Seany boy

This ... Is... Epic !!! I'll be watching this thread , can't believe I've only just seen it !

Already fitted

New crank sensor

New LH cam sensor

New RH cam sensor

Ecu

Wiring harness

Ecu is coded as is the key (light goes off the dash etc)

Also had alsorts of code readers on it and they all say it's clear , to check I unplug a sensor and it brings the fault up

Hey guys , long story short....

Iv got a 55 plate DE zed, after a rebuild I ran I to electrical problems and the car wouldn't spark and the injectors wouldn't open...

After a lot of testing / checking / changing parts she runs but only if the Crank Position Sensor is unplugged...

With it plugged in the car cranks strong but won't muster fuel or a spark

Any ideas where I should be looking next ?

Another zed with BMW shoes, looks nice buddy

Another contrasting pic to show antisocial fitment

Love them in the dark colour tho

Just seen your post D95gas, il look into that , cheers buddy

Lol I might try and convince somebody with a trailer to drag it down. I don't know anybody in the north east with any clue what there doing with this kind if car. They all just erase fault codes and fit disks and pads.

Anybody recommend any tuners , even just the north will do, SlideMotorsport offered but it's £200 just to get the car to them in Leeds

Yeah... I'm in Newcastle so il never get it there

Where's are you based Keyser? Seem highly recommended

I really don't want to have to sell or break the car, I love it, it's just getting expensive and I'm getting nowhere

Rebuilt my a friend who's a master tech.

Car started/was run up for a few hours without fault, as soon as it went over 3k the eml would come on,turned out bank 1 was 1 tooth out of time. Re-timed it and now it has no spark or fuel. Checked and changed ecu and still nothing. It had the live but no pulse.

Anybody that wants to have a look help yourself lol

So my car STILL is t working. After a full rebuild nissan can't find why there's no fuel or spark, ad iv run out of money so it has to go.

Just weighing up weather I'm better selling if with the fancy bits /break the while car /return to standard and sell. Either way it has to go.

Il put a full spec up soon so you guys can help me decide what's best

Alex is sorting this , can a mod please delete this ?

Basically I need a used ecu , here's mine so need one with the same part number

Cheers guys. I don't know any decent zed garages in the north east unfortunately so Nissan was my best bet.

Luckily my friend works there so I get a discounted hourly rate and he'll keep a eye on it. He text me this today , apologise for the bad English, copied and pasted lol

"Ecu not being earthed which is causing the ecm relay to not supply a live to coils so gonna have a look at possible ecm failure r completely bypassing it and putting an earth and ignition live after the relay but hopfully be monday latest mate"

Make sense ?

So it's all back together, heads on, timed up etc.

car started and ran / idled lovely .... Then I drove it to the petrol station 1 mile away and it was Ok, kangaroo'd once it twice but pretty civilised. Driving back from the petrol station and the car was kangaroo'ing like mad. Pulled back into the garage , came up with a fault code on bank 2 Cam Sensor. Bought a new one. Replaced it, exactly the same ! Nissan advised me that my idea of bank 2 was there bank one (I say bank 2 is #2-4-6, they say bank 2 is #1-3-5?). Anyway, bought the sensor for bank 1 and still kangaroo'ing and would idle stable.

Stripped it apart and the retard who timed it after refitting the heads had got it 1 tooth out ?!?! Luckily nothing was damaged so it went back together with the correct timing aaaaand....

Cranks much smoother and more rhythmic... But lost spark AND fuel again ?!?! WTF

Checked every plug / earth and there fine, no fault codes so the Cam Sensor fault I was getting was down to bank 2 signal not reading what it should be in relation to the Crank and bank 1.

Took it to Nissan today, they have no idea. It's getting a ignition signal but won't try as fire, not imobiliser either. So iv left the car with them. Any advice will go a long way tho guys so feel free to jump in

As above , mainly bank2 but if you have both il have both. Needed ASAP so as close to Newcastle Upon Tyne as possible, happy to travel to collect

Pulleys both matched exactly with timing marks / dowel pins.

Took the heads to be pressure tested and have the valves re ground and lapped. All done and back together aaaaand.....

It cranks/tries to fire but won't ? Totally lost, few people have said that because is a fresh build it will be tight and struggle to start, also that the fuel rail will be empty but I assumed after the 1st turn of the key , when it primes and pressurises it would fill it? Regardless it splutters like its going to start but just won't

Triple checked timing aswel and seems fine ?

Iv got the mechanics busy stripping it down now to remove the vvt pulleys off both banks to see if there's any obvious signs of how they should sit on the actual toothed gear. It's the only answer I can come up with

It's timed correctly according to the timing marks but all I can think is if the Vvt sprocket isn't back I'm correctly then the marks for that cam could be out by 90'/180'/270' since it can only bolt on 1 of 4 ways. Just don't understand how 1 cylinder on that bank could still make 150psi and the other 2 50psi.

Ref the timing , I let x2 master techs time it up for me, it confuses the crap out of me lol

Brand new rings , no smell off oil , just petrol since the plugs are soaked in it.

Could the vvt sprocket have been put back together in the wrong way at all? Can't understand why #1 still makes 150psi and 3/5 make 50? Oil is clean / waters clean so don't think it's head gasket. No leaks either

Compression test results..

1-150psi

2-150psi

3-50psi

4-150psi

5-50psi

6-150psi

What the hell ?!?!

Yeh checked tdc on #1 before attacking the fly.

So I have a spark and file again (earth issues,cheers guys) cars Trying to start but still won't. Done a compression test and we have a new problem ....

Left bank is 100% perfect if not better,

Right bank... Low. Not sure how low but 1-3-5 are are equally as low. He thinks the VVT sprocket might e to blame?

Basically when it got stripped to be rebuilt the apprentice took the 4 bolts out the vvt instead of the centre bolt. Thinking he may have put it back together incorrectly , would this affect compression / running ?

When it 1st cranked and wouldn't fire we blamed lack of fuel, so I put 10litres in and it eventually fired.

Once I had it running I kept it at 2k then as I let the revs drop it died and wouldn't fire again.

The following day it fired 1st time but wouldn't idle, wouldn't fire again after this.

I checked the plugs and they were soaked in petrol, after cleaning them I checked every plug and they all sparked, then every coil pack with the same results so definitely had petrol/spark.

After head scratching decided the fly was out of time and as a result the engine was fuelling at the wrong time so was soaking the plugs.

After changing the flys position I have lost spark an fuel.

Don't know if there's a earth for the ecu that lives on the box but il check all earths / plugs after work

Where am I looking specifically for these grounds ? I know about the one on the front cover and il sand the paint off it for a better earth, any others ? Like say everything else works, just won't run

Reconnection -

With a rebuilt block fitted exhaust/engine mounts/water pipes/main harness/ancillaries/fitted engine into the car/plugged harness into passenger footwell/connected plugs in the bay/water pipes/earths.

Ref the earth iv tried running a jump cable fr the block to the body as a earth and made no diff

Ref the maf. It was never removed from the pipe, took filter off with it attached and it sat in the boot for 3 months lol

Ref the battery being unplugged, yeh iv disconnected it 4x since, even tried the reset method (disconnect and touch the cars + - wires together for 30 seconds to discharge everything)

Il try the earths tomorrow / unplug and replug all plugs. It's such a headache tho ! Currently abandoned looking like this ,

I had no fault codes so to check the ecu was actually working unplugged the crank sensor and it came on straight away with the fault.

Brand new plugs aswel but I tested the plugs / cool packs (all of them) this morning when I was still getting a spark