rest of the way back should be pretty simple cutting out spots like where the exhuast flanges hang a little low and going out far past the side skirts for some side splitter action.

Now onto the rear diffusor. Im still not sure what to do but this is what i have so far. The diff cooler bracket i made to catch air under the car and force it up into the cooler has what seems to be a 15.2* up angle. A 458 i tested had a 17* up angle but ive also seen flat diffusors. Guess this is as good as its gonna get without a wind tunnel. Now on a rainy day on the highway a huge rooster tail can tell a lot about a diffusor. Im also not sure how many fins to use or if they should be straight or taper out like ive seen after the center 2 like this / | | \.

What i did since the car was up in the air, i ran a string from the front to the back touching points of the car. This insured the flat bottom will be flat and that the fins are parallel to the ground. So far ive made 2 fins that are 10" apart. I dont know if ill have 4, 6, or 8. These 2 are straight as a arrow.

Any thoughts from here????

Update today...

Engine----

OBX LTH with DEI titanium wrap

Motordyne XYZ Y pipe with DEI titanium wrap

Custom single 3" side exit exhaust, 1- 18" bottle res, 1 ultra quiet res

Stillen gen 3 CAI with DEI gold wrap

My dual AOS setup

My PnP TB, upper and lower manifolds

My 48 row oil cooler

CJ motorsports large baffled oil pan

Venting valve vents to atmos

Gas tank cut in half for fuel starve fix

Gas tank vent line with Boyd rollover vent/check valve

Redline 5w30 oil

3qt accusump system

Tuned by Crucial Performance

Drive----

My rear 25 row diff cooler/Tilton pump with temp gauge

SPL solid diff bushings

Drop Eng. poly tranny mount

Redline diff fluid

Redline tranny fluid

Suspension----

Stance 2 way true type coilovers 18k/12k

SPL toe links

SPL traction arms

SPL rear chamber arms

Hotckins front sway bar

Rear sway bar deleted

SPL camber arms front

SPL rear knuckle bushings

SPL front end links

My rear eccentric lock out kit

Traction and yaw kill switch

Brakes-----

Z1 SS brake lines

Front brake cooling ducts

Rear brake cooling ducts

Rbf600 fluid

Z1 2 piece rear rotors

Z1 2 piece front rotors

Carbotech XP12 front pads and XP10 rear pads

ABS system delete with Wilwood proportional valve

Aero----

My Front splitter

My Canards

My complete flat bottom

My rear diffuser

My front vender vents

APR 71" GT-250 wing chassis mounted

Wheels/tires

RPF-1 18x10.5 +15 square

RS-3's 285/35/18 square

45mm rear spacer with 10.9 hardware

3" ARP extended rear wheel studs

Safety

OMP fiberglass FIA halo seat.

OMP 6 point FIA belt with 2" shoulder straps for Hans device.

Hans III device.

OMP belt with 8.8 ring hardware

10.9 hardware holding seat to raisers and base.

Planted FIA steel base

Planted FIA aluminium raisers.

FIA 1.75" roll cage

Misc.

Rear wide body fenders

Deka 11lbs battery

3 quart washer bottle in trunk

Full car air bag system delete

All non essential wires deleted throughout

Vinyl wrapped

AC system deleted along with two pulleys

ABS system deleted

Coming soon

Pneumatic air lift jack system

SPL front impact bushings

SPL front lower arm bushings

SPL rear upper arm bushings

LSD

Engine mounts

Slicks

They have awesome service and delivery times although the bushes in their adjustable arms are terrible. Mine failed an mot with excessive play the week after they were fitted. My mate got them for his z and my other mate got a full set for his s13 and all of them have failed within a month. Stay away from their arms

sounds like you need SPL. all my arms, bushings etc are all SPL and spherical

Road race?

 

road racing is common in the states, pikes peak is a road race

now maybe since they 100% paved it haha. id almost call it rally from before since it was mostly dirt.

time attacks, track days, etc. tracks like mid ohio, vir etc. for you guys if you dont know those then silverstone that you have in the UK.

Thanks guys!! I'll buy with confidence! Going on this little guy with moonbeam rear fender flares

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/85041-2013-370z-sport-track-build/page__st__60#entry1543308

All evap removed...

Rear brake duct cooling lines installed.