Toby85

Just a note - iPhone SE is great value. Flagship spec for £359! I've upgraded from my iPhone 5 to one, I don't like the new breed of massive phones. Using my full phone screen with 1 hand is a luxury I won't be without!

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Hi all,

As title - any good used part, not after a brand new one as I'm using it just to eliminate mine being the issue so a used working one is perfect!

Thanks,

Toby

I fitted one, not plug and play. Once you have the adaptors and facia, and maybe cut and splice the harness adaptor wires as the outputs from the replacement HU are really low in comparison to the originals, then I had the headlining down to run the mic wire, centre console out, transmission tunnel out to route phone, Usb, handbrake splice and cable to antenna which I ran on to the rear shelf so also removed sub and some rear panelling. It's a pain!

Hi,

As title - standard back box and working crank position sensor required please!

I'm based midlands (DE11), happy to collect if reasonably local.

Thanks!

Toby

Have you fitted the pioneer sph-da120 and used the wiring mod? Not got round to fitting mine yet, all kinds of issues with sellers of the adaptors etc!

I don't know if there's a guideline on chain wear as Nissan say it lasts the life of the engine, which is a little vague. And wrong. Id say it's a common sense thing in the eyes of a competent mechanic/engineer, although I don't think one would fail spectacularly before throwing DTCs. The wear in a chain happens on the pivots, they don't 'stretch' as such, and in my line of work 3% is the limit of stretch as a percentage of the original length.

Il do mine this summer but I find it frustrating trying to source reasonably priced parts in the UK. Importing a kit from America seems by far the cheapest option for my old hack, if it was a low mileage minter I'd be more tempted to look at nissan parts.

I'm on 211,000 miles. Reliable as ever although it's running a little rough intermittently, likely electrical faults somewhere - I'm working on it! Compression is still good, cam chain is on its last legs, clutch is original and fine!

Hi, do you still have the central cubby that sits above the stereo / under the central 3 gauges?

Thanks,

Toby

Another update - I drove it earlier and let it idle for ages, the idles eventually dropped to about 720 which, although still not within spec, is lower than usual and the ignition advance was closer to speak at between 9 - 12 degrees. This leads me to believe that the retarded timing is more a side affect of the idle speed being too high.

I then logged a run when the engine sounded sweet at just shy of 50mph in 6th which read about 34 degrees of advance. Putting my foot flat dropped to about 20 or below. After a little drive I heard the engine note change and it started playing up. I did the same test and got results almost identical, I don't think the ignition time is causing the rough running. The difference in how it runs is night and day, the ignition timing is impossible to detect a change.

The culprit, in my eyes, is still at large and affecting other things such as idle speed. Shame about the cam chain!

Lee,

You don't have a center console non-nav cubby do you? Getting rid of my bird view nav screen!

Thanks,

Toby

Thanks,

It is odd. When it's ok, it can be ok for a whole journey and performs strongly - I can push it through to the limiter at full throttle and it's perfectly happy! It's irrelevant of load, engine speed etc. Also worth noting its been ongoing for about 30,000 miles or so with no change!

If I do decide to replace the chain when the weather starts to warm and I can use the bike for work, where is a reputable place to buy from? Chain kits seem to be in abundance in America but finding one over here is a challenge!

Thanks

Toby

Hi,

Thanks for all responses. I finally got a spare 15 mins today so checked the cam chain. The tensioner protrusion I measured at 21mm, which I hear is a bad thing.

So, this raises some questions regarding the original issue. This may well be causing the retarded timing I'm seeing at idle but I can't see what the intermittency of the wierd sound / bogging under power is all about - if the chain is stretched, it's stretched so why would this issue come and go? And regardless of whether or not it's running roughly, the obd scanner always reports the timing the same so I still think there is something else at play here!

Bearing in mind the car is getting old and at 211000 miles, I don't think its worth replacing the cam chain if it doesn't solve the original issue, I need to be sure. I think I need someone with a consult-II. Anyone know anywhere good aroubd the midlands?

Thanks for the help so far.

Toby

Hi,

As title! Replacing my nav cubby with non nav as I am getting rid of the Bird view system so need a tidy complete non nav unit.

Thanks!

Toby

Hi,

Quick one - so now i've purchased a new CarPlay stereo with maps i no longer need the OE birdview screen so i plan to remove it and replace it with a cubby.

Do i need to replace the lid and cubby altogether or do i just need a cubby and retain my lid as i know the lids are different if you have no nav.

Just ordering bits to get the new HU fitted!

Thanks in advance,

Toby

Probably worth investing in a small soldering iron, easy to learn! And with electricals it's all just water in a pipe!

Getting my head round it now I think! How was the HU to use? I read a couple of reviews and liked the simplicity of it, and car play is a great idea. First time I've thought I a piece of tech is really worthwhile having in the car and it's cheap too! Got it for £330 with a lightning to usb adaptor from halfords in a deal! Going to get an apple digital AV adaptor which allows mirroring too through HDMI.

So - Need an adaptor and patch lead, facia, follow the link above for grounding, connect the remote switching for amp. Then, rather than connecting speakers through the adaptors RCA leads, cut them off and solder them to the HU ISO speaker cables. If I can be bothered I'll do a comprehensive how to as it takes a fair bit of research to figure it all out when it's actually reasonably straight forward!

Thanks!

So the blue/white flash cable from the new HU to ISO harness needs to be connected separately to a cable for the amp - which cable is this in the cars loom, does it not plug in with the rest of the cables in the loom adaptor?

As for the speaker outputs, using the phono /RCA outputs on the back of the unit for the individual front and rear left and right speaker gives a better signal level to the amp and I need to dig out these wires from the harness? I'll have a look for the thread you mentioned.

Thanks again

Hi,

So I've treated myself to a pioneer sph-da120 for my '04 UK GT Coupe and will be looking to fit this shortly. However, there are no two threads or guides with the same wiring methods!

I've read this thread (http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/55445-wiring-in-a-new-hu-this-guide-may-help/#entry1134771) and I understand I'll need an adaptor and patch lead as well as a facia adaptor, I will then follow the above guide.

However - this thread says nothing about other issues I've read regarding low signal or bose amp remote live. Can anyone clear up what needs to be done here?

Thanks in advance,

Toby

I've got some screenshots here of what my car is doing on warm idle.

Much look amiss here? Worth noting - when it's playing up, it's only audible from ~1250rpm, what changes here? Cam timing?

Hmm, still not convinced due to the on/off behaviour of the issue - but plausible. I will look at the tensioner protrusion at some point to see how far it's stretched.

Thanks

Ok thanks!

How long would the ecu need leaving unplugged for to reset? I unplugged it for 10 seconds or so which seemed to have no impact whatsoever!

Thanks

Thanks for all advice! Would love to sort this, want to do a track day next year! I'm going to try a good crank sensor.

I've tried the ecu reset using the peddle dance which reset the idle but this always reverts to idling too high. I'll try unplugging it for a bit though and report back.

Thanks again

I don't think so - no way it would behave so on/off intermittent as this! Be interesting to gauge wear mind.

Haha, I know. Goes to show, treat it carefully and it lasts!

I've considered next moves as crank sensor and throttle body. But - would this not throw a code? I cleaned the MAF at las service and OBD data looks ok. Thanks!