MaDMaXX

Hmm, pre-owned, huh, what kind of price are we talking?

Mine isn't perfect, but it's close for now. I found using the resistance that you can tell which one you need.

Yeah, basically, my tuner said they make a difference to tuning so i added one before starting my tune.

I've got the new seals, going to hit this fix tomorrow

The contact cleaner was £3 I think so it's not special. Any car shop or DIY place should sell it.

Yeah, it's finding it here, most people look at you with an honest-to-God blank look on their face, including the place i found it at!

Rubbing alchohol would work but contact cleaner is more effective, about 8 bucks from lowes.

Oh, that's not the problem, though the torque this particular engine produces is impressive.

The point i'm making is that your'e cruising just below 1500 rpm....

Check it anyway, i found good results.

Has anyone tried driving for a tank at the recommended change speeds in the manual?

They're crazy low, 33mph in 6th, suggest 2.5k changes.

Anyway, my mpg goes up considerably, even though driving this way and revving this low, goes against all i know about engines.

Keep 'em dry and you can re-use the old ones, that's my plan, anyway.

In the US, it seems to be a general fault, and as i said, there seems to be more cases of it here. Of course that could be down to a number of things, more Z's here, more vocal people here etc etc.

Anyway, no one seems to know about the cause, just that it's dirt on the sensors, perhaps fuel related, perhaps even ethanol in the fuel related, which is way more prevalent in the states and has been for years.

Yeah, the only thing i could pull up online, was about the gasses they give off, automotive don't harm sensors etc whereas standard bathroom sealant can do.

I ended up grabbing some gasket maker and it worked a charm.

Yeah, might be a project for next weekend perhaps, it's bugging me, but this weekend is Motordyne ART pipes and the XYZ pipe

I really appreciate you making this guide, this problem has plagued the states cars for years it seems, there is a guide over here, but it's not quite as good as yours

I think it's possibly the sulphur content in the fuel, it's really crap over here compared to the UK, either way, it's a sucky fault, manifests itself in various ways, but it's all the same thing.

Ironically, mine is an '04 as well, really needs this doing, once it gets to a quarter tank, it drops like a stone, but then will recover and do the same thing over the course of the next few days driving until i really don't know how much is left in the tank

How does bathroom sealant do instead of the RTV?

Don't forget the pop charger alters the intake noise, not the exhaust. And i agree, an intact stock system is very very muted.

Excellent, and you're right, the 350z needs something like this to make it sound like a real sports car

Every time i see that video i cringe Don't care how warm it is, they step on it the moment it starts

Octane boosters are usually bollocks. They don't end up boosting it by the amount they show.

Erm, this is all dependant on which way the anti foulers point!?!?! if you put them on pointing down, of course they'll hit the ground

Have you seen japspeed decats??

 

What your talking about is drilling new holes for the decats, not putting them onto the factory fitted sensor holes.

 

I'm talking from experience on this.

 

If you drill new holes then you can put then wherever you want.

I have not seen the japspeed ones, i'm fitting ART pipes, but that's just dumb IMO, oh well, not everyone designs things properly i guess. Assuming there is no way to turn them? perhaps using a lock nut?

Erm, this is all dependant on which way the anti foulers point!?!?! if you put them on pointing down, of course they'll hit the ground

Sensor bungs, or anti foulers, are there to hold the sensor out of the main exhaust stream, hopefully far enough that they don't sense the gasses enough that they think you've got a cat problem and turn on the CEL.

No company worth their salt design them to hang down, so don't worry about that.

Other than that, the only other problem with test pipes/de-cats, is that on the 350, at least, they introduce rasp, which most people don't like. Silenced or resonated de-cats help to remove this.

Just had a look @ a stock catalyst from a DE car and yes there are 2 matrix's within the cat pipe , the rear 02 sensor is actually in between the 2 matrix's and the front matrix looks fa rmore dense than the rear matrix.

That sounds so restricted, you weren't kidding when you said they're the most restricted part of the 350 exhaust.

That's what i thought, Mark. But a tuner over here has assured me that there is a small cat in the first length of the pipe, and the main cat after the slight bend. Two different material types, one for immediate reaction with expensive material in it, and the normal stuff in the main cat.

And whilst we're at it, what are peoples thoughts on the Fujitsubo Legalis R? I've heard it's quieter than stock

It's amazing how close my emissions were to a vauxhall vectra when i was last in a UK garage getting tested.....

Anyway, yeah, the high flow/sports stuff, does need a good run to get them heated up, cats run hot when they're fully working, very hot. But high flows have far less stuff in them, when starting from cold, they take much longer for the reaction to get to full efficiency.

The 350 and 370 apparently have pre cats to help with the cold starts, they're very expensive and fancy setups stock.

Interested in the work and sound you get.

If you just get some pipes modded from the mid pipe to some exits, it does sound pretty good.

Don't have straight pipes fitted inside the back box though, i just did that and it's boom city i'm afraid

91 ron isn't correct, it's 91 AKI (Anti knock Index) which is the american rating.

My manual (American) states the use of 91 AKI fuel or higher, this translates to 96 RON (Research Octane Number) Hence why the UK says to use super unleaded (normally at 97 RON)