Supratad

Tis the X150, in Frost Blue

Out with the old

In with the new

I just checked out the XKEC. It looks like the club to go for, however it does require me to receive a quarterly called "Growler"

Might be tricky to explain that to the wife.

I thought I'd post this in here as I only joined in October when I bought the Z. It was a blast and much much better than the Supra, but sadly still not where I wanted to be.

Where I wanted to be was in a 4.2 litre Jag XK, and that's what I P/X'd the Z for last Friday.

Thanks for the warm welcome, and all the help and advice, and thanks to ZmanAlex for all the parts he sold me, sadly never got to change the side windows however.

The car's original plate was YR55 GOE so it might come back here with a new owner. If it does, don't tell him I dunked it in a river.

I tell you what though, Jag forums are useless. Every tech query is answered with "Take it to your dealer" What's the point of a forum if you're going to do that?

Anyway, cheers to all. Stay safe, but not necessarliy legal.

If you are sticking something on the underside of the pre-lifter thingy, as you are, how is this any different from the penny trick? Both make the spring compress a bit more.

The wires are clipped onto the underside of the seat, to the springs, and can be a bit tricky to unclip. Its not jsut a case of undoing the connectors. I found it easiest to undo the back bolts first, then slide the seat fully back, undo the fronts and bring it forward and tilt back so it could balance there while I struggled with the wire clips. Once you disconnect of course, you can't adjust the seat angle any more. Or disconnect battery first, as Leonk says

Search for the airbag reset procedure here also

I thought the point of DMFs was to smooth out vibrations from diesel engines. Why on earth put one in a 350Z?

Someone was jibeing me the other month about it having a Renault engine. I merely asked them to prove it. There was no response, but its amazing how a journalist's mistakes/lies can enter the public consciousness.

I think I need a third penny, as my one is still not clearing the lock every time.

I thought it was discussed and agreed that there is absolutely no way the boot can raise itself, with whoever's struts. The struts exert no upward force on the boot lid until you lift it halfway up at least, due to the angle they sit at.

Luckily his insurance paid out and within 48hours of the accident!!! I got to keep the car and the Twin Turbo lump and front mount intercooler is untouched!!!

 

Good Lord! In August last year, we got a slight nudge to the rear of the Jag, and we're STILL waiting for the other guy's insurers to cough up.

Who are you, and the Audi driver, with, cos I need to change insurers.

 

All down to liability. If liability is in your favour you can claim all your losses a lot quicker

Liability was in our favour, the car was parked when someone in a van reversed into it. The car only got repaired 2 months ago and my insurers are still chasing for payment from the other guys insurers. There's talk of court action now, insurer on insurer action.

 

Luckily his insurance paid out and within 48hours of the accident!!! I got to keep the car and the Twin Turbo lump and front mount intercooler is untouched!!!

Good Lord! In August last year, we got a slight nudge to the rear of the Jag, and we're STILL waiting for the other guy's insurers to cough up.

Who are you, and the Audi driver, with, cos I need to change insurers.

Kate Bush - Lionheart

I had no idea it can be adjusted. I'll fettle on the weekend.

Having tried the several pennies trick, I found the pre load was causing a wind noise to be heard from the slightly ajar boot lid, so I removed them all.

Its difficult to find rear spec, but I think it was about 84 Nm, or 62 ft lbs.

I've got a nagging concern now, so as you say, Zmanalex will soothe me.

I've just finished this job over the weekend, but I forgot the rear caliper bolts have a lower torque setting than the fronts, so I tried to get 152Nm on all 4 rear bolts. I couldn't pull hard enough to get the torque wrench to click at 152, so I reckon I've put about 120Nm onto them, which is way too much.

Does anyone sell the bolts, as I feel I should replace them for new,

THe water was no higher than the cills when I flooded my engine. The floorpan was full of water and it does not drain out again. I would strongly advise against, based solely on that.

Thanks for answering.

Do you mean, to prevent someone putting the back wheels on the front, or putting the wheel on so the inside faces out?

Today, I've had my discs skimmed and received new pads and shims from Alex, but what is the little stud for on my Brembo discs?

And..... there is only one on the O/S disc, and just a threaded hole on the N/S disc, surely both sides should have one, shouldn't they?

Aaaand....is there a previous thread on drum brake handbrake setup, re the barrel adjuster?

You may find the caliper bolts are a tad tight.... breaker bar or something of the kind may be required

A "tad"? "Tad"??

450Nm of hammer action for some considerable time freed three of the four front bolts, the last had to be broken by breaker bar plus scaffold pole. I've still not got the NS rear caliper off yet, as I was getting tired by 7:30pm and couldn't work any more. They've been soaked in penetrant spray overnight.

Pine is a softwood. You could use it but you'd have to make sure the load was going across the grain, not in line with it. So the weight crushing the fibres, not forcing them apart.

I had this problem on the Supra and ended up crushing the crimped rail in ignorance. I now have a large piece of angle iron to use with a trolley jack, but hockey pucks on the axle stands seems a good idea, as long as there's no risk of them slipping off.

Just for info. The fuel is stored in separate underground tanks. Usually a big one for UL, the same for the oily muck, and then another tank for Super/V-power with a special compartment for future use / odd fuel trials that may come and go.

Given that its the delivery drivers job to get it right, I doubt he/she would be employed for long if they couldn't get the right fuel in the right tank on delivery.

Also, the pipes run uphill to the pumps, and there is no "pressure" in the system. The fuel pumps lift the fuel and if cut off, the fuel runs back down into the tanks. Therefore, if you drive your car into the pumps and smash them off, like in a movie, petrol will not spray everywhere while you walk away flicking a lit cigarette butt in slo-mo.

I noticed, when switching off the car, if I don't push the clutch in, it makes a real "tractor" sound as it chugs to a halt in a second or 2. With clutch disengaged, it sounds like any other engine. Is this anything to do with old oils in the gearbox?

Rarrrgh!

My advice is to get the belts from zmanalex then you know youve got good belts and a good price and change them yourself as its such a simple job and takes under an hour allowing time to jack up and remove underguards etc..in any case you'll have to check tighten/adjust them after a 100 or so miles so might as well save yourself....

I think you mean Aux belts here. We were talking about cambelt and lack thereof.